Not Again!!  Help

[soon2be]

Well, finally decided to install the heli-bars. I was taking my time. Finished the right side, now time for the left. Time to take the frame slider off so I can remove the fairing (this is the one bad thing about frame sliders). SNAP! The motor mount bolt snaps and the rest is buried deep inside. D@mn! Of course the cordless drill that I got for last father's day isn't ready (it never is). So off to Sears to get a corded drill and some reversible bits to get the rest of the bolt out. After five hours, the bolt is still not out. Does anyone have any ideas? Should I keep drilling until I reach the other end of the bolt? Is there any risk of damage if I go all the way through? Should I then try to rethread?

Open to any and all suggestions. By the way, the heli-bars installation is complete, just don't know how they feel. Thanks for listening.

Signed
Stuck @ home with no bike to ride

[Turbo-Torch]

Carefully tack a welding rod on what's left of the bolt and use that to back it out.

[Vic_E55_2001]

and nobody believed me when I warned everyone not to use cheap crap bolts provided with sliders.

Dude, I would call professionals. You can make things worse.
If I remember correctly engine bolt is 10mm. What size drill bit do you use?

[soon2be]

(Vic_E55_2001 @ Jun. 02 2007,22:37) and nobody believed me when I warned everyone not to use cheap crap bolts provided with sliders.  

Dude, I would call professionals. You can make things worse.
If I remember correctly engine bolt is 10mm. What size drill bit do you use?

I started out just trying to drill a hole down the middle. Each time I tried to reverse it, it would strip. I bought a 5pc screw extractor set (5/64", 7/64", 5/32", 1/4", and 19/64") and a 5pc fluted screw extractor set (1/8", 3/16', 15/64", 5/16", and 3/8").

If I can go straight through the bolt, will I bump anything on the other side that might cause engine damage?

[Vic_E55_2001]

(soon2be @ Jun. 02 2007,22:01) If I can go straight through the bolt, will I bump anything on the other side that might cause engine damage?

Start the engine, get it real hot. Aluminum has higher coefficient of thermal expansion. It might loose thing a bit. Make sure that extractor has good grip before next attempt.
If that doesnt work and you absolutely positive that your drilled hole exactly in the middle then drill it through little by little. it is blind hole, you will not damage the engine components if drilled trough.

Let me check something, I`ll get back to you.

[Vic_E55_2001]

you can drill 8 mm hole in this bolt and the rest of the tread will get loose with little attempt. but ONLY if you close to the center of the bolt.
Better yet go to bed, sleep it over. Daylight helps sometime.

[bitabur]

Is it flush with the surface where it broke off? I've had some luck cross-cutting broken or stripped bolts and screws with a dremel cutting wheel (the last one I did, I had to wear the disk down to a very small diameter to make the cut) and using a flathead screwdriver to remove them.

[mymaster]

Heres some info, might help?

http://www.motorcycle.com/mo/mcnuts/stuckscrews.html

[nitrousjunkie]

Carefully weld a smaller bolt to it,then remove the whole thing.

[tinmann840]

Okay since nobody is going to ask . Why did you have to remove the sliders to get your fairing off in the first place ? I can take my fairings off without frame slider removal . What kind of sliders do you have ?

[bigoltool]

(Vic_E55_2001 @ Jun. 02 2007,21:24)

(soon2be @ Jun. 02 2007,22:01) If I can go straight through the bolt, will I bump anything on the other side that might cause engine damage?

Start the engine, get it real hot. Aluminum has higher coefficient of thermal expansion. It might loose thing a bit. Make sure that extractor has good grip before next attempt.
If that doesnt work and you absolutely positive that your drilled hole exactly in the middle then drill it through little by little. it is blind hole, you will not damage the engine components if drilled trough.

Let me check something, I`ll get back to you.

This is a stretch but if you already have a hole in the middle of the bolt you might try sticking a pencil type soldering iron iron in there and getting things up to temp, get some marvels mystery oil or? in there and then try to get it out with your extractors after she cools a bit. You could even try a can of compressed air held upside down after you get her hot, the cooling of the inside of the bolt compared to the frame and engine block might help?

That must have taken some doing to snap off a 10mm bolt was there a tip over at some point?

Godd luck!

[soon2be]

Thanks for the help all.  

Mymaster-

Thanks for the link.  Good info.  

Bitabur-

 It's not flush.  After all of the efforts yesterday, it is now about an inch deep.  

Tinmann-
 
 The slider has a smaller inside diameter.  So the hole was drilled to cover that portion.  

Bigoltool-

  Believe it or not, I have never had a tipover.  No reason (in my mind) for the bolt to become weakened.

[soon2be]

No luck today.  Drilled to the end of the wall, inserted extractor, Snap! again.  Now I think it's time for Vic_E55_2001's suggestion and get an 8mm bit to try to clean it out.  

I was thinking of drilling with the 8mm bit and try to rethread.  If anyone has other ideas, I'm all ears.

Is it safe to ride in this condition?

[dadofthree]

I've never removed this bolt. You might want to drill out part of the bolt. Tap or retap hole and run short motor mount bolt. Check out the manual. Those bolts seem to just run in the meaty portion of the heads if I have the right engine mounting bolts.