My 2006 w/full akrapovic bmc race velocity stacks

GPW -

What elevation was your Dyno run made at? I'm at 800' above sea-level, and with Full exhaust, small-airbox mod, ramair seals, synth oil, NGK plugs, stock air-filter, power commander, 40psi rear wheel pressure for dyno run, 3014 miles on motor, 12.5.1 A/F ratio I made 171 rwhp on the dyno. The bike made 156 rwhp stock with about 10 miles on it for its initial run. Forget the Quasar map...Nothing against Quasar, but why get a generic map when you have all that $$$$ in the bike, get it back on the dyno for a custom map....add more fuel. Also, not sure if your running all short-stacks but it will add more peak HP, but it will hurt your torque down low.

Also, like yourself I have shaved a ton of weight off the Busa, and even though Im sure Im making the same HP numbers, the bike pulls harder on the street than it did before I shave off a good deal of weight, and street is where it is at...not the Dyno. So even if your bike makes 160 rwhp, with the weight you took off I think it would handle and perform better than a bike making 170 rwhp without the weight reduction. Everyone gets so caught up in this numbers game...look at the ZX-13.5, sure it puts out higher peak HP, but how often are you running peak rpm on the street? And sure the stock zx may take the busa in the 1/4 mile but by what...a few 1/10th's....ok, very important at the track....but if you take that lowered, raked, 1/4 mile bike that blisters the 1/4 mile in the 8's...its gona get spanked on the twisty stuff on the street.

Anyhow your bike looks great, you have some nice torque numbers, and with the weight reduction - I think you have a great setup. Leave the hp numbers game to other people, and enjoy the Busa for what you made it to be...Obviously you did not mod your bike to run the 1/4 mile.
 
hpw - your torque is what's important and it needs some help. Stock bore/stroke shouldn't have camel humps. Your torque should peak at 7k. A/F needs to be richened up alot. Just look for the greatest torque gains.

grabntwist - nice takeoffs! they're in pretty good shape.
biggrin.gif
 ahhh were they just mounted a few hundred miles before the pic or was the pic after 1100 miles?!?!?  ahhh also see the blue on the edges... those tires are burnt out. Once you turn the traction control on you wont have that problem any more of the tire spinning up out of the turns....
I have race velocity stacks, BMC race air filter and the small air box mod...its going to change where the bike peaks at just a bit. Should move it up the rpm range. The bike is getting remapped with the Tsukigi Spec II race system which has really improved the low end. At this point I am not changing a thing...the bike runs that good after 22 years of riding..I am really impressed.



<!--EDIT|GPW
Reason for Edit: None given...|1154100829 -->
 
GPW -

    What elevation was your Dyno run made at? I'm at 800' above sea-level, and with Full exhaust, small-airbox mod, ramair seals, synth oil, NGK plugs, stock air-filter, power commander, 40psi rear wheel pressure for dyno run, 3014 miles on motor, 12.5.1 A/F ratio I made 171 rwhp on the dyno. The bike made 156 rwhp stock with about 10 miles on it for its initial run. Forget the Quasar map...Nothing against Quasar, but why get a generic map when you have all that $$$$ in the bike, get it back on the dyno for a custom map....add more fuel. Also, not sure if your running all short-stacks but it will add more peak HP, but it will hurt your torque down low.

Also, like yourself I have shaved a ton of weight off the Busa, and even though Im sure Im making the same HP numbers, the bike pulls harder on the street than it did before I shave off a good deal of weight, and street is where it is at...not the Dyno. So even if your bike makes 160 rwhp, with the weight you took off I think it would handle and perform better than a bike making 170 rwhp without the weight reduction. Everyone gets so caught up in this numbers game...look at the ZX-13.5, sure it puts out higher peak HP, but how often are you running peak rpm on the street? And sure the stock zx may take the busa in the 1/4 mile but by what...a few 1/10th's....ok, very important at the track....but if you take that lowered, raked, 1/4 mile bike that blisters the 1/4 mile in the 8's...its gona get spanked on the twisty stuff on the street.

Anyhow your bike looks great, you have some nice torque numbers, and with the weight reduction - I think you have a great setup. Leave the hp numbers game to other people, and enjoy the Busa for what you made it to be...Obviously you did not mod your bike to run the 1/4 mile.
You are correct. If I wanted peak power. I could get a supercharger on the bike yesterday and some but I don't want the weight. For my application, twisty carving. It does more than well. I know what happened when 14 of us hit the twisties for 850 miles of testing...all experienced riders on some very nice machines...its ready for the task that's all I will say..
smile.gif
Again the dyno tech could not even change the run file name so I am not even sure if the numbers I have are correct.
 
GPW -

    What elevation was your Dyno run made at? I'm at 800' above sea-level, and with Full exhaust, small-airbox mod, ramair seals, synth oil, NGK plugs, stock air-filter, power commander, 40psi rear wheel pressure for dyno run, 3014 miles on motor, 12.5.1 A/F ratio I made 171 rwhp on the dyno. The bike made 156 rwhp stock with about 10 miles on it for its initial run. Forget the Quasar map...Nothing against Quasar, but why get a generic map when you have all that $$$$ in the bike, get it back on the dyno for a custom map....add more fuel. Also, not sure if your running all short-stacks but it will add more peak HP, but it will hurt your torque down low.

Also, like yourself I have shaved a ton of weight off the Busa, and even though Im sure Im making the same HP numbers, the bike pulls harder on the street than it did before I shave off a good deal of weight, and street is where it is at...not the Dyno. So even if your bike makes 160 rwhp, with the weight you took off I think it would handle and perform better than a bike making 170 rwhp without the weight reduction. Everyone gets so caught up in this numbers game...look at the ZX-13.5, sure it puts out higher peak HP, but how often are you running peak rpm on the street? And sure the stock zx may take the busa in the 1/4 mile but by what...a few 1/10th's....ok, very important at the track....but if you take that lowered, raked, 1/4 mile bike that blisters the 1/4 mile in the 8's...its gona get spanked on the twisty stuff on the street.

Anyhow your bike looks great, you have some nice torque numbers, and with the weight reduction - I think you have a great setup. Leave the hp numbers game to other people, and enjoy the Busa for what you made it to be...Obviously you did not mod your bike to run the 1/4 mile.
all short stacks...
 
hpw - your torque is what's important and it needs some help. Stock bore/stroke shouldn't have camel humps. Your torque should peak at 7k. A/F needs to be richened up alot. Just look for the greatest torque gains.

grabntwist - nice takeoffs! they're in pretty good shape.
biggrin.gif
 ahhh were they just mounted a few hundred miles before the pic or was the pic after 1100 miles?!?!?  ahhh also see the blue on the edges... those tires are burnt out. Once you turn the traction control on you wont have that problem any more of the tire spinning up out of the turns....
I have race velocity stacks, BMC race air filter and the small air box mod...its going to change where the bike peaks at just a bit. Should move it up the rpm range. The bike is getting remapped with the Tsukigi Spec II race system which has really improved the low end. At this point I am not changing a thing...the bike runs that good after 22 years of riding..I am really impressed.
go through a bunch of maps on stock bore/stroke and you'll notice NONE have a double hump... now go to a stroker motor dyno chart and that's where you'll see the double peeks.

Unless you go with different cams or you re-degree the stock cams the peak torque will be in the same spot. The number will be higher as you free things up but where in the rev wont change.
 
hpw - your torque is what's important and it needs some help. Stock bore/stroke shouldn't have camel humps. Your torque should peak at 7k. A/F needs to be richened up alot. Just look for the greatest torque gains.

grabntwist - nice takeoffs! they're in pretty good shape.
biggrin.gif
 ahhh were they just mounted a few hundred miles before the pic or was the pic after 1100 miles?!?!?  ahhh also see the blue on the edges... those tires are burnt out. Once you turn the traction control on you wont have that problem any more of the tire spinning up out of the turns....
I have race velocity stacks, BMC race air filter and the small air box mod...its going to change where the bike peaks at just a bit. Should move it up the rpm range. The bike is getting remapped with the Tsukigi Spec II race system which has really improved the low end. At this point I am not changing a thing...the bike runs that good after 22 years of riding..I am really impressed.
go through a bunch of maps on stock bore/stroke and you'll notice NONE have a double hump... now go to a stroker motor dyno chart and that's where you'll see the double peeks.

Unless you go with different cams or you re-degree the stock cams the peak torque will be in the same spot. The number will be higher as you free things up but where in the rev wont change.
thanks for the info...like I said I have ridden with everything fast on the (curvy) roads and I have no issues with the power of the bike at all. When and if I do anything to the bike such as a stroker kit, degreed cams, NOS, Supercharger....I will put the very best of everything available on it, this bike, it has no budget line. It runs well as is and it will run better with another custom map session with the new exhaust. Note to self keep dyno sheets on my computer. I am headed to Jason Miller's drag race school at MIR next month, so I will get to see the trap speed of the bike. MPH equals HP so I should know alot more then. Until then this bike seriously rocks in the mountains just the way I wanted it too. When I start getting passed in corners by other hyperbikes, I'll make some changes...
biggrin.gif




<!--EDIT|GPW
Reason for Edit: None given...|1154113276 -->

biggrin.gif
 
hpw - your torque is what's important and it needs some help. Stock bore/stroke shouldn't have camel humps. Your torque should peak at 7k. A/F needs to be richened up alot. Just look for the greatest torque gains.

grabntwist - nice takeoffs! they're in pretty good shape.
biggrin.gif
 ahhh were they just mounted a few hundred miles before the pic or was the pic after 1100 miles?!?!?  ahhh also see the blue on the edges... those tires are burnt out. Once you turn the traction control on you wont have that problem any more of the tire spinning up out of the turns....
The Metzellers have about 1100 miles on them in that pic. The Michelins are newer. Not sure where you're coming from.
 
I'm thinking of changing mine . I have a full Ti Leo Vince . IT sounds good but doesn't make the HP. I heard that Tsugi ( I think that is how it is spelled ) Is the best new one on the market for HP.
 
And by the way my bike has full exhaust, BMC filter, Pair mod, air box mod, and it did 159hp w/ 97ft lbs . Just remember all dynos are different. With the #36 jet of NOS it did 208hp 137 ft lbs .
 
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