Daily rider... 190, 240, 300?

AreaCode215

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Good morning busa community. New to the busa fam... quick question I'm sure was discussed. What is a practical set up for daily riding. Stock 190 with stock swing arm, 240 slightly stretched, or 300 slightly stretched? Lowered or stock height?
 
Whats your goal? Just to look good and ride slow? then fat tire it. If you want to carve and be a hoodlum, do not fat tire it. I have owned all of the above, and fat tires destroy the handling period.
 
I’m my opinion if you want to go slow and have every normal human look at you like you’re obsessed with Batman then get the 300. If you want to waste your money on a tire you don’t need get the 240. If you want to ride your bike and get the most out of it buy a 190 and not add useless weight to the bike.

To me the 300 with the diamond cut accessories looks like it belongs to a cartel member. But that’s my opinion
 
My street bike was stretched 8" and it rode so much better than stock and the open road.
Up to 6" stretch is fine for street riding and turns. It's the lowered part I found being the limiting factor. I'm not talking knee down turning. Just street and mild spirited cornering.
 
A 240 looks pretty good on a gen 1 tail imo, unless u really carving it up, it’s perfectly rideable.

Years ago someone made a 210 tire, looked pretty good.

If u wana go 300 or 330, don’t jackshaft it, do an outer bearing support like how we build dragbikes so u can use one chain.

Gotta remember these bikes are different tools for different peoples different intended usage. Corner carver, tourer, dragstrip weapon, hot rod custom, etc.
 
Welcome to the forum @AreaCode215. Feel free to post some aspects of your experience in riding and if you do it, bike work. That context helps members understand where you are coming from, and to not be redundant to what you already know.

This bike is heavy and stable as it is. It is not like jittery like a 460 lb race replica. So like some others, I too suggest the stock setup and with that, embrace the tuned performance aspect of the stock configuration when you occasionally ride aggressively. Otherwise it will not hamper you.

Only lower the bike if reach to the ground is an issue.

Of related topics: Depending on the bike configuration and your weight, potentially having the suspension sprung to your weight is good for every aspect of riding, such as comfort and performance.
 
Thank you for the insight. The look of custom bikes are cool but everyday commuter I figured would be rough. Philly streets already crazy with potholes and so are the highways. So I need the setup to be practical and not cost me money every few hundred miles.
 
Thank you for the insight. The look of custom bikes are cool but everyday commuter I figured would be rough. Philly streets already crazy with potholes and so are the highways. So I need the setup to be practical and not cost me money every few hundred miles.

The suspension tuning and settings can be used to accommodate a great deal of these road imperfections. The settings will end up on the the softer side, which is fine. When the suspension moves up and down quickly upon encountering bumps and holes, the hardware such as the wheels, the wheel bearings, etc., will then not be taking the impacts.

Admittedly if there are lot of holes that would outright swallow a 190, I would not argue with a larger wheel for safety, but no matter what, we have to remain on high alert to at least try and avoid the sink holes.
 
A 240 looks pretty good on a gen 1 tail imo, unless u really carving it up, it’s perfectly rideable.

Years ago someone made a 210 tire, looked pretty good.

If u wana go 300 or 330, don’t jackshaft it, do an outer bearing support like how we build dragbikes so u can use one chain.

Gotta remember these bikes are different tools for different peoples different intended usage. Corner carver, tourer, dragstrip weapon, hot rod custom, etc.

A 210 rear tire, things the internet forgot
lmao...they did look pretty good though
 
Thank you for the insight. The look of custom bikes are cool but everyday commuter I figured would be rough. Philly streets already crazy with potholes and so are the highways. So I need the setup to be practical and not cost me money every few hundred miles.
That in itself it the answer...rideability for the conditions......

There are times around here when I venture down the roads that a motocross bike would be better suited with how rough the pavement is...
 
Very much depends on the rider and what you want or expect from your bike. I know a few folk with longer arms or fatter tyres, but they don’t come on our rides. The 5 bikes I use most all have 6” rears, all have 190/50’s or 190/55’s, even the one that came from the factory with a 200/50 now wears a 190/55. I don’t doubt you could daily any size if you want, and I know some folk are really happy with them. If you don’t do straight lines or pose outside coffee shops the best tyres aren’t the fat ones.

Height? My bikes run stock at the front and rear with the exception being a couple with a slight lift in the rear. Factory geometry is certainly on the conservative side and a slight lift at the back improved steering and clearance without instability a larger lift does.
 
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