BRILLIANT SHIFT LINKAGE MOD.

OB_Dirty Pete

Registered
SPEED: Here in Canada, only about half the licenced roadracers who enter sanctioned events use the race setup. Including Superbike riders and on down.

Frankly, I thought it was an internal transmission mod.

On track days, and I do a lot of those plus race schools plus private club racing, I have yet to meet anyone who makes the mod. Nor have I met anyone on the street who's done it. I've got to think this has something to do with a lack of awareness.

All I've heard for years is riders complaining how non-sensical it is to use such a weak and imprecise muscle group for upshifting (which is much more demanding than downshifting) and how upsetting to the bike's equilibrium it is to pull up for an upshift.

I think a lot of people just aren't aware that it's such an easily available option for them.

Certainly, I wasn't.

I thought that some Members might appreciate hearing that it does not require transmission adjustments to reverse the shifting order.
 
I appreciate it Dirty Pete, I am
going to go ahead and do that right
now , thanks for the tip never done
that before.
Thanks,
Turtle
 
I appreciate it Dirty Pete, I am
going to go ahead and do that right
now , thanks for the tip never done
that before.
Thanks,
Turtle
 
Jeeze you have to bash that sucker sometimes, don't you, Todd?

Still, I am not complaining.

It's character.

And besides, who has to shift to beat other bikes?
 
No way. It's no different than putting on handlebar risers or a different tire.

They're only interested in mods that affect reliability, like porting or maybe gearing changes.

If you're tight with your dealer, he'll take care of you even if you're over the line. And especially if you bought the "over-the-line" bits from his parts or accessory counter.

He likes the warranty work. It's VERY profitable.
 
If anybody wants to shift up by pushing down (one up, five down) just flop the shift actuator pinch clamp on the tranny spline from above the spline to below the spline. A 180 degree switch.

You also need to grind off the forward-facing 2/3 of about half of the elevation of your main side-stand mounting bolt hex head to give the now-lower actuator rod enough clearance. Be sure to leave enough of the hex head that you can still get a socket on it.

Makes it easier to find to your first shift on a hard launch...you just put your foot in the general area and stomp it down.

Less danger of ripping toes off in hard left corners, too.

Banging the lever down to shift up always made more sense to me. A hangover from Norton/BSA/Triumph days.

Credit for this mod goes to another Member who I met and rode with this weekend. He hasn't given permission to use his name (I haven't asked him yet) so I won't. But I know he's willing to share this secret.

He's a dragger in the 9s who has lowered and lightened his Busa mercilessly. And it goes like stink on the street...WITH good handling in corners.

He also gave me the source for a 16 tooth counter sprocket that has minimal effect on the speedo. We compared speedos, him with the 16 tooth on, me with a 17 tooth. My speedo read 100 kph, his read 102 kph. I will have the part number for that sprocket within days and will pass it along to you.



[This message has been edited by Dirty Pete (edited 13 September 1999).]
 
Ah been there done it already :)

Its the roadrace shift pattern. Most roadracers use this because they dont want to have there foot under the shift lever when they are all leaned over and all downshifting is done while the bike is upright before they enter the turn. Less chance of catch your foot on the ground.

I did it with out grinding anything. Just flip the lingage and your set. I did that before I left the dealership with my hayabusa. (5 min mod)
 
The speedo"s will read the same no matter what gearing you run. The input is from the shaft, so even though youre going a little slower, the shaft speed will be the same. You will have to calculate gearing change in percent and apply that multipiler to the speed to get comparasions. Just my .02
 
Earl, far be it from me to argue with an engineer, but I have had a 16 tooth in my bike that made my speedo run way high. With a smaller sprocket, doesn't the countershaft have to turn faster to spin the drive sprocket at the same speed the stock countershaft sprocket did? Isn't that the whole point of going to a smaller countersprocket?

Seems to me a 16 tooth sprocket has to turn 5.88% further to move the same length of chain as a 17 tooth sprocket so you should have, in addition to the factory built-in speedo error, a speedo differential of about 6%.

Or am I just spinning wheels here?

P.S. Check the thread in the "modifications' forum entitled "Speedo fixes."


[This message has been edited by Dirty Pete (edited 13 September 1999).]
 
Actually what I meant was if he switches it over once - then switches it again (back to the way it was) it would be like mine. I'm completely stock and taking care to stay that way until my 2000 Busa arrives. My biggest problem is keeping the miles off whcih could cause depreciation. I can't stop riding the beast and you guys aren't helping! :)
 
Todd, Wayne has taken deposit #2 for a "Red 2000", hope they make one......... will know for sure next Monday at the dealer show.
 
In this thread (post #1) I said that you have to grind the sidestand bolt to do this mod, and that may have deterred some people from trying it.

Instead of grinding the bolt, just replace it with a dome-head Allen bolt...then you've got clearance.

Try it. It only takes 5 minutes and it's reverseable.

No more missed shifts or false neutrals.

Easier first-to-second shifts in drag starts.
 
Back
Top