Get the Mightyvac, a spool of teflon tape, an 8mm open end, DOT4 brake fluid (DOT 5 has silicates and/or stuff in it made so it does not ruin paint, but won't brake worth crap, just stick with DOT 3/4... DOT 5.2...or point something is like 4, though).
OK, remove the valve fittings one at a time (one per caliper piston set, 4 total... two per bike side). Wrap the teflon tape on the valve threads (counter-clockwise if the threads are facing away from you, valve facing towards you, clockwise if vice versa). Replace each valve and move on to the others. The teflon tape makes it so no air gets sucked through the threads, which will make determining whether the lines are clear impossible.
Go ahead and open the master cylinder reservoir. Get the mightyvac, attach a hose to the vacuum, the collector can to that hose, the second hose to the can and a needle nozzle to the end of that hose. Suck the reservoir clean (don't worry, as long as the brake is not pumped, you will not get air into the master cylnder itself). Add fresh brake fluid and suck it clean again. Add fresh brake fluid again and keep it topped.
Now, working on the left side of the bike, look at the valve on the piston set closest to the center of the bike (i.e. the point furthest from the master cylinder. Remove the nozzle from the vac hose and attach the hose to the valve. Might be a good idea to fit the wrench over the valve nut first if it is not an open-end. Just make sure you have enough travel space to open and close it.
Pump the vac a few times, 10-15 psi works well, and open the valve. It will suck. Watch the line to see how much dirt and air goes through and keep an eye on the master cylinder, do not let it go dry... that would suck.
When it comes clean, close the valve and replace the hose onto the valve next closest to the master cylinder, in this case the outside, left side (err, if I remember correctly, it's all logical once you look). Do the same as before and then move onto the inner right side, then outer right side.
To verify all the work and make sure no air is in the lines, remove the hose on the vac, remove the collector can, open it and place one end in the can and one end on the furthest valve (again, the left, inner, just as if starting over). Pump the brake lever a few times and open the valve. The fluid will move more slowly and you get the agitation from the pumping which will loosen any bubbles that may be stuck. Repeat for the other three, again same order as before.
When it looks good, top off the reservoir to the line inside (not too much, otherwise it will start spewing all over your windscreen, triple clamp and inners when you are riding). Replace the cover and pump the brakes several times. It might feel a little soft for a short while, but then get hard after a few miles. Just make sure the bike stops fairly good before testing, if it is too spongy, something is wrong (dirty discs, fluid on the pads, warped discs, bad piston seals, etc.).
Don't worry about using as little fluid as possible, either. Just get a pint or a quart, use as much as you need and trash the rest. After opening the bottle and being exposed to air, it starts absorbing moisture. However many months down the road when you bleed the lines again, you are best using a brand new bottle than one just as old as the fluid you last changed.
