suzuki oil

[chain]

Anyone read that stuff?

I think I've read every piece there is to read on motor oil and the debate will never cease. Virtually e-folklore now, cannon fodder for all the motorcycle discussion boards. It's like talking about chain lube. There isn't a "best" - only folks' preferences.

Plain jane dino oil, so long as it meets service grade and viscosity index as prescribed by the OM, will serve most folks just fine. The compulsive changers, racers, special app guys (say, built motors, turbos, etc) and LDR types who extend change intervals might be better served by one of the super-premium full syns, but who really knows for sure.

Day-in, day-out riding, touring, garden variety street flogging, perhaps a trackday once in awhile? I think the last thing you need to worry yourself over is what sort of oil you've got splashing around inside the cases. There simply aren't oil related engine failures to point to as proof one oil should be avoided and another should be embraced.

[Johnnycheese]

I use Dino oil ONLY!!!! just not the black mud that Suzuki oil is

[DAB]

I thought the issue with full synthetic oils was that the "wet" clutch in the 'Busa doesn't like it?

[Revlis]

NAH, Wet Clutch Fugs regular Motor Oils in a huge way... High SHEER..Shear? anyway rough on oil. So, Synthetic is better because of it's ability to tolerate high heat, high stress much better than Dino... Thus you can run a premium Synthetic for a good 4-5K miles anyway between changes without problem... SO Synth is sort of a no brainer...

Then again you could do what JC does, change your DINO every weekend or so and you will prolly never have an issue...

[chain]

Rev, the issue relative to a motorcycle's wet clutch has nothing to do with whether you're using dino or full syn, but rather the energy conserving additive package that is common in automobile specific oils.

Regardless of whether you choose dino or syn for your bike, make sure the bottom half of the service grade seal is empty, that is to say, the oil's not labeled "energy conserving" - and you'll have no problem relative to clutch slippage.

I've run both dino and syn oils in various bikes I've owned over the years and I've never experienced any sort of ill effect from the dino stuff.

FWIW

[DAB]

Regardless of whether you choose dino or syn for your bike, make sure the bottom half of the service grade seal is empty, that is to say, the oil's not labeled "energy conserving" - and you'll have no problem relative to clutch slippage.

Thanks for the info.

[Charlesbusa]

Just wanted to throw in my 2 cents....

The main reason to change your oil is because its dirty. Oil's lubricating properties last a long time, changing is done to keep it and your motor clean.

Something to consider if your just an average joe rider, not MR. NOS/Turbo!!

[babuski]

So Johnny Cheese.....what kind of Dino do you use?

[Johnnycheese]

Kendall racing or Belray 10/40. and if I am chaning every weekend I use GTX

[bacharles]

Kendall racing or Belray 10/40. and if I am chaning every weekend I use GTX

[bacharles]

Kendall racing or Belray 10/40. and if I am chaning every weekend I use GTX

BTW, are we still arguing this issue?

Honestly, this one should have died a couple days ago. This is one of those "Owner's Choice" deals sooooooo......

[1badasbusa]

Ya I had the dealer tell me the same thing about oil. At most I could use a semi synthetic. I trailered my bike home and drained there stuff out and put some AMSOIL 10w-40 in it. Works good I noticed a differance from there semi stuff that I started with. I pobably would of noticed a differance with any good full synthetic though.I had to trailer it cause I was a one man show that day and I wasn't going to walk to the shop.


http://www.puresynthetics.com

[TorontoBusa]

Rev, the issue relative to a motorcycle's wet clutch has nothing to do with whether you're using dino or full syn, but rather the energy conserving additive package that is common in automobile specific oils.

Regardless of whether you choose dino or syn for your bike, make sure the bottom half of the service grade seal is empty, that is to say, the oil's not labeled "energy conserving" - and you'll have no problem relative to clutch slippage.

I've run both dino and syn oils in various bikes I've owned over the years and I've never experienced any sort of ill effect from the dino stuff.

FWIW

Is Mobil 1 or Castrol Sytex O.K.?? (didn't check yet for the "energy conserving")

What grade synthetic do you use?

In my car I add molyslip (molidium disulphate, I think, sort of like pencil lead, really slippery stuff) but don't think that would be good for the clutch??

[rightguard]

Synthetic is without a doubt the way to go,besides it has improved lubrication,longer sustained viscosity and better shear resistance.Its only a few dollars more per quart and is cheap insurance.The cheaper pure dino oils lose up to 30% of thier viscosity within 900 miles of use.So unless you start with gear oil,they are a waste of turning the drain bolt. I'm partial to mobil 1 but thats just because it makes my aircooled CB1100F run cooler by about 40 degrees than the others ive tried. hehe yeah ,please forgive me for owning that bike,but im not gonna put 50 miles a day on a gsxr1300. plus im veryyyy lazy and the honda is shim OVER bucket and makes valve adjustments a 1 hour job.



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