QS and oil

[Claude J. Greengrass]

Hello,

My gen3 busa has already 5600 km and I usually spend around four hours per week doing u-turn drills at 1st gear of course.
The picture below of the engine oil window was taken just in the middle of my exercise with the bike very slightly bent to the right, to lean on some fixed obstacle with side-stand stretched out of course ;-)

The first maintenance was properly done at about 1200 km, if not mistaken.
Now, is the oil too dark? ... meaning need to change asap?
Another question concerns quick shifting: it frequently blinks when operating the clutch to change gears down (approaching lights and so on).
Ignore it or does it mean something?


thank you for your time

 

[Bumblebee]

Hello,

My gen3 busa has already 5600 km and I usually spend around four hours per week doing u-turn drills at 1st gear of course.
The picture below of the engine oil window was taken just in the middle of my exercise with the bike very slightly bent to the right, to lean on some fixed obstacle with side-stand stretched out of course ;-)

View attachment 1680252
The first maintenance was properly done at about 1200 km, if not mistaken.
Now, is the oil too dark? ... meaning need to change asap?
Another question concerns quick shifting: it frequently blinks when operating the clutch to change gears down (approaching lights and so on).
Ignore it or does it mean something?


thank you for your time

The oil looks ok to me but is getting close to needing a change....when was the last oil change? Synthetic oils are pretty forgiving.

I switch between Royal Purple and Motul so depending on the brand of oil, mine looks almost black right after an oil change.

 

[Claude J. Greengrass]

The oil looks ok to me but is getting close to needing a change....when was the last oil change? Synthetic oils are pretty forgiving.

I switch between Royal Purple and Motul so depending on the brand of oil, mine looks almost black right after an oil change.

November 10th took place the first maintenance with Motul 7100. I also had a chat with the chief mechanic of my dealership claiming changing oil to his Kawasakis' every 6000 km and not 12000 km as requested by the factory.
So, I am inclined to not wait until 7000 km but schedule it earlier, say at 6000 km.

 

[sixpack577]

November 10th took place the first maintenance with Motul 7100. I also had a chat with the chief mechanic of my dealership claiming changing oil to his Kawasakis' every 6000 km and not 12000 km as requested by the factory.
So, I am inclined to not wait until 7000 km but schedule it earlier, say at 6000 km.

Other than the expense, there is no harm in changing the oil sooner than recommended, and I would agree that the newer and longer oil change intervals that many manufactures now have, are a little longer than most of us would prefer.
I would just change it at whatever mileage, or amount of time, that gives You the confidence that the oil is still in good condition...as you will get alot of opinions on what is too little or too much.

 

[WuzzaCBXRider]

The darkness of the oil especially in new engines with wet clutches is the result of the clutch fibers mixing in. I’ve changed the oil on mine every 5,000 miles and now over 80,000 miles later everything works as they should. Original clutch too.

 

[60+ Busa Rider]

My opinion is change mineral oil at 3000 miles and semi syn at 5000 miles and full syn at 7000 miles but I cut that in half for my own comfort.

Make sure you completely release any contact between your foot and shifter between gears.

 

[Spudley]

Full synthetic every 3500 miles. Oil filter every other. Cheap insurance.

 

[Claude J. Greengrass]

My opinion is change mineral oil at 3000 miles and semi syn at 5000 miles and full syn at 7000 miles but I cut that in half for my own comfort.

Make sure you completely release any contact between your foot and shifter between gears.

Thanks. I invariably buy fully synthetic oils and since I ride also in winter I wonder if it could be a wise idea to opt for a 5W40... (?)
Good idea about the foot, I'll see to it.

 

[Solyom]

Hello,

My gen3 busa has already 5600 km and I usually spend around four hours per week doing u-turn drills at 1st gear of course.
The picture below of the engine oil window was taken just in the middle of my exercise with the bike very slightly bent to the right, to lean on some fixed obstacle with side-stand stretched out of course ;-)

View attachment 1680252
The first maintenance was properly done at about 1200 km, if not mistaken.
Now, is the oil too dark? ... meaning need to change asap?
Another question concerns quick shifting: it frequently blinks when operating the clutch to change gears down (approaching lights and so on).
Ignore it or does it mean something?


thank you for your time

Looks fine for me. Just clean the sights and use a LED lamp, the oil color will look much better. ;-)
In my opinion these oils and oil intervals should cope with high RPMs so your U turn drills may give hard time for the clutch (or not), but obviously less rigorous than acceleration back to back with open throttle. Of course I fully agree with others if you want a peace of mind, change the liquid gold, but I am not so sure about for 5W-40, I mean, I am no mechanic, just I have an experience based comparison based between 5W-40 and 0W-30. I have used 0W-30 in my 2001 Mazda 1.6 petrol (with zero oil consumption well over 150.000 miles in the clock). So it was much better than 5W-40, and 10W-40 what the mechanics put there before.

Some more scientific comparison. (for start)

 

[60+ Busa Rider]

Thanks. I invariably buy fully synthetic oils and since I ride also in winter I wonder if it could be a wise idea to opt for a 5W40... (?)
Good idea about the foot, I'll see to it.

If your coldest riding temp is 32F and above I would stay with 10W40 but if you ride in temps below 32F then 5W40 would also be fine.

 

[Claude J. Greengrass]

Looks fine for me. Just clean the sights and use a LED lamp, the oil color will look much better. ;-)
In my opinion these oils and oil intervals should cope with high RPMs so your U turn drills may give hard time for the clutch (or not), but obviously less rigorous than acceleration back to back with open throttle. Of course I fully agree with others if you want a peace of mind, change the liquid gold, but I am not so sure about for 5W-40, I mean, I am no mechanic, just I have an experience based comparison based between 5W-40 and 0W-30. I have used 0W-30 in my 2001 Mazda 1.6 petrol (with zero oil consumption well over 150.000 miles in the clock). So it was much better than 5W-40, and 10W-40 what the mechanics put there before.

Some more scientific comparison. (for start)

No clutch for u-turns, no acceleration, just 1st gear and muscle and/or rear brake. The 0W looks to me somewhat outdated as I don't recall any recent temperatures below -15 C, and only just for a couple of hours. But regarding frequent oil changes, yes, I also vote yes!

 

[HayaWakened]

What about duration of 300V? (or any oil)
Not miles, but time.
I put <3k mi on the Gen 2 in the last 12 mos
Less than recommended mileage interval, leave it in, regardless of time in bike?

 

[jellyrug]

What about duration of 300V? (or any oil)
Not miles, but time.
I put <3k mi on the Gen 2 in the last 12 mos
Less than recommended mileage interval, leave it in, regardless of time in bike?

If your bike sits inside a closed garage, they suggest once a year.

Personally, I change at. 5,000 miles, around once every four years. I have my oil analyzed by a lab, and every test the oil had plenty time/miles left.

 

[60+ Busa Rider]

In one of my lubrication training classes we were taught oil has a 1 year shelf life in an engine and 3 year shelf life in the bottle. I admit I have not stuck to either of those rules.

 

[WuzzaCBXRider]

Three year shelf life for dino oil? How long was it in the ground? Why didn’t it (spoil)? Synthetic oil doesn’t spoil.

 

[Dai.]

Looks fine to me, I service at the recommended schedules or earlier if a big trip is planned.

 

[60+ Busa Rider]

Three year shelf life for dino oil? How long was it in the ground? Why didn’t it (spoil)? Synthetic oil doesn’t spoil.

Yeah really I should have used that line on the instructor! . The oil itself doesn’t expire but some of the additives may breakdown over time.

I’m certainly not going to write born on dates on my oils and throw them away in 3 years!

 

[Claude J. Greengrass]

If your bike sits inside a closed garage, they suggest once a year.

Personally, I change at. 5,000 miles, around once every four years. I have my oil analyzed by a lab, and every test the oil had plenty time/miles left.

Lab? Interesting, I like measurements, let's see where and how much...
My bike stays outside but under a waterproof cover, protected also from the salt they throw against black ice.
What is the relation with the oil quality?

 

[Claude J. Greengrass]

In one of my lubrication training classes we were taught oil has a 1 year shelf life in an engine and 3 year shelf life in the bottle. I admit I have not stuck to either of those rules.

Sounds correct, but at 850 km/month average (= 528 miles) I see myself doing 3 maintenance every two years... So far good to buy first quality synthetics when prices drop.

 

[dave s]

Castrol fully synthetic is red in colour