I have an air to air intercooled turbo Busa that runs about half way on the temp gauge when riding it even in the high 90 degree temps last weekend. But, I noticed anytime I pull over and shut the motor off and then back on in a short amount of time the temp gauge goes into the red and the fan kicks on. As long as I keep it running, like at a red light it doesn't get too hot. I plan to add a second fan and engine ice soon but I am not sure that is going to fix the problem. I checked the antifreeze level and the overflow bottle level. I have had this bike for a few years but this is the first time I have ridden it since having the turbo. Anybody got any ideas?
Bike temp gauge goes into red when I stop???
- Thread starter Badride
- Start date
BigRod1300
Registered
The air to air intercooler is blocking most of the rad or atleast restricting the amount of air going thru the rad. A second fan will help cause when you stop...there is NO air getting to go thru the rad. When the bike is OFF...the one fan you have is NOT running either..and temps continue to go up.
BigRod1300
Registered
I have a heat exchanger for my air/lig intercooler thats in front of my rad. My rad temps go up to mid point kicking on DUAL MUZZY alum blade fans.....the temp never goes up beyond that. Im also running a GenII rad and EngineIce for coolant.
You might want to add the second fan. Put Muzzy alum blades in both fans and maybe even wire both or atleast one fan to run on a HOT switch so you can run it with the bike off.
You might want to add the second fan. Put Muzzy alum blades in both fans and maybe even wire both or atleast one fan to run on a HOT switch so you can run it with the bike off.
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What is the differance in the Gen I and Gen II radiators?
when you shut it off the water is no longer circlating and the heat that is still in the metal of the block and cylinder walls is dicipating to to he outside air(very little) and to the water sitting. The circulation of the water is important. Thats one of the reasons you see electric water pumps on race cars, its not just to save a few horses.
BigRod1300
Registered
As for its design...the GenII is thinner and I was told better quality vs the GenI. THough the GenI fans are thicker..the GenII fans thinner..all n all helps with clearance of turbo header and fans vs the front fender. I have that heat exchanger in front of it so the space helped.
As for hose routing: The GenII will need the fan temp sensor moved to the right side line ( no plug in the core on left side like the GenI for the sensor). You will also need GenII main hose kit for the left side. The GenII has a shorter neck for the hose and the normal hose is to short. On the top right..the nips are diff for the hose going to the top of the termostat nip. Same rerouted it....I picked up a SAMCO GenII silicone hose kit...worked great for everything.
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Blake051300
Registered
It's likely a combination of the obstructed radiator along with the fact that most likely you eliminated the oil cooler with the turbo install
2wicked
Registered
Removing the oil cooler will have very little effect on the water temps of the engine, especially around town.
The high temp is the engine heat soaking the water due to no water circulation, if you start the bike back up and give it a couple of revs you will see the temp come back down, without the water circulating you are only cooling the water in the rad with the fans running, and your water temp sensor is in the head, which will be the hottest point of the cooling system,
Richard
I rode it to work yesterday and decided to check it again. The temp gauge was just a little below the half way mark and I was running around 70 the last 5 miles home. I turned in the driveway pulled up to the garage and when I shut it off the temp hand was still in the same place. I turned the key switch off. I turned it right back on. The temp hand came back to just under half way. It stayed there for 4 seconds. One second later it moved up to the red and the fan came on. So it only took 1 second to jump up there. I guess that is what puzzles me is why does it jump so fast.
My normally asperated Busa with unobstructed radiator and oil cooler does the same thing. I don't know the reason for sure, but I think its caused by lower voltage of just having the battery current messing up the signal the sensor is sending. I haven't tested this theory, but you have me thinking about it again. Maybe next time I have the plastics off I'll get the multimeter out and see what the signal is running and then not running.
Well, the temps here in Tennessee were a little hot yesterday and it ended up everytime I turned the motor off it would puke a little water out. The temp gauge showed it was only running a little less than half way when moving. Within seconds of stopping you could hear the water boiling then it would start puking. I am considering buying the electric water pump. But, I have an extra fan with the Muzzy fan blade on it that I plan to install this week along with a manual switch and I will change to some brand of engine ice if/when I put the electric pump on.
Check the radiator cap. If the system isn't holding pressure as it cools it will boil once the pump stops.
Thanks, I think I will just go ahead and get a new one just in case.
I talked to Richard (RCC) and he said to try that and also gut the thermostat. I think I will get some Evans NPG-R and try that too. And just to make myself feel better, I have an extra fan with the Muzzy blade I will add to it with a manual switch.
Ok, I ended up buying the Evans NPG-R. I drained the coolant, filled with water, got it up to operating temp, dumped the water and reapeated just to be sure. I let it set with the hoses off and the motor hot trying to get all the water I could to evaporate. I filled it with the Evans NPG-R. I also installed a manual fan switch. I also installed a new radiator cap. Now when I stop I can check the temp gauge and it ALMOST goes into the red but it never pukes any more. Now my problem is that it is vapor locking! I know for sure because I can pour water on the pump to cool it down and then the fuel pressure gauge will go up. I ordered some insulating tape and sleeves to put on the lines. I will put some insulation on the pump and wrap it with the tape. Hopefully this will solve the vapor lock problem.
