Dyno Pull after mods

Smugly

Registered
I have an 06 LE busa. Did the small air box mod and blocked off the pair. Hindle pipe and a PCIII. With this set up I pulled 159 hp and 96 torque. Last winter I chopped down the muffler and dropped the front tooth by -1 and ran the bike again on Saturday. I only pulled 149 hp and 89 torque.

I also ran my bobber with a 96in S&S and it pulled the same hp as the first time 85 hp but was down from 98 torque to 93. The bobber is still running a little fat, so I am sure I can get some better numbers.

This was a different Dyno then I used before and it was 10 degree C difference then the first time . The busa could have a dirty air filter to. But didn't think of that til after.

Guess what I am trying to say is since I geared it down it pulled much harder and I just assumed it would produce better numbers.

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On the Busa pretty much the same set up I have I have a Yoshi TRS Full System, PCIII USB, Pair Block offs and I put down almost the same number I made right at 160HP with 96 FT Lbs of torque
 
You can't compare different dyno numbers since there are way to many variables for lower/higher numbers. I'd take it back to the other dyno if you want peace of mind but with the temperature 10-degrees off, that alone could be your power loss...
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Don't get caught up with the numbers.. If your bike performs well on the street, it's money well spent. Dyno numbers are all over the map. Just search this forum.
 
Those are disapointing numbers seems like you didn't break your bike in right. Do a leak down and compression test to see what going on.
Lots of people glaze there cyclinders with soft brake in's .
 
but what defines a "soft" break-in? I was fairly easy on mine for the first 500 miles then rode it like normal except not redlining it, just normal driving with the ocassional 8-9k shift. With the mods I have the only time I dyno'd it she gave a very dissapointing 144.7hp 83.7tq... never dyno'd her since, im waiting for some $ to get a tune on the pc3.
 
I wouldn't worry about the numbers too much. Dynos are all over the map (pardon the pun).

If it runs strong for you and the A/F is right, that's what you're after.
 
Those are disapointing numbers seems like you didn't break your bike in right.  Do a leak down and compression test to see what going on.
Lots of people glaze there cyclinders with soft brake in's .
I got 172hp and 104 ft-lbs/tq with race slips, a pcIII and a BMC race filter. And it was broken in by the book
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Of course we all know the dyno was quite optomistic to say the least
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I'm sure a 149hp busa with the same mods as mine would run the same....and probably put up the same numbers as mine on the same dyno, on the same day, at the same time,
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Dyno numbers compared over the internet are meaningless....wayyyy too many variables to even make them close. And that break-in "Urban Legend" is a crock
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Those are disapointing numbers seems like you didn't break your bike in right.  Do a leak down and compression test to see what going on.
Lots of people glaze there cyclinders with soft brake in's .
I got 172hp and 104 ft-lbs/tq with race slips, a pcIII and a BMC race filter. And it was broken in by the book  
winkold.gif

Of course we all know the dyno was quite optomistic to say the least  
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 I'm sure a 149hp busa with the same mods as mine would run the same....and probably put up the same numbers as mine on the same dyno, on the same day, at the same time,  
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 Dyno numbers compared over the internet are meaningless....wayyyy too many variables to even make them close. And that break-in "Urban Legend" is a crock  
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What year bike

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2Wheels2Live @ Jun. 25 2008 said:
1459102[/ATTACH] AM]
Those are disapointing numbers seems like you didn't break your bike in right.  Do a leak down and compression test to see what going on.
Lots of people glaze there cyclinders with soft brake in's .
I got 172hp and 104 ft-lbs/tq with race slips, a pcIII and a BMC race filter. And it was broken in by the book  
winkold.gif

Of course we all know the dyno was quite optomistic to say the least  
laugh.gif
 I'm sure a 149hp busa with the same mods as mine would run the same....and probably put up the same numbers as mine on the same dyno, on the same day, at the same time,  
thumb_up.gif
 Dyno numbers compared over the internet are meaningless....wayyyy too many variables to even make them close. And that break-in "Urban Legend" is a crock  
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What year bike
03 coppertop
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2Wheels2Live @ Jun. 25 2008 said:
1459143[/ATTACH] AM]
Those are disapointing numbers seems like you didn't break your bike in right.  Do a leak down and compression test to see what going on.
Lots of people glaze there cyclinders with soft brake in's .
I got 172hp and 104 ft-lbs/tq with race slips, a pcIII and a BMC race filter. And it was broken in by the book  
winkold.gif

Of course we all know the dyno was quite optomistic to say the least  
laugh.gif
 I'm sure a 149hp busa with the same mods as mine would run the same....and probably put up the same numbers as mine on the same dyno, on the same day, at the same time,  
thumb_up.gif
 Dyno numbers compared over the internet are meaningless....wayyyy too many variables to even make them close. And that break-in "Urban Legend" is a crock  
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My point exactly..

I've seen Gen1 Busas with the same mods as me have dyno results from 152HP to 165HP..   I highly doubt Suzuki would mass produce motors with such a disparity in performance. Totally goes against sound quality control standards.

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Your air/fuel is below 13 from 7,000 rpm on up.  'Busas make good power above 13, around 13.2:1.  Instead of messing with a generic map, you should get a custom dyno map done, and get the air/fuel right, instead of hoping for a miracle at 12.7:1.
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I have noticed in the past that when I dynoed a bike that I babied during the "break-in" period the HP/TQ numbers were low, but the bikes I rode hard from mile number 1 have always posted better numbers. I'm sure that doesn't mean anything since different bikes, different days, different temps, different dynos etc.... This is just my two cents, no real scientific data to back it up though.
 
Your air/fuel is below 13 from 7,000 rpm on up. 'Busas make good power above 13, around 13.2:1. Instead of messing with a generic map, you should get a custom dyno map done, and get the air/fuel right, instead of hoping for a miracle at 12.7:1.
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Now some one could correct me if I am wrong... But over 7000 the ram air would make a difference in A/F of 12.7/1
 
I have noticed in the past that when I dynoed a bike that I babied during the "break-in" period the HP/TQ numbers were low, but the bikes I rode hard from mile number 1 have always posted better numbers. I'm sure that doesn't mean anything since different bikes, different days, different temps, different dynos etc.... This is just my two cents, no real scientific data to back it up though.
30+ years of drag racing and I can tell you if there was ANY truth to the break in fantasy, drag racers would be doing it..

Rings are either seated or not (and the busa is run in at the factory) other than that, a motor will only start to turn over easier with mileage as the bearing loosen up a bit.. (racers routinely change out bearings to get maximum clearance at the crank without knocking the rods out)

As stated above many times, dyno numbers mean very little... the best method I think is to get some baseline runs with a "Good" operator and make your changes and run again.. Baseline = 0 and then got + or - from there..

You could make the bike louder, it always makes the "butt" dyno read higher
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On one dyno i made 164 hp. On another dyno i made 148 hp with the same mods 2 months after the first run. The point is, stop worrying bout hp numbers and have safe fun on your bike. It all comes down to the rider if you wanna ride that hard.

The 08 zx10 is quicker to 180mph than both the 08 busa and the 08 zx14. Enjoy the ride..
 
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