Leather Care (revisited)

skydivr

Jumps from perfectly good Airplanes
Donating Member
After doing a search and reading old threads back to 2004, it looked like it might be time to revisit this subject.

I finally got in the shower with my A-Stars Suit and stretched it out a little. Of course, that also dries out the leather some so I'm wanting to recondition it.

I've seen mentioned:

- Pledge (I'll pass)
- Lexol (have some and looks like best bet)
- Snow Seal (beeswax?)
- Any hand lotion containing lanolin. This one is interesting - I spent 20 minutes in Walgreens with a clerk looking at hand lotion labels (yes, I KNOW)...The only lotion/creme that contained lanolin of any quantity was something that nursing mothers use to keep from getting chapped...didnt' dare ask the clerk for a demo :rofl:
- There are plenty of specialty leather conditioners out there, but I'm looking for something readily available.

So, how about it?
 
There are various types and grades of leathers, each serving a different purpose. Some require a bit more maintenance than others, but all follow a set guideline of care to ensure a longer life.


There are four stages in leather care that include cleaning, conditioning, polishing, and protection. When perusing the store shelves for a product that fits your needs, be watchful for what kind of product you're purchasing. It can be confusing to try and figure out which product is for which stage, but look for words that explain how the product is to be used. It is also important to remember to work on your leather in a well-ventilated area. Some leather care products are very strong and can cause irritations.



Cleaning


To clean a leather item, first choose a cleaner that will help preserve the natural lubricating oils instead of stripping them. For example, saddle soap is a commonly used product for equestrian tack. It is meant to be used as a cleaner and a protector from moisture, but it strips the leather of the oils in the process of attempting to do two jobs at once. The cleaner of your choice should not leave any greasy residue behind. Residue makes leather susceptible to bacteria and can break down the stitching of your item. Before applying anything to your leather item, be certain to test it out for effect and possible color distortion on an area that isn't visible to the eye. Once you've ascertained whether the leather care product is acceptable to use, apply it to your item. With a slightly dampened cloth, remove the cleaning product. For areas with stitches, there are brushes available on the market. Another cleaning product to consider having in your leather care collection is a nubuck cleaning cloth. They have an astonishing ability to clean and restore leather to its original look.


Conditioning


Leather conditioners are meant for occasional use. They contain fats and/or oils that help lubricate leather and replenish the suppleness. Look for a product that will penetrate the strong fibers in leather, but beware of any that include petroleum or mineral oils. While petroleum by-products won't damage your leather immediately, they do over a period of time. Again, just as with cleaning, keep on the look out for thick, greasy conditioning treatments for the best care of your leather.


Polishing


Polishing is done for special occasions when you want a more glossy finish on your leather. There are a couple things to be wary of when purchasing a polishing agent. Some products contain coloring factors that will brush off on things you come in contact with. Some products also have a tendency to clog the pores in leather or dry leather out. Just as with cleaning, be sure to test out the product on a small area and when ready, buff to a shine.


Protection


Moisture barriers are extremely crucial in preventing rain or other liquid hazards from damaging leather. Stiffness and spouting will happen if leather isn't protected beforehand. There is a drawback in protecting leather with a moisture barrier product. They tend to fill in the pores with a greasiness that makes cleaning, conditioning, and polishing difficult, but it's a necessary process to ensure leather isn't destroyed. Periodically apply a moisture barrier and allow it time to penetrate and dry before using your leather item.


Removing Mildew


To remove mildew from leather, create a mixture of one-cup rubbing alcohol per one-cup of water. Wipe the mildew area with a cloth dipped in the diluted alcohol, then allow it to dry. If the mildew persists, use mild soap and water that contains a germicide, then remove with a clean dampened cloth and allow to dry.


Wet Leather


An important key to keeping leather in top-notch condition is to treat wet leather before it has a chance to dry. Remove any dirt, mud, or other stains with a cleaning agent, then condition while the pores are still fully responsive. It is critical to remember that leather should be dried away from heat. If the leather in question is a garment, it's a good idea to stuff the garment to retain shape.


Storing Leather


Remember that leather is a natural material and should never be stored in plastic because it encourages the growth of mildew and bacteria and will ruin the leather. Always store leather in a cool, dry place away from heat. If the leather item is a garment, store in a breathable bag.


Removing Stains


Fresh stains from things such as blood and food can be cleaned up quickly with a damp cloth. Stains from oil or grease can be lifted by grinding ordinary blackboard chalk, sprinkling the area, and leaving the powder on for a twenty-four hour period. Resist the urge to rub the powder in. After a sufficient time has past, simply use a leather care brush to remove the powder. While fresh stains can be treated and cleaned at home, ground-in stains should be attended to by a professional cleaner who deals in leather.
 
I've always used saddle soap to clean my leathers and then I followup with mink oil.

There are plenty of different leather cleaners and condioners on the market.
 
It doesn't mention anything about the saddle soap but does comment about mink oil (however brief). I've got one jacket that's already over 20yrs old. I'm sure it won't last forever. They're small kit isn't to bad for $30.00. Maybe when I run out I'll try it. :beerchug: I'll be honest that I don't expect to notice any difference but maybe in 30 years from now I might be saying something else.

There are some articles out there that are 100% AGAINST saddle soap and mink oil...Here's an interesting linky

Obenauf's Leather Care Products
 
ya know this :worthless:


really, Keith in his gear, in the shower? :rofl:

Bet that was hard to peal off~!~ :laugh:


I just soak mine in a 5 gallon bucket of clean motor oil...and if you leave it on, they are so easy to get in and out of~!!~ :rofl:


J/K,,,don't try that one
 
Another shameless cut/paste:

--------------------
Leather Care

Now is the time of year you need to think about your leather both bags and clothing. Your bags will be taking a beating from the sun and your clothing will be going into storage. The bags on your bike should be done several times a year depending on how much you ride. If they are looking a little dry treat them.

Whether you have a fancy one-piece racing suit or a combination of jacket, boots, pants and gloves, leather is also expensive and worth taking care of so as to extend its life as long as possible.

What the Experts Say

My research has revealed that many of the products sold for leather care on the market today are not at all ideal. However, their brochures sound convincing, and as uninformed consumers we tend to buy the products without question. Brace yourself to learn some new tricks.

If you look at the typical car care center or furniture dealer that sells leather care products, you are likely to be as mystified at the dizzying array of creams and potions that are sold to clean and care for your leather garments. After interviewing many people in the motorcycle garment business, and often receiving a different opinion from each of them, I decided I needed an unbiased source of information.

So I turned to the Leather Apparel Association (LAA), an industry group that was founded by 40 retailers, tanners, producers and cleaners in 1990. They currently have more than 100 members, and one of their goals is to provide an authoritative source of information related to leather and its use and care. They also maintain an approved list of leather cleaners throughout the United States, which can be found on their website Leather Association

Leather Care Tips

Leather ages gracefully and can last a lifetime with proper care right from the start.

Always hang leather garments on wide or padded hangers to maintain their shape. Use shoetrees in footwear and stuff empty handbags with tissue to help retain their shape.

Never store leather goods in plastic or other non-breathable covers. This will cause leather to become dry.

Allow wet or damp leather to air-dry naturally away from any heat source. Leather can be treated with a conditioner to restore flexibility while suede can be brushed with a terry towel to restore its look.

In winter, promptly remove salt deposits from garments and footwear by sponging with clear water, then follow with the above treatment for wet or damp leather.

When storing avoid very humid and dry environments as well as direct sunlight.

Do not use waxes, silicone products or other leather preparations that impair a garment's ability to breathe.

Wrinkles should hang out. If ironing is desired, set iron on rayon setting, use heavy brown wrapping paper as a pressing cloth on right side of the garment and a quick hand to prevent overheating and shine.

Avoid spraying perfumes or hair sprays while wearing your garment and do not apply pins, adhesive badges or tape. Wearing a scarf at the neckline will help keep hair and body oil away from the collar.

Hems may be fixed with a tiny amount of rubber cement. For best results see a leather care professional.

All products designed to be used at home should be tested on an inconspicuous part of the garment.

Always hang leather garments on wide or padded hangers to maintain their shape. Use shoetrees in footwear and stuff empty handbags with tissue to help retain their shape. Never store leather goods in plastic or other non-breathable covers. This will cause leather to become dry.

All products designed to be used at home should be tested on an inconspicuous part of the garment.

How Often Do I Condition Leather?

This is very dependent on the frequency of use as well as the conditions of exposure. For example, a person that rides a few thousand miles a year in good weather may only have to clean and condition once or twice a year, while a rider constantly exposing leather garments to harsh conditions may have to clean and condition after every few rides. In fact, riders may even need to clean after every ride if the leather is exposed to lots of perspiration or road salts. Also properly conditioned leather tends to clean easier.

Without regular cleaning and conditioning, perspiration will draw the moisture right out of the leather, turn it hard, and eventually make it tear like paper. Once that occurs, no product will bring the leather back.

I have leather that is 40 years old and still in good condition.

A few tips to start the cold season:

Carefully go over your leather to see if any repairs are needed, broken zippers, seams giving out. Better to find out now than when you need it. Oil the zippers with sewing mach oil.

Water Proof - A spray water repellent will not hurt your leather. A water repellent will help any unfinished brushed or naked leather. However, if you get caught in a downpour, don't expect any water repellent to keep your leathers completely dry! Water will eventually soak into the leather.

I have never found a way to get that salt stain out of my boots once its there so using a good treatment like Obenauf's Lp. will help prevent this problem. Incidentally, it's not the water that spots leather, it's the minerals in the water that stay behind once the water evaporates

Many people swear by mink oil to condition and waterproof their motorcycle leather. There are really two fundamentally different approaches to motorcycle leather care: The way I describe mink oil vs. a oil-type leather conditioner, it's like putting Vaseline on your hands vs. Jergens lotion. Mink oil will clog the pores of your leather, just as Vaseline creates a barrier between your skin and the environment. That's why it will make your leather motorcycle accessories waterproof. It will also eventually dry out your leather because the pores are clogged. You will also notice your leather accessories may have a whitish haze to it. That's what happens when mink oil solidifies in cold weather. To answer the question, it makes more sense to put mink oil on your boots, if you so desire, and use a conditioner specifically designed for leather care and the conditioning of quality Deer, Elk, Buffalo , and Cow hide.

Tips for how to keep motorcycle leather from fading:

If left untreated, all leather is subject to fading from the sun's ultraviolet (UV) rays. There is really only one leather care product that effectively prevents your leather from doing the slow-fade dance: 303 Aerospace Protectant. With regular use, this leather conditioning product prevents fading up to 100%. In addition, it conditions your motorcycle leather so that it is highly soil, oil, and water-resistant without clogging the pores of the leather or making them slick or sticky. An effective sunscreen for your leather will help ensure that your leather accessories will look better and last longer
 
I've actually got some Leatherique for my BMW seats...whaddya know.

I thought this thread might be a better contribution to the board than talking about the President and the Nobel Prize (and I'm sure MC Mustang agrees! :moon:):rofl:
 
I've been using a product called "Seven". It's an all natural leather balm that I got from a dealer out of Chicago. I clean the leathers with a leather cleaner/conditioner, then run in a tin coating of the balm. I do that at the beginning of every season. I clean the bugs and dirt off with a clean damp rag the rest of the time.

The 12oz jar of "Seven" has done four full leather suits, five pairs of gloves, four pairs of boots, and three jackets. I have about half of it left now.
 
I hear ya' :beerchug: I don't think it'll become a heated debate or anything else.

I think this is the best advice I got from a few of the leather care sites: "Avoid using household cleaning products, solvents, or cleaners intended for materials other than leather as they are liable to damage the finish."

I thought this thread might be a better contribution to the board than talking about the President and the Nobel Prize (and I'm sure MC Mustang agrees! :moon:):rofl:
 
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