change 2006 spark plugs...

Revolution

revolution custom paint
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i'm going to attempt to change the plugs on my bike today. i have a 2006, but i have the 1999-2000 pdf service manual...will it apply?

i'll be picking up plugs for a 2006. the pdf manual looks pretty easy to do. anything to look out for?

thanks
 
i changed mine on a 02 with the same manual,,,its a no brainer really,just take airbox off and unplug the  (not sure what its called on top of plugs) pull that out and unscrew plugs with a long extention

20 min start to finish
 
Easy to do, Rev. Like DD said, the manual you have will show you what needs to be done. Remove airbox, remove coils, remove plugs. I use the spark plug wrench from the toolkit and stick a socket on the end. Works great. Also, you may want to shoot some compressed air down there before removing the plugs - just to blow out any debris that may be in there.
 
Easy to do, Rev.  Like DD said, the manual you have will show you what needs to be done.  Remove airbox, remove coils, remove plugs.  I use the spark plug wrench from the toolkit and stick a socket on the end.  Works great.  Also, you may want to shoot some compressed air down there before removing the plugs - just to blow out any debris that may be in there.
"coils"..yeah,thats the thing...thanks
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I agree with Omslaw Rev- piece of cake to do but IF you have a good air supply handy blow out the cavity BEFORE you remove the old plugs....do the plugs (remove/install new) one at a time... Unplug the coil wire first (just a clip you have to squeeze, then unplug) and remove the coil...and if you have the air blow out the cavity good BEFORE you remove the old plug. You'd be surprised how much trash can get in there--- that way you don't take any chances on getting trash in the engine. A standard long spark plug socket(the ones with the rubber grip inside the socket) is the best to use cause it will hold the plug as you remove the old and install the new... Make sure you don't crossthread the new sparkplug when installing...it should thread in all the way with just your fingers turning the socket and extension...(oh yeah, you will need an extension about 6 or 8" long). After you get it finger tight, you will need to snug it on down about another 1/2 to 3/4 turn...Just DON'T overtighten it....peace, Chris
 
I agree with Omslaw Rev- piece of cake to do but IF you have a good air supply handy blow out the cavity BEFORE you remove the old plugs....do the plugs (remove/install new) one at a time... Unplug the coil wire first (just a clip you have to squeeze, then unplug) and remove the coil...and if you have the air blow out the cavity good BEFORE you remove the old plug. You'd be surprised how much trash can get in there--- that way you don't take any chances on getting trash in the engine. A standard long spark plug socket(the ones with the rubber grip inside the socket) is the best to use cause it will hold the plug as you remove the old and install the new... Make sure you don't crossthread the new sparkplug when installing...it should thread in all the way with just your fingers turning the socket and extension...(oh yeah, you will need an extension about 6 or 8" long). After you get it finger tight, you will need to snug it on down about another 1/2 to 3/4 turn...Just DON'T overtighten it....peace, Chris
If you don't have a socket with rubber use a 6 inch piece of gas line hose. When the plug is loose you can push the hose down to crab the plug. You can also use the hose to put the plug back in eliminating any cross threading.
 
i was just gonna use some oil on the threads but now that i think about it i'll run down the block and get anti seize.
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Anyone use any anti-seize on the plugs?
Always, and I found a real easy and clean way to apply it to the threads. Get a model car paint brush, you know, those real small ones and use it to apply the anti sieze to the threads on the plugs. No muss no fuss and no anti sieze on your fingers or excess on the threads. Works great!
 
yo bogus, i saw in your pic your plugs are "CR9e", mine say "CR9ek"....?!
 
was just told cr9ek better than cr9e. something about dual grounded electrodes.
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I had just changed to the iridium plugs last year befor the 99 went bye bye. The month I got to use them seemed to run really good. They were NGK's but dont remember the # now. They are a little pricey but I liked them. I most cetainly agree with the other guys about the anti-seize, good stuff, and change on a cold engine is what I was always told. I stripped all the threads out of a honda that was warm, back in the day when I was young and "Thought" I knew what I was doing...oy vey, live and learn.
 
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