Oil drain plug crush washer

LightCycle

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Hey folks... I'm getting ready to do my first oil change on the Busa (600 mile service was done by the dealer).

I was given a crush washer by the dealer, one side is relatively flat, the other side has a small ridge.

I was wondering if anyone could tell me - does the flat side point towards the bike or the drain plug?

I did about 6 oil changes on my GSXR600 and was never given a crush washer from the dealer.. is this a new thing?

I've done some searches on the board and I understand the washer is supposed to help from overtightening as the bolt is steele and the oil pan is aluminum.

I was also hoping someone could tell me the torque requirement for the drain bolt. I've read both 13.5 ft/lbs and 16.5 ft/lbs by two different posters on the board.

The owners manual that I got with the bike doesn't specify a torque requirement nor does it issue a warning against over tightening, nor does it mention a crush washer... pretty useless book if you ask me.

I'm on my way now up to pep boys to buy a wrench now... don't want to risk a leak or stripping the bolt.

Thanks for the help.

Cheers
 
When you pull the plug you'll have your answer.The flat goes against the pan however. A wrench is a good idea.Download our free Manual to get the right spec...I point you there in a sec.

Yer dealer was just being nice,a new crush is always a good idea,I never bothered much thou. I used to change my oil once a month.

Fashion up a tin foil funnel or pie plate to stop all that hot oil from landing on yer headers.

RSD.
 
Um Proper Drain Plug torque is finger tight till it stops, then "Just a lil Snug with a SHORT wrench"

The direction of the crush washer really doesn't matter but I allways put mine with the "Crush" zone towards the pan. BE REAL CAREFUL MAN... Very easy to strip those threads and a pain to fix.

Crush washers aren't new I don't think, but I never remember them prior to about 5-6 years ago.
 
Oh, Flat towards the pan Eh? Cool, now I know.

Listen to RSD unless he's discussing fashion...
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Oh, Flat towards the pan Eh?  Cool, now I know.  

Listen to RSD unless he's discussing fashion...
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I always put the flat against the soft alluminum,and the side that may score against the hardened steel bolt.

Rev's right...easy to strip. If it ever does heli-coil is possible,but if yer wallets no too thin,order a new one(pan) or get one from a wreckie.

The clothing tip...never mind...
 
Just got back from Pep Boys, and all of their torque wrenches start out at 20 ft/lbs, I even spoke with the head parts guy, the general manager and the head mechanic.... once I got the ball rolling everyone was interested...
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The manual says 16.5 ft/lbs - thanks a bunch for the link RSD, I have a copy on my desktop now.

So what does everyone else do?

If I finger tighten it to the point where the bolt and crush washer make contact with the oil pan... are we talking an additional 1/4 turn - 1/2 turn of the wrench?

I've got no idea what 16.5 ft/lbs feels like. It's not that I'm anal about having everything "in spec", but I'm worried that too loose I risk leaking oil on the rear tire and we all know what that can do. Too tight and I risk striping it out which means I won't be able to ride ... all work and no ride makes me a very unhappy boy
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Short Wrench, Not a ratchet, and once crush washer makes contact just tighten down until you meet a bit of resistance.

*snug*

Maybe 1/2 a turn I dunno, but 16.5 Ft lbs isn't much. So, short wrench, and then Snug.
 
Here's a question,how to get the crush washer off of the drainplug??
I could not get it off.
 
^^^Ya, Auqaman, this sux. Just spent at least 1/2 hour with hammer and cold chisel tippy tapping away at the old washer.

I believe it was overtightened in the dealer prep ( No surprises there) because it was frozen on there at the fist oil change and the plug felt pretty tight. I used the same washer a second time and a third time. And I torqued a few pounds past 16.5.

Change washer every time and use a flex beam torque wrench calibrated 0 - 50 lbs or less. Those torque wrenches that are made for high torque are not accurate for light torques. You aluminum drain plug threads will thank you if you use the right torque. Hopefully that will make crush washer removal a piece of cake too.
 
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