couple night pics of me baby w/toys ???
- Thread starter ICEMANN
- Start date
Damn you!
I thought I had all my mods planned and ws just about done. Now I HAVE to know about this digigear. What does it do? Is it just an idicator? How do you connect it? Where do you buy it? How much?
Also, what do I need to know about HID? Are they just really bright or what? How much? From where?
DAMN!
You don't get off that easy. How much? From where? How do you install?
I have a couple of pics to post too...my next stop!
http://www.revlimiterracing.com/datatool/datatool.html
got it from here, it now comes in blue LED, of course, install.
there are about 6 wires that have to be connected to the wires coming out of the instrument cluster. You just move the insulation back alittle and wrap the wire around and solder. I put a plug on the digigear so I can unplug it. The inner panel has a small alum box epoxied to the back with a hole in it. Velcro inside box for digi to set flush. Plug in and go. As you shift it updates. Very accurate. Wish I had blue though. Dims at night.
JD
got it from here, it now comes in blue LED, of course, install.
there are about 6 wires that have to be connected to the wires coming out of the instrument cluster. You just move the insulation back alittle and wrap the wire around and solder. I put a plug on the digigear so I can unplug it. The inner panel has a small alum box epoxied to the back with a hole in it. Velcro inside box for digi to set flush. Plug in and go. As you shift it updates. Very accurate. Wish I had blue though. Dims at night.
JD
This is very cool Ice. Hey! I made a funny. Cool. Ice.
Brian
DIGI GEAR MOUNT:
Well I followed advise from others installs and with a little this and that ended up with it.
I first decided on where I thought the best place was to mount the digigear. To do this,
I removed the left upper inner panel. I took a piece of flat alum strip about 1" wide x 3" long x1/8 thick. Local lowes store, $1 for 3 foot piece.
I drilled a hole in it on one end and mounted the strip under the cluster bolt on the left side so the strip was sticking out to the left. (looks like a mounting tab)
Put double sided tape on strip at end opposite cluster and keep sticking the digigear to find the spot you want it.
Make sure it is parallel to the left edge of the cluster. (left vertical edge of cluster and right vertical edge of digigear were running the same) keeps digi from looking crooked.
Digigear is located exacatly 1/2 way from cluster edge to outside left fairing edge..
Put silly puddy on back of inner panel and hover it into place and press it down making the outline of the digigear for cutout in the silly puddy.
Cut out inner w/exacto knife making hole a little smaller. Continue to fit digi so perfect fit.
Remove and pitch the flat alum strip it was for placement only.
snip and fold a piece of flat alum into a box shape with the the lid open look (all four flaps of an open box are going outward like looking at an open cardboard box from the top view w/flaps out). The depth of the box is the height of the digigear.
Drill a hole in the bottom of the box for the wire.
Epoxy the open part of the box onto the backside of the inner panel around the cut out square hole. So now looking from the front into the cut out you see the bottom of the box. From the back side of the inner is looks like the box is hanging from the inner and the open flaps are what is glued to the back of the inner.
Velcro the digi into the box from the front. Connect the wires underneith. I put a plug on mine so I can unplug the digigear and remove the inner and digi together leaving a plug and the wire running to the instrument cluster where it is soldered into place.
JD, I will take some pics.
Well I followed advise from others installs and with a little this and that ended up with it.
I first decided on where I thought the best place was to mount the digigear. To do this,
I removed the left upper inner panel. I took a piece of flat alum strip about 1" wide x 3" long x1/8 thick. Local lowes store, $1 for 3 foot piece.
I drilled a hole in it on one end and mounted the strip under the cluster bolt on the left side so the strip was sticking out to the left. (looks like a mounting tab)
Put double sided tape on strip at end opposite cluster and keep sticking the digigear to find the spot you want it.
Make sure it is parallel to the left edge of the cluster. (left vertical edge of cluster and right vertical edge of digigear were running the same) keeps digi from looking crooked.
Digigear is located exacatly 1/2 way from cluster edge to outside left fairing edge..
Put silly puddy on back of inner panel and hover it into place and press it down making the outline of the digigear for cutout in the silly puddy.
Cut out inner w/exacto knife making hole a little smaller. Continue to fit digi so perfect fit.
Remove and pitch the flat alum strip it was for placement only.
snip and fold a piece of flat alum into a box shape with the the lid open look (all four flaps of an open box are going outward like looking at an open cardboard box from the top view w/flaps out). The depth of the box is the height of the digigear.
Drill a hole in the bottom of the box for the wire.
Epoxy the open part of the box onto the backside of the inner panel around the cut out square hole. So now looking from the front into the cut out you see the bottom of the box. From the back side of the inner is looks like the box is hanging from the inner and the open flaps are what is glued to the back of the inner.
Velcro the digi into the box from the front. Connect the wires underneith. I put a plug on mine so I can unplug the digigear and remove the inner and digi together leaving a plug and the wire running to the instrument cluster where it is soldered into place.
JD, I will take some pics.
SierraFlyer
Registered
Thinker, I bought one of Ice's HID units and installed it in a couple of evenings. I took time to think things through and it came out perfect. Couldn't be happier. HID is MUCH brighter than the 100 watt Xenon/halogen bulbs and is daylight colored. Visibility is better too in more natural colored light. So much so that you don't need the brights anymore (It just washes out in the HID beam and completely worthless and that is why we buy a all-weather yellowish bulb for the high beam). I should mention that the HID bulb won't fit in the high beam socket. It only fits the low beam socket and needs the low beam reflector to work. The bigh beam magnifying lens also doesn't work with an HID bulb.
When setting mine up, I gave a lot of thought to the wiring. Stock configuration, Low beam is always on and we switch the high beam on and off with the switch on the left grip. HID is obnoxiously bright in some situations and better if it is switched. Not wanting to add extra switches, I just used the stock left grip switch. I simply took the high and low beam wires in the nose cowling connector and swapped them. The connector pins can pull out and slide back in the connector in place of each other. Since the HID draws only 35 watts, the stock wires can be used and all of this can be reversed with little effort and no mods. So now when I have the high beam switch off, the HID is off. The "old" high beam is on all of the time. Now it is my fog/rain/snow light. It is re-aimed as low as it goes now and won't blind on-comming traffic. The "new" high beam is the HID and is switched on when I want it. Ice also has done a ton of research on the best control box to get. His allow multiple "hot" restarts with out a cool down delay. They have other great features the other brands don't have.
IT IS TOO COOL!!! It is like riding in the day time but at night. Its alot safer too. You can see things/animals in the road farther out and cages can't miss you. They woud have to be blind.
When setting mine up, I gave a lot of thought to the wiring. Stock configuration, Low beam is always on and we switch the high beam on and off with the switch on the left grip. HID is obnoxiously bright in some situations and better if it is switched. Not wanting to add extra switches, I just used the stock left grip switch. I simply took the high and low beam wires in the nose cowling connector and swapped them. The connector pins can pull out and slide back in the connector in place of each other. Since the HID draws only 35 watts, the stock wires can be used and all of this can be reversed with little effort and no mods. So now when I have the high beam switch off, the HID is off. The "old" high beam is on all of the time. Now it is my fog/rain/snow light. It is re-aimed as low as it goes now and won't blind on-comming traffic. The "new" high beam is the HID and is switched on when I want it. Ice also has done a ton of research on the best control box to get. His allow multiple "hot" restarts with out a cool down delay. They have other great features the other brands don't have.
IT IS TOO COOL!!! It is like riding in the day time but at night. Its alot safer too. You can see things/animals in the road farther out and cages can't miss you. They woud have to be blind.
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