Drilled holes in handlebars

[bigoltool]

If I had some good data and a good CAD model I could have one of the DE's run it through our Ansys FEA here at work and see what the yield would be.

 

[Robot]

If I had some good data and a good CAD model I could have one of the DE's run it through our Ansys FEA here at work and see what the yield would be.

Yep, I agree. I have SolidEdge,Solidworks, and Autocad here at work. Any good simulation would need knowledge of handlebar alloy etc,etc,etc. (which obviously I dont have) . I thought in an ideal circumstance, I could do a failure analysis, hook a strain gage in series with a come along and see what breaks and at what load. (but obviously prefer not to do to my Busa)

It would be interesting to see who has 12'oclocked(or similar) a busa and had it land on a handlebar(to see what gave).

I also thought while riding (not loaded with eyebolt), the bar might actually be stonger (from the grade 8 steel 10mm bolt displacing the old 6mm bolt.)

 

[suzuki4life]

It would be interesting to see who has 12'oclocked(or similar) a busa and had it land on a handlebar(to see what gave).

    I also thought while riding (not loaded with eyebolt), the bar might actually be stonger (from the grade 8 steel 10mm bolt displacing the old 6mm bolt.)

the bar/rod threads in relation to material properties is the thing I question. If your bolt is 2" deep into the bar times 2 bars, then your bike is in theory being held by 4 maybe 5" of alloy material strength. When a conyon dancer is used, the strap incorparates both bars equally (in theory), therefore two bars at 8-10" each= 16"-20" of material strength. 14"-18" of that material does not have a hole going through it.

you allude me with your logic.

an 8-10" alloy rod would gain strength by adding steel at the end how? You weakened the end of the bar/rod by overboring it at very best.


yes if you overtight canyon dancers or constantly hauled your bike, in theory you could fatigue the bars. I would be more concerned that your I hook will pull out.

 

[Robot]

It would be interesting to see who has 12'oclocked(or similar) a busa and had it land on a handlebar(to see what gave).

    I also thought while riding (not loaded with eyebolt), the bar might actually be stonger (from the grade 8 steel 10mm bolt displacing the old 6mm bolt.)

the bar/rod threads in relation to material properties is the thing I question. If your bolt is 2" deep into the bar times 2 bars, then your bike is in theory being held by 4 maybe 5" of alloy material strength. When a conyon dancer is used, the strap incorparates both bars equally (in theory), therefore two bars at 8-10" each= 16"-20" of material strength. 14"-18" of that material does not have a hole going through it.

you allude me with your logic.

an 8-10" alloy rod would gain strength by adding steel at the end how? You weakened the end of the bar/rod by overboring it at very best.


yes if you overtight canyon dancers or constantly hauled your bike, in theory you could fatigue the bars. I would be more concerned that your I hook will pull out.

A solid bar of a consistant material has a given "strength". Strength could mean many things, modulus, resistance to sheer forces, deflection, etc.

     Depending on how it is done, altering that "consistant" cross section could increase stregnth. In regard to heat treating, case hardening would do this.

    In this situation, originally the cross section was not homogenous(because a 6mm bolt went through it). "Strength" of the steel(depending on grade) is greater than the aluminum(depending on the alloy).

    With the 10mm grade 8 bolt added, you now have a greater percentage of cross section in steel.

    Some (most likely small) losses occur in any small voids between the threads.

Yep, there is a possibility threads will wallow or give on the eyebolts, I will have to watch closely, but have a good "unscientific" feel about it.

 

[suzuki4life]

I see alot of "bla blah blah" here...

stock bars will bend where they meet the triple clamp cover, not on the end of the bar. Your "strengthening" of the bar and explaination only covers like 2" per bar and at the exact opposite end of the potential fail point of a stock handlebar.

let's say a stock bar is 1" in diameter. For the stock bar to break, you would need to bend and find threshold of 1" of material. Since you have now changed where the stress point is located and decreased the amount of material of the bar in relation to stock, you have taken ATLEAST half of the strength away from the application. Your strength is now located in the wall thickness of the bar you drilled and tapped. The same bars that have been bent before.

Once again, this is NOT a good idea.

 

[Robot]

I see alot of "bla blah blah" here...

stock bars will bend where they meet the triple clamp cover, not on the end of the bar. Your "strengthening" of the bar and explaination only covers like 2" per bar and at the exact opposite end of the potential fail point of a stock handlebar.

let's say a stock bar is 1" in diameter. For the stock bar to break, you would need to bend and find threshold of 1" of material. Since you have now changed where the stress point is located and decreased the amount of material of the bar in relation to stock, you have taken ATLEAST half of the strength away from the application. Your strength is now located in the wall thickness of the bar you drilled and tapped. The same bars that have been bent before.

Once again, this is NOT a good idea.

Correct my explanation covers riding with the 10mm bolts and caps on. I have increased effective lever arm with the eyebolts, and accept where you say bending would occur, in an overstress situation.

My belief (correct or not), is that I will not create that overstress situation.


All is good, this is an open forum

 

[suzuki4life]

I see alot of "bla blah blah" here...

stock bars will bend where they meet the triple clamp cover, not on the end of the bar. Your "strengthening" of the bar and explaination only covers like 2" per bar and at the exact opposite end of the potential fail point of a stock handlebar.

let's say a stock bar is 1" in diameter. For the stock bar to break, you would need to bend and find threshold of 1" of material. Since you have now changed where the stress point is located and decreased the amount of material of the bar in relation to stock, you have taken ATLEAST half of the strength away from the application. Your strength is now located in the wall thickness of the bar you drilled and tapped. The same bars that have been bent before.

Once again, this is NOT a good idea.

Correct my explanation covers riding with the 10mm bolts and caps on. I have increased effective lever arm with the eyebolts, and accept where you say bending would occur, in an overstress situation.

    My belief (correct or not), is that I will not create that overstress situation.


    All is good, this is an open forum  

point of the hooks is not for riding, it is for towing or securing of your vehicle while it is being transported.

 

[suzuki4life]

 

[suzuki4life]

best I could do without my crayons.

 

[Robot]

I see alot of "bla blah blah" here...

stock bars will bend where they meet the triple clamp cover, not on the end of the bar. Your "strengthening" of the bar and explaination only covers like 2" per bar and at the exact opposite end of the potential fail point of a stock handlebar.

let's say a stock bar is 1" in diameter. For the stock bar to break, you would need to bend and find threshold of 1" of material. Since you have now changed where the stress point is located and decreased the amount of material of the bar in relation to stock, you have taken ATLEAST half of the strength away from the application. Your strength is now located in the wall thickness of the bar you drilled and tapped. The same bars that have been bent before.

Once again, this is NOT a good idea.

Correct my explanation covers riding with the 10mm bolts and caps on. I have increased effective lever arm with the eyebolts, and accept where you say bending would occur, in an overstress situation.

    My belief (correct or not), is that I will not create that overstress situation.


    All is good, this is an open forum  

point of the hooks is not for riding, it is for towing or securing of your vehicle while it is being transported.

Correct, I think maybe I miscommunicated what I believe, to summarize:

1. While riding (without eyebolts), I may have increased the strength of the 2" that I modified on the bar (Due to added 10mm bolt).

2. Eyebolt(used only during transport) is a different situation. Lever arm is increased, stress on threads is unknown and variable. Threads on eyebolt do not completely fill tapped 10mm area in bar. ( I am operating on gut feel from years of experience on this one)

3. This mod is not for everyone.

3. I kinda feel I have beat this one to death

After I get some use from the eyebolts, Ill do an update.

 

[suzuki4life]

when riding, out the hooks in a use blue loctite. Shouldn't come out nor be an issue. No real stress is placed on that area of the bars anyway.

 

[dadofthree]

Hope you don't have vibration issues with this mod.

 

[Robot]

Hope you don't have vibration issues with this mod.

That was a great point brought up earlier in this thread, none noticed so far.

 

[suzuki4life]

if they are of equal weight and lengths...no reason you should feel more vibrations, adding weight normally reduces vibrations.

 

[redvoodoo]

Well, I'll give you an A for effort. I bought a canyon Dancer tie down a few years back. It simply slips over each bar and straight across. You then simply hook the tie downs to the ends. Seems alot simpler, but it never occurred to me to do your mod. I'll stick with the canyon dancer, only $25.00 and only takes 3 seconds to use.