Burning up the lowers?

It's a good question and I'm curious about how many people are having the problem of the lower fairings melting due to after-market exhaust designs. If they have a way to prevent it please share.
 
I guess that was the question. What do you have to do to fix the problem, trim some of the lower section?
How bout some kind of heat resistant sheilding on the inside of the fairing.

I dont know, thats why I asked.
 
Lofty:

the "Akro" relies on hand fabricated sections which "slip" into mating sections to the can, these mating slip joints allow for movement to get a precise "fit" whether racing or city driving.

My "Muzzy, on the other hand, is a one piece of 4 headers leading to one slip joint, then that slips into the can. While on the dyno the left side fairing burst into flame!

If there had been the "slip" joints as described above, this would not have happened. I had to "cut" the fairing to eliminate the problem with the Muzzy.

Warbird:

a product is made to apply onto and seal the slip joints.

Many people swear by this method, I for one believe it is a big mistake, the advantage of the slip joints is to get the exhaust system independent form the motor, thus a free floating system.

for example,

the exhaust, when you are "on it" gets red hot, this causes "movement" at the exhaust.

I beleive it is best to allow this movement as the exhaust requires. It will cool and move again. that's what the springs are for, to allow this small movement without damage or vibration!

some people recommend a slip joint "sealer" to assure "no leak", but this makes the system too rigid!

when it carbons up, you won't hear any leak and it will perform better with less to no vibrations!!!
 
Thanks Aquadiosmed, great info! I am in process of choosing Akrapovic with Titanium canister and hpc on everything but the canister,or TooBee Ti- Force. Tough choice.
Hows your Akrapovic sound anyway?
 
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