How does Busa trap speed work?

Tetge

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I have consistently trapped at less than 131 mph at LACR in 12 times out to the track and 85 pulls in the 1/4. Last night 127-128 trap speeds were all the bike could do. It is basically a stock bike with no suspension tricks. I have tried 17/40; 17/41; 17/42(best ET so far); and 16/42 gearing with no real differences in trap speeds. Admittedly I suck major big time at launching the bike and this is a separate issue, but, with cars, we all noticed that trap speeds were pretty consistent regardless of whether you hit a 1.5x 60' time or a 2.0x 60' time. Trap speed was held to represent real world HP, while ET was all about technique.
So, my question is, how much effect does technique at launching and the first 60' and 330' have on trap speeds with the Busa? Unfortunately, no one ever seems to run a stock Busa at LACR, so as examples, my friend's '04 XZ-12R has trapped 133 best vs my almost 131 best and it is all I can compare to. SOme poor kid on a GSXR-750 trapped 122.989 vs me last night (he lost). Another friend's stock 03 Yamaha R1 traps around 130 best. And, a modded GSXP-1000 trapped right at 136 one night in better DA. A modded ZX-10R ran just over 133 trap.
 
What air pressure are you running?
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Trap speed will start dropping as the bike gets hot. Speed is an indication of power, time indicates rider skill. Like NJ said, if you are lowering your tire pressure for a better launch, speed will drop slightly.
 
I run 37 front and 37 rear on the street and I leave it that way at the track, except for one visit when I had to take the back down to 35 psi hot to stop the spin. It squeaks sometimes on launch and the shift to 2nd, but, traction is generally good for me since my 60' times are awful.
With my Cobra, my fastest ET at that same strip did not have that great a trap speed even with a 1.58 60' time. It was an efficient run. And it appears that the Busa works about the same way, which means I have a weak Busa, or, the conditions on Mars (AKA LACR) are just that bad (DA consistently 5000'+ during the summer and it has been windy with a headwind lately).
This is getting depressing. Maybe I better go to one of the better tracks soon and see what it does?
 
Don't worry about your speed, the 12 usually has a higher speed anyway, it works better up top. Ignore the altitude, all the bikes at the track are breathing the same air, so if yours is slow, so is everyone elses. Work on your short times, it'll come.
 
Trap speed works the same on a Busa as it does on other bikes.

Obviously power to weight is an issue. Aerodynamics become more of an issue the faster you go. Also, the quicker you get to full throttle, the longer you'll be at full throttle... All that time you're not at full throttle, you're giving up trap speed AND ET.
 
Trap speed works the same on a Busa as it does on other bikes.

Obviously power to weight is an issue. Aerodynamics become more of an issue the faster you go. Also, the quicker you get to full throttle, the longer you'll be at full throttle... All that time you're not at full throttle, you're giving up trap speed AND ET.
What you are saying makes sense to me. With cages people are usually at full throttle even if they are spinning and getting a bad launch and their traps stay consistent since if they 60 slow, they have longer to accelerate afterward. But, I am fighting wheelies/wheelspin all the time if I go to full throttle too soon. And the Hayabusa stock clutch combined with the available torque can be intimidating at the strip. It feels good even on a fairly tight curvy road but, there is not much time in the first 60' at a drag strip to make useful adjustments with the throttle.
I expect hard launches on big high HP bikes take some time to work up to for some cowardly folks such as me.
 
The wheelies are what makes the 330' more important than 60ft for a bike. For a car it's pretty much the opposite.
Yup. Those wheelies keep trying to get me. But, my cowardly right hand is very quick at chopping the throttle. I keep saying I will push it this time, but, as soon as the wheel come up, that right hand is all over shutting down. I am old school and I never had a street bike that could wheelie like the Busa. So, the instincts take over and plant the front back down where it belongs. I was attempting to get a good 60' but, now that you mention it, the wheelies after the 60' mark are the ones that really bother me. I am going to run a full tank of gas next time I ride because it made a big difference on a long ride yesterday. Full tank and no wheelies. Empty tank and the wheel came up easy.
 
The trick is using the clutch to control the wheelie. If it starts to wheelie, slip the clutch ever so slightly and continue twisting the throttle... Yeah, much easier said than done, lol. I think I've successfully done it like twice
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If you let out of the throttle, you kill your pass.
 
The trick is using the clutch to control the wheelie. If it starts to wheelie, slip the clutch ever so slightly and continue twisting the throttle... Yeah, much easier said than done, lol. I think I've successfully done it like twice
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If you let out of the throttle, you kill your pass.
I use the hell out of the clutch on my 11 sec Mustang and also I smoked the Barnett on my 1987 MotoGuzzi LemansSE with the 35 HP and the 60 mph first gear, but, even adjusted as well as the dial on the lever will allow, the Hayabusa has the most narrow engagement point for a clutch that I ever have encountered. The kind of feathering you are talking about would be difficult, IMHO.
The Hayabusa clutch actually reminds me of the really grippy car clutches that don't like to be slipped. It may have been designed that way on purpose to better handle the torque of the bike. Not a bad clutch at all, and good street manners, but not easy to modulate, at least for me.
 
HOW MUCH YOU WEIGH??

MORE WIEGHT=LESS MPH  

MORE H.P.=MORE MPH
Around 240 suited up.  The Busa goes right at 550 on the track scale.  With me on it 790.  But, there are people going faster all over the country that weigh at least that.  I am thinking that it must be the centerstand.
yikes thats heavy...

me an my ride was 660.
I am fat. My two piece size 54 Joe Rocket leather feels real heavy. And maybe, it is that center stand? I suppose the hump might weigh less than the rear seat? But, I have difficulty swinging my old broken leg over the extra height of the hump when getting on the bike and also, we ride way out ot some desolate places and it would be nice to be able to pack someone back into civilization if their non-Suzuki had a mechanical failure.
But 660? That's dammed impressive. A Haybusa at all up 660 would also go around corners well.
 
The trick is using the clutch to control the wheelie. If it starts to wheelie, slip the clutch ever so slightly and continue twisting the throttle... Yeah, much easier said than done, lol. I think I've successfully done it like twice
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If you let out of the throttle, you kill your pass.
THE CLUTCH CAN ONLY STOP A WHEELIE AT THE LOSS OF E.T.

YOU NEED TO GET YOUR BIKE SLAMMED AS LOW AS POSSIBLE AND DON'T FILL YOUR TANK WITH GAS IT WILL ACTUALLY HAVE THE OPPOSITE EFFECT. THE IDEA IS TO GET YOUR WIEGHT AS LOW ON THE BIKE AS YOU CAN.

SECONDLY YOU NEED TO GET YOUR REAR SHOCK AND TIRE DIALED IN, IF YOU DO THESE THINGS YOUR E.T. AND MPH WILL GET ALOT BETTER. AND YOU WILL BE ABLE TO GO WOT BY THE TREE.

GOOD LUCK
 
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