How can a BMC Race air filter make such a huge performance difference?

umairhashmi

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Today i finally changed my stock air filter that came with the bike after 15k miles to a BMC race. The bike is a 2006 Busa with and has yoshi bolt on pipes on it + a pc3 usb. The bike is stock other than that. So far i kept the bike as it and finally today i put in the Bmc race air filter.

It feels and performs like a completely different bike. I understand the old filter was old and dirty but this much of a difference even at low speed throttle roll ons is amazing. Are the stock air filters really that bad?
 
no they are not that bad, yours was due to dirt probably..


dude im telling you this is not a little difference. Its like a different bike. As a matter of fact when i used to roll off the throttle in the past there was a lot of backfiring which seems to be reduced drastically now too
 
The factory filter is one of the best filters you can run. I have to agree that you must of had a very dirty filter. Glad you're happy with the BMC. Don't know how much crap the BMC is going to let get inside your baby. It might be a good filter I don't know.
 
go to a tuner w/ a dyno and get a custom map for YOUR setup. You should feel even more of a difference.
 
no they are not that bad, yours was due to dirt probably..
Like Biscuit said...it was a combo of a REALLY dirty filter (15k miles??), which will really hurt performance, and adding a very free flowing filter, which can noticeably help throttle response and performance. BMC's do have a noticeable effect..but not quite as dramatic as you experienced :laugh:
 
Just keep in mind you put a race filter in there. As in designed for track use. So might want to just change it a little more often that if you were to use a normal K&N/Pipercross/BMC filter.

I've shipped a couple race filters out here and there, but ya always want to do that gentle reminder about that to anybody I ship one of those to. Stock the K&N & Pipercross.
 
Restriction of a motor's breathing due to dirty, long-use, stock filter is like having asthma to a motor. A motor is a big, combustion assisted air pump. No air in, no air to pump, low air out. Open the bronchials of said motor's lungs, and more air in, more air to pump, more air out.....MORE HORSEPOWER, and much better throttle-response. 15K is a long ways on a filter depending on environment.... :oldcool:
 
i had decel pop on my 06 till I did a pair valve mod. that made all the diff in the world on how she idled ran everything and no more pop. I have 2brothers slip ons....Also looked up alot of info on airfilters and when I got tired of looking up info the bottom line I came up with is that stock is best for filtration. just my 2
 
i had decel pop on my 06 till i did a pair valve mod. That made all the diff in the world on how she idled ran everything and no more pop. I have 2brothers slip ons....also looked up alot of info on airfilters and when i got tired of looking up info the bottom line i came up with is that stock is best for filtration. Just my 2

+1, oem
 
How much do you pay for custom maps in your area? the supposedly good guy here charges around 300 bucks.


L&L Motorsports charges $200 to $250, but on his portable dyno that he brings to the racetrack. Cyclemall.net/Catalyst REaction suspension Tuning just bought a new dyno and they'll be charging $300 for their services, once it's up and running.
 
my airbox has been completely gutted. my filter doesnt even cover the entire hole. i have a filter in there anyway to catch any tiny pebbles that may make their way in there but that aint never happened.
 
I use to have a Suzu 109. Most everyone was saying you'd get maybe a few HP from a K-N filter, and that would be tops.

I started experimenting with K-N, modified K-N's, doubling, tripling, and the rolling up my own.

The OEM filters are about 60 ish CFM each, or 120 per set for the bike. Stock K-N are about 143 each/286 a set. My first mod'ed K-N's (doubles) had 470 CFM. After some itterations I ended up with a mod'ed DIY single K-N filter with 60 CFM plus.

Each time the air flow increase, the HP/TQ did as well. Up to the max of the 760 CFM, which equaled no air filter.

I suspect the Haya's are a closely maxed engine, OEM, but your nice surprise at the change to another (almost free flow) filter is great, and expected.

Congrats.
 
I swapped to a K&N filter for the quality and being able to clean it. Not for the HP. You might see 1-3hp difference, but you won't feel it. You can run the BMC, just stay on top of it and check it once a month.
 
Just keep in mind you put a race filter in there. As in designed for track use. So might want to just change it a little more often that if you were to use a normal K&N/Pipercross/BMC filter.

I've shipped a couple race filters out here and there, but ya always want to do that gentle reminder about that to anybody I ship one of those to. Stock the K&N & Pipercross.


Just to clarify, you don't have to change the filter you need to wash it and recharge it with the cleaning and recharging oil. I am running a BMC race and although I think they said to clean and recharge at 15,000 kilometers I clean mine about every 2500 miles. As stated they do not have a huge suspension factor but they sure make the bike breath a whole lot better. This and the airbox mod made a huge difference.
 
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