New Suzuki branded synthetic oil

mountainmotor

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The regular 10w-40 mineral oil is very well built with a nice additive package . Hoping maybe the new 10w-40 and 15w-50 synthetics turn out to be sleeper oils as well . I will find out who actually makes it for them and get a sample sent off to the lab for a look-see at the add pack ASAP .

Looks like just a little over 5 bucks per will buy it and it's possible the oil filters will now come with nitrile anti-drain back valves instead of silicone ... time will tell .

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Suzuki 15w-50 synthetic
 
I'm interested in seeing how it compares with some of the other stuff.

Whose filters do you like for the Busa?
 
Whoooa .
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Did some googling and....

This could be relabeled Motul 5100 .

I'll find out for sure very soon but if so , whatta deal
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(Professor @ Oct. 29 2006,17:57) Whose filters do you like for the Busa?
I use the Purolater ML16818 . It's a nice one .


Burst: 310 psi
Center Tube collapse: 240 psi
Micron Rating: 20
Single Pass Efficiency: 93.6%
Relief Valve opening pressure: 9-11 psi
Anti Drainback valve material: nitrile rubber
Media material: cellulose
 
Went do get some oil for the vette. Yikes! they wanted 7.50 a qt for mobile 1 full synthetic.:(
 
I must say that I find it interesting that Suzuki now has full synthetic.  This after they specify (at the stealership) Suzuki says NO to full synthetic since it wilkl make the clutch slip.  (Not a lie, I was told this by a shop manager.)

Interesting.


Same crap the Harley dealers put out for years!
 
(mountainmotor @ Oct. 29 2006,14:58) Whoooa .
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Did some googling and....

This could be relabeled Motul 5100 .

I'll find out for sure very soon but if so , whatta deal  
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Is the Motul 5100 a POA/Ester Group IV/V based synthetic? I don't see how Suzuki could rebrand it for that price.
 
Yes , the 5100 is a primary PAO , secondary ester formula .

Buying in very large quantities and large mark up . Make that huge mark up . Then take the middle man out, oil gets lower cost . Example is Parts ********* can sell Motul E-Tech 100 " pao/ester " for 5.10 per but then a dealer marks it up and all the sudden 8 bucks per . Parts **** made some bucks off the dealer .

Both the Kawasaki oils , mineral 10w-40--20w-50 and 10w-40 synthetic are made by Motul . Best deal I could get on the synthetic was 6.20 per " relabeled E-Tech 100 "

Walmart marks their oil up 100% , so I'm told .

More and more , the factories are concerned or trying to get owners back to the dealers for service after the sale and offering lower priced oil could help there and more factories are getting tied in with major oil companies and printing need to use those oil in the owners manual . Mobil has many ties in the auto industry to include Honda and their bike oils , Castrol has BMW and VW , Ducati with Shell and the latest I could find shows Suzuki auto's in europe promoting use of Motul .

It could be this oil comes from SOPUS products " Shell " and if so , it would be a fake group III synthetic selling at real synlube pricing unless a new formula was developed for Suzuki that is .

If I had to wager , I'd wager it's Motul at this point . I will find out soon .
 
(mountainmotor @ Oct. 30 2006,09:27) If I had to wager , I'd wager it's Motul at this point . I will find out soon .
It's a good thing I didn't  
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It's made by Specialty Oil , Houston TX . They are owned by Pennzoil Quaker State and make many lubes to include the current Walmart Supertech synthetic in which is currently a real one " pao " .

I will pick up a quart today and send a sample off if the MSDS shows it's primarily comprised of 1-Decene Homopolymer or has the CAS number noting same .
 
Guys Should I not use synthetic because of the clutches? I know Mobil 1 is Great stuff but sometimes it cn be too good and get past the seals( leak leak).
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PS sorry to be a Hog on the site But I was wondering what anyone thinks about additives like Lucas or Prolong in their bikes?
 
(newmill @ Oct. 29 2006,16:54) Standing by...MX4T is now $9 a quart  
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I can get the MXT4 Mobil 10W40 synthetic at UDF (United Dairy Farmers) at $6.99 a qt. I live in Ohio, and the UDF stations sell Mobil fuel. Cheapest I've found.
 
I'd leave those additives on the store shelves , bike or automobile engine .

Synthetics don't cause leaks and never have . Just an old rumor dating back to the 70's when Mobil 1 was a 20wt at running temp and used in old domestic engine with heavy crank end play and silicone seals in dynamic operation along with cork oil pan gaskets in static mode. True PAO/Ester synlubes can actually help soften old brittle front and rear main seals in older auto engines along with offering "some" cleaning effect . Mineral oil formulas and additive packs of them carry other additives to help maintain seals

For many years though , seal makers have been using both nitrile and buena-n material for use in modern engines and synthetic engine oil formulas have zero negative effect on those types .
 
Guys, I just got a 06 limited
Now have 250 miles on it and looking at first maint. at 600.
I have had great luck with mobil1 15-50 in my Auto and Boat.
Can the busa use the STD Mobil1 15-50 or 10-40 and is it recomended?
I also am thinking of doing an oil change at 400 just to be safe
whatcha think?
 
502SCS,


I think Suzuki recommends 10w-40 and maybe some 10w-50's but most of them to include the Amsoil and Mobil 10w-40 synthetic shears down to a high 30wt in as little as 2k miles . Using 15w-50 synthetics makes for less shear and better shifting over the course of the oil interval .

I  don't subscribe to the theory/rumors of waiting X amount of miles until using synthetic in these bike engines using nikasil bores . I have filled with fresh engine builds and with as little as 200 miles on stock engines without creating oil burners many times now .

I also don't subscribe to that Motomans method of break-in because in the nikasil bores theres not as much of the high honing ledges that can lay over if not scrubbed off which can cause glazing vs iron bores and honing of days past .

Got off topic there but was on my mind  
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The dealer up here has had it most of the summer. I've used a cs. & 1/2 with no problems. Shifting seems to be alittle louder but I also got those Helibars off. I think I'm hearing more engine all the way around not being so up right.
 
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