bike night dyno run -

Ps youdaman Cache---wow 9.38 --hahahaha any cagers wanna play---they will be toast.  
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I try....
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I say you're low on hp. I would have tried the "B" map with the bde pipe.

with that pipe you should be in if not REALLY close to 160 hp. hooken203 has a bde pipe and pcIII and dynoed his bike at road america and got 165 hp.
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I have 8500 miles on it. Some of the guys were saying that this dyno reads low, one guy was down about 15hp on this dyno as compared to another one. The operator was saying that he thought he was about 4hp low as well, which would put me at 158. I do know that this dyno is only 2 months old. One guy was saying that it was "tight" and would "loosen up" over time. I'm beginning to think that these "experts" don't know their elbow from 3rd base. Which is why I was asking about it on here.

I had put the C map in last year, I suppose I should go back and try the B map.
my bike ran supreme with the B map in it with my BDE pipe and small box mod.
 
Like some of the other guys I wouldn't get over concerned with the peak numbers.

The way I see it, a dyno is for optimising your A/F ratio and tuning to peak power on that particular dyno.

Let the people with their hands on their c##ks worry about a couple of hp either way.

Lest face it, you can plug any correction factors you want into the thing and produce all kinds of results!.


Cheers
Ross
 
I've never seen a dyno pull in 6th gear. Every one I've seen uses 4th gear for the exact reasons that cache stated earlier.
 
Rosco is 100% correct. Don't be concerned at all with the rwhp numbers right now.

The dyno is a tuning tool, not so much a measuring tool...

It's the A/F ratio that you want to be looking at.

I see from your line that you're wicked lean from 85mph - 100mph... then it's too rich from 110- 120mph.

You should of had your tuner print out the A/F line in an RPM table so that you could tweek your map manually on the power commander using the A/F printout as a guide to where you need to add or subtract fuel to smooth out your powerband and get the best performance from your bike.
 
Rosco is 100% correct. Don't be concerned at all with the rwhp numbers right now.

The dyno is a tuning tool, not so much a measuring tool...

It's the A/F ratio that you want to be looking at.

I see from your line that you're wicked lean from 85mph - 100mph... then it's too rich from 110- 120mph.

You should of had your tuner print out the A/F line in an RPM table so that you could tweek your map manually on the power commander using the A/F printout as a guide to where you need to add or subtract fuel to smooth out your powerband and get the best performance from your bike.
This wasn't a tuning session, it was more a d*ck measuring thing at bike night  (and yes, mine was biggest - all the Hardley guys were soooooo jealous
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I know it's a tuning tool, I just really thought I should have been closer to 160, but I realize that all dynos are different, etc.

I am wondering if being a tad over 13:1 is REALLY "wicked lean" - I guess I would not consider it to be.  Also, since there is no ram air compensation on the dyno, I wasn't too concerned about being a tad rich up in the higher speeds,  I would think that pumping a bunch more air into the airbox would probablr more than compensate - no?  

Or are you saying not quite so rich just for 110 to 120, but up around 140 the reading is ok - taking the ram air effect into consideration?



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I just had mine dyno'd up at CycleFest in Copper Mountain last weekend.

My 2003 Busa (6.5k miles) was done in 4th, and was at 153.35...completely stock. Copper Mountain is over 10k feet too.

I had a buddy do his 2005 Busa (2.5k miles)before mine and his was 150.??, however he has a 4 into 1 yosh system, air box mod, pcIIIr. Needless to say he was pissed.

All in all, his just needs to be tuned, mine doesn't. I think that maybe you just need to readjust your map...you not too far off. And, like others have said..not all dyno's will give same results. Good luck.
 
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