I have a ? if your chain was tight than loose

[hyhflo]

Im at my wits end this busa is going to auction
so im desperate for ideas
has a 240 kit
when i got it i had it on the stand and did the normal once over
well i adjusted the chain
was out riding and hear the chain slapping swingarm
replace front and rear sprocket and chain
all look good then slap slap
so now is where im at trans shaft looks good no run out
im sure its in the rear sprocket new bearings on order but not sure they are bad
has pm wheel so do i order all parts or f#$kit
send it to the auction
my feeling is to let it ride and just dumpit

[BusaWizard]

Sorry I don't have an answer, but someone with a kit on theirs will help you out.

[Hayabusa2005]

[TruWrecks]

Does the chain tighten and loosen which each revolution as you slowly turn the wheel by hand? If it does the wheel bearings my be damaged.

[BA BUSA]

Sounds like a tight spot, or 'kink' in the chain if it goes from loose to tight when you rotate the rear tire by hand on a stand.

[BusaWizard]

Oh yea,aboard.

[Evil_keeps_me_young]

the chain is actually hitting the swingarm?

[AJAY]

Before you sell your bike, you need to find out where the slap is coming from. Usually it comes from runout on the rear sprocket, not the drive sprocket.

What kind of rear sprocket are you using? Is it a standard one piece steel sprocket, or is it something fancy? (forget the brand for that 3 piece sprocket)

Start with checking chain alignment. If the sprockets are not aligned, nothing will work and you will beat one chain after another to death - and the sprockets too. Motion Pro - CHAIN ALIGNMENT TOOL There are also laser alignment tools for a lot more money. If the sprockets are aligned, but offset from each other, you will destroy chains quickly. This could be a problem with your 240 kit.

You could use a dial indicator to check the runout of the countershaft. You can get set up with an indicator and a flexi mount for about $25 from Harbor Freight. - Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices

I'm not quite sure how you would do this on the rear sprocket, but maybe you just take the chain and chainguard off, and clamp a straightedge close to the sprocket and visually check for runout. Look at the bottoms of the teeth, not the tops.

Clamp the dial indicator to the swingarm with the tip on the polished rim of the wheel to see if there is sideways movement of the wheel. If you put the tip on the inside of the rim, you should be able to check for runout (back and forth movement) in the plane of rotation. The poor man's way to do this is to hold a magic marker or piece of chalk on the swingarm and move it in close to the spinning wheel until the top touches the rim to find the high spots, at least that's how you do it to true a bicycle wheel.

Summarizing, check chain alignment and sprocket offset. Check for sprocket runout. Check for wheel runout (in plane and out of plane).

Good luck!

[hyhflo]

Before you sell your bike, you need to find out where the slap is coming from. Usually it comes from runout on the rear sprocket, not the drive sprocket.

What kind of rear sprocket are you using? Is it a standard one piece steel sprocket, or is it something fancy? (forget the brand for that 3 piece sprocket)

Start with checking chain alignment. If the sprockets are not aligned, nothing will work and you will beat one chain after another to death - and the sprockets too. Motion Pro - CHAIN ALIGNMENT TOOL There are also laser alignment tools for a lot more money. If the sprockets are aligned, but offset from each other, you will destroy chains quickly. This could be a problem with your 240 kit.

You could use a dial indicator to check the runout of the countershaft. You can get set up with an indicator and a flexi mount for about $25 from Harbor Freight. - Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices

I'm not quite sure how you would do this on the rear sprocket, but maybe you just take the chain and chainguard off, and clamp a straightedge close to the sprocket and visually check for runout. Look at the bottoms of the teeth, not the tops.

Clamp the dial indicator to the swingarm with the tip on the polished rim of the wheel to see if there is sideways movement of the wheel. If you put the tip on the inside of the rim, you should be able to check for runout (back and forth movement) in the plane of rotation. The poor man's way to do this is to hold a magic marker or piece of chalk on the swingarm and move it in close to the spinning wheel until the top touches the rim to find the high spots, at least that's how you do it to true a bicycle wheel.

Summarizing, check chain alignment and sprocket offset. Check for sprocket runout. Check for wheel runout (in plane and out of plane).

Good luck!

I got the lazer all is in line
im going to try and shoot a video to post but ill try it

[hyhflo]

sorry video is not going to happen my camera shoots HORRIBLE video

[AJAY]

Good on the laser.

New idea: If you've got a dial indicator, put it against the rear sprocket surface toward the outer rim just far enough in to fully clear the chain, the turn the wheel to determine the out of plane runout (crosswise to the motorcycle).

Did you try the trick with the chalk to check wheel runout?

Also, try to rock your rear wheel and see if there is any play in the bearings.