HOW ARE YOU GUYS LOWING THE FRONT DOWN 2IN?

Cyclone

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OK, I have looked all over this fourm and i dont see anyone talking about how they are lowering the busa down in the front 2in. I want mine not to bottom out if i hit a bump. So is the only way to lower it 2in is to take it to a suspention specalist? so the travel is right? IM planning on doing mine 2 in the rear and 2 in the front. but i want it done the right way. and correct me if im wrong, but  i should take it to a suspention specalist right? If so do you know any good shops that do that kind of stuff?
 
Come on brothers and sisters, i have heard peaple dropping the front down 2in. But i dont want to the fort sliding trick. Because i dont want my sh$$ jamming if i do the fork sliding trick.
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Not sure what the limit on lowering would be, but you can get a lowering upper triple tree.
 
But from what i understand is that , it will only go down 3/4 to be safe. And that is also so they dont bottom the fender out. I just need to know who to take to front forks to so i can get it lowered inside the forks. I do know that if i do lower the forks from the inside it has to be done right. so it will act normal. I dont know, i cant seem to get enough info on it. but thanks anyway
 
My thinking is that if i get a lowering triple tree, the stock forks will still jam up , because it a stock fork. Am i thinking right?
 
I know there is a guy in Hawaii that does it, but he also gets his parts from the states to do it. I have been tring to get ahold of him to find out who in the states does it. Or if someone can just but the kit and do it theirselvle. I will try to get more information again tomorrow.
 
you can lower the bike 2" with a new tripple tree. YOu can find those at schnitzracing.com and others... They are running between 200-300.

If you want to go cheap... You can lower the bike with 1.25" reaper risers ($40) or gen-mar risers. The gen-mar risers are a lot more expensive, about $200.

I beleive schnitzracing just came out with 1.5" and greater risers which are running about $70.
 
Cloud9 how can you lower it 2 with a tripletree? It isnt the top that is the problem, it is the lower tree that stops you from doing more then 3/4. after that you get into the ribbed part of the fork. I wouldn't trust that holding for long due to the ribs finally wearing down and the tree becoming lose again. Unless you want to tighten it everyday.
 
Cloud9 how can you lower it 2 with a tripletree? It isnt the top that is the problem, it is the lower tree that stops you from doing more then 3/4. after that you get into the ribbed part of the fork. I wouldn't trust that holding for long  due to the ribs finally wearing down and the tree becoming lose again. Unless you want to tighten it everyday.
nope... you need a new tripple tree which will alow the forks to travel further down thus lowering the bike. You can't use the stock tripple tree to lower because the holes are too narrow for the forks to pass through.

The risers will raise the stock tripple tree, thus allowing another 1"+ of fork travel.

The lower clamps that you are talking about are just that, clamps. You simply loosen with your allen wrench and she will drop, trust me...
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Cloud



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Ok, if i get a new triple tree, and im at the light and get a wheelie and come slamming down hard is it going to slam in my sh$$. That would be a no! no! I am just worried about the forks slamming into everything.
I allready know that the bottom will be ripping plasic.
 
yes... you will likely break the nose plastic if you come down hard. If you like to wheelie, lowering the bike may not be for you... If you are good and can set the bike down gently from a wheelie, maybe and that is definetly if it wasn't lowered that much.
 
I am looking at the big picture, what im trying to say is that if i ever go to the track and launch it to hard, and come down hard by accident. I think that is what im trying to say. because alot of those guys use straps, so if the wheelie to hard and come down hard it is already bottomed out so they dont mess stuff up.They dont have to sweat it.
 
ya, but from what im understanding is that if you pull up the wheel, it will bottom in the air. i dont know the right term for that but i think you know what i mean. I found out to do it the right way is to have to fork shortened. That way if you do, have a freek wheelie and it comes down hard you wont mess stuff up. I guess when you have it done they make it really stiff, but you can still ride good for the street.
Thank you everone for you replys:)
 
cloud, I am understanding that y0ou need a new upper. what I'm talking about it that if you look at your forks there is a smooth spot ont the forks where the clamps go. The lower one on a stock busa can only be lowered like 3/4 inch befor you run out of that smooth area and hit the ribbed area of the fork. the Upper tree has plenty of room to slode down and still stay within the smooth area. The lower one doesn't. All i'm saying is it isn't really all that safe to clamp in the ridged area of the fork, as it might wear down the ridge and become loose.
 
Cyclone if you are gonna lower your bike I might think twice about doing big wheelies. forget about the nose hiting the exhast will scrape underneath. (I speak from experience):;):
 
jusmoov, wheelies no good , Im just setting it up for street drag and strip. I found out that if you have your tubes cut by specalist, if i have 2iin of travel to the bottom i will only tap the pipes and bottom , if things get out of control. that is what i was trying to say. no wheelies are bad. I have strait line fever.
 
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