Drilled holes in handlebars
- Thread starter Robot
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Busasweety
Registered
great thought, looks good.......almost agree to ask, stress on outer most part of the bars.....
bigoltool
Registered
Not sure I'm on board with this one. you are concentrating the entire load at the very end of the bar which places the stress at the bar/riser interface. A canyon dancer puts the load much closer to the stress point. Nice workmanship for sure just cant imagine the stresses involved there.
Gotta admit, didn't think about possible vibration issues, good catch. I'm sure there is tuning done at design to reduce\eliminate resonant frequency vibration in the bars.
I think the rubber isolation of the bars would greatly reduce most of this on the Busa. I rode the Busa to work yesterday and noticed nothing different with respect to the bars.
I have never used a "canyon dancer" but can see the point of contacting further inward on the bar's assembly.
I thought of this as a replacement for "straps on grips". By getting straps out and away from the fairing, etc, there wont be any rubbing to worry about.
By extending the length of the bars(with the eyebolt) there is greater leverage and possibility of greater force, BUT, this increase in effective lever arm, doesn't mean there has to be greater force on anything. (less force on a longer lever arm achieves the same result). i.e if I put a cheater bar on my ratchet, I can achieve the same torque on the bolt using less force as I go farther out on the handle/cheater bar(torque amplifier).
Given, this force now STARTS at the eyebolt and is transmitted all the way in, through the entire length of the bars.
My gut tells me this should work OK, but the bottom line is, it IS and experiment. (One experiment is worth 100 calculations).
I appreciate the input, Ill let you know how it works when I tie it down, Ill be securing the bike with a chock also. Thanks
suzuki4life
Banned
well, I think what you did is creative however it is a bad idea.
you have created several compound joints (3 flex points, fulcrums basically) with a steel bolt as the leverage point into an aluminuim bar. I just forsee this breaking.
Best place to strap these bikes (or pretty much any bike) is from the lower tree.
you have created several compound joints (3 flex points, fulcrums basically) with a steel bolt as the leverage point into an aluminuim bar. I just forsee this breaking.
Best place to strap these bikes (or pretty much any bike) is from the lower tree.
Do you work for Mcmaster-Carr ?, I order by telephone out of their Atlanta office.
Finishing plug 5/8 (endcap) Mcmaster # 9688K261 $7.23/pk
Zinc plated 10mmx1.5mm pitch Eyebolt Mcmaster # 3107T43 $3.71ea
Button Head 10mm x 50mm lg.bolt Mcmaster # 91239A525 $6.21/pk
Created 3 flex points?, do you mean going through 3 flex points (as tieing to the grip would?). Eyebolt breaking?, bar breaking?
Hard to argue against using the lower tree, it seems many have used the grips without an issue. Thanks, John
suzuki4life
Banned
you flex whereever there is a joint So handlebar to bar end #1 bar end to loop #2 and you flex in between those 2 joints #3 because of the allowed movement because the joint exists.
suzuki4life
Banned
and yes people have used the bar with sucess, and others have actually bent them from overtightening. The bars are very strong but once you make them 3 pc...you removed tremendous strength and gave obvious fail points
Thanks for the input, hopefully between the chock, 2 handlebars, and 2 rear footpeg mounts, there wont be too much stress at any given location.
After I put them to use, Ill see how well they hold up.
suzuki4life
Banned
I wish you the best of luck.
And if it doesn't work, what's the worst that can happen? The bike fall over in the back of a truck, couple of scratches, replace a handlebar... Hardly, deadly serious consequences. Not like all the fools I see buying a Busa for a first bike, riding arould with cords showing in the tires with T-shirts and flip flops.
If it works, Good on ya! Post up your sucesses with your new bar end tie down mounting points.
If it doesn't work, toss the broken bits in the trash, and NEVER mention it again. You don't want the naysayers on this board swarming around you like a flock of seagulls mobbing an open McDonalds dumpster saying " I told you so! I told you so!"
cheers
ken
If it works, Good on ya! Post up your sucesses with your new bar end tie down mounting points.
If it doesn't work, toss the broken bits in the trash, and NEVER mention it again. You don't want the naysayers on this board swarming around you like a flock of seagulls mobbing an open McDonalds dumpster saying " I told you so! I told you so!"
cheers
ken
suzuki4life
Banned
or it could be on a trailer, strap/bar let's go and it comes off the trailer. I had an almost situation happen once when a strap broke.
darth frosty
Registered
Wow nice craftsmenship
bigoltool
Registered
But what if the excessive forces fatigue the bar in question and it fails while your riding over a pothole or railroad tracks when you need it most?
Anything is possible, without load/stress calculations and what if scenarios. It's only a gut feel, that I will not induce such loads with my rigging in the truck.
The only real change to the bike, is that an existing hole is slightly bigger in diameter. Keep in mind, the hole in the bar is less than 2" deep, so the bar wont crack mid-point on the grip or anything.
Given, eyebolt protrudes and extra inch, slightly increasing effective lever arm, but in my opinion, not enough to cause excessive load under "reasonable" use. Many Busa comrades have tied to grips for years without any evidence of damage (at least not known to me.) I feel my scenario will induce only slightly greater loads/stress.
I guess I should have put a disclaimer on the thread, try at your own risk
Without input, we could never improve (it is appreciated), Ill consider myself the test subject, and we can see how things work out
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