Buell peg mod question

[FloydV]

For those of you who did the Buell peg mod to lower the pegs, did you keep the stock foot shift and just adjust it, or did you have to switch something there?

Also, the Buell pegs don't have any rubber cushion. Did you notice increased vibration through your boots?

 

[mobusa]

Have done the Buell Peg mod and yes you keep the stock shifter. As for vibration, I don't notice anything at all. One of best mods you can do imho!!! Good Luck!

 

[FloydV]

Thanks. I think an inch would make a big difference.

 

[EdC]

I found myself shifting pigeon-toed because the Buell pegs are spaced outward a little more than the stock ones, so I modified the shifter. After removing it, I cut off the rubber sleeve and took the shifter to a machine shop. They cut off the "nail head" on the end of the rod the rubber sleeve was on and welded a 3" piece of aluminum tubing over the rod (they started with a piece of 1/2" bar stock and drilled a hole just larger than the rod through it). They charged me $21 labor and a couple of bucks for the tubing. I then went to Home Depot and bought a foot of 5/8" clear plastic tubing (the smallest quantity they sell), glued it on the aluminum tubing (its inside diameter is, believe it or not, exactly 1/2") and cut it off flush with the end of the aluminum tubing. I then reinstalled the shifter and adjusted the linkage rod to lower it about an inch.

I covered it with plastic tubing for two reasons - bare aluminum will leave a black mark on your shoes (the ones I wear to ride are brown) and being larger in diameter, the shifter is much more comfortable on upshifts than it was before.

For some odd reason, I don't feel like the rear brake pedal is too short but did mind the shifter length.

Ed



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[Frantik1]

I adjusted my shifter by removing the pinch bolt on the shaft to the trannie and moved it 1 notch. I didn't have to adjust the linkage rod at all. This way if I want to put my stock pegs back on, all I have to do is move it back a notch. On the brke side, I had to cut some of adjustment rod to get the pedal where I wanted it. As far as vibration, I have not noticed any, except if my heel touches the mid pipe.

 

[Frantik1]

I adjusted my shifter by removing the pinch bolt on the shaft to the trannie and moved it 1 notch. I didn't have to adjust the linkage rod at all. This way if I want to put my stock pegs back on, all I have to do is move it back a notch. On the brake side, I had to cut some of adjustment rod to get the pedal where I wanted it.  As far as vibration, I have not noticed any, except if my heel touches the mid pipe.

 

[FloydV]

I found myself shifting pigeon-toed because the Buell pegs are spaced outward a little more than the stock ones, so I modified the shifter. After removing it, I cut off the rubber sleeve and took the shifter to a machine shop. They cut off the "nail head" on the end of the rod the rubber sleeve was on and welded a 3" piece of aluminum tubing over the rod (they started with a piece of 1/2" bar stock and drilled a hole just larger than the rod through it). They charged me $21 labor and a couple of bucks for the tubing. I then went to Home Depot and bought a foot of 5/8" clear plastic tubing (the smallest quantity they sell), glued it on the aluminum tubing (its inside diameter is, believe it or not, exactly 1/2") and cut it off flush with the end of the aluminum tubing. I then reinstalled the shifter and adjusted the linkage rod to lower it about an inch.

I covered it with plastic tubing for two reasons - bare aluminum will leave a black mark on your shoes (the ones I wear to ride are brown) and being larger in diameter, the shifter is much more comfortable on upshifts than it was before.

For some odd reason, I don't feel like the rear brake pedal is too short but did mind the shifter length.

Ed

Thanks for the info. All you guys are so helpful. Now, I'm going to search for the peg mod and find out just what I need to do to get the pegs on. Then, I will probably modify the shifter "pin", and/or move the shifter on its shaft.

 

[FloydV]

I found myself shifting pigeon-toed because the Buell pegs are spaced outward a little more than the stock ones, so I modified the shifter.  After removing it, I cut off the rubber sleeve and took the shifter to a machine shop.  They cut off the "nail head" on the end of the rod the rubber sleeve was on and welded a 3" piece of aluminum tubing over the rod (they started with a piece of 1/2" bar stock and drilled a hole just larger than the rod through it).  They charged me $21 labor and a couple of bucks for the tubing.  I then went to Home Depot and bought a foot of 5/8" clear plastic tubing (the smallest quantity they sell), glued it on the aluminum tubing (its inside diameter is, believe it or not, exactly 1/2") and cut it off flush with the end of the aluminum tubing.  I then reinstalled the shifter and adjusted the linkage rod to lower it about an inch.

I covered it with plastic tubing for two reasons - bare aluminum will leave a black mark on your shoes (the ones I wear to ride are brown) and being larger in diameter, the shifter is much more comfortable on upshifts than it was before.

For some odd reason, I don't feel like the rear brake pedal is too short but did mind the shifter length.

Ed

I went and looked at the pegs, and I see what you mean about making your foot pigeon toe. You extended the aluminum out about an inch or so, right, so that your boot would easily find the shifter.

I would have to do this, because I tend to ride with my foot pointed out a little anyway, and the Buells would make it worse. I don't see an easy fix for the brake, but you said it didn't bother you for some reason.

 

[tejaschop]

FAV......not to talk you out of the Buell peg mod. I went with the TL1000R pegs and all worked out very well.....no shifter nor brake adj. needed and although only gained about 5/8" to 3/4" it really helped to give my 6' size a comfortable leg position....much better than stock pegs. Also if you order the spacers with the TL pegs you can still use the stock pins and all fits well, and the TL pegs have rubber pads and match the stock passenger pegs...just my .02

 

[EdC]

My reason for going with the Buell pegs instead of the TL pegs is that you can gain as much extra legroom by just removing the rubber pads from the stock pegs (which I did as soon as I got my bike home) as you do with the TL pegs. Given that, why bother with the TL pegs?

Ed

 

[Frantik1]

My reason for going with the Buell pegs instead of the TL pegs is that you can gain as much extra legroom by just removing the rubber pads from the stock pegs (which I did as soon as I got my bike home) as you do with the TL pegs.  Given that, why bother with the TL pegs?

Ed

+1
Especially when the Buell pegs are only $20!