Base fuel pressure slowly drops while riding

New power numbers are 334/196 @ 15 lbs. Here's the only pic of the new stator I took out of the bike. And the video is from last year. It was only making 235hp at the time but it looks the same, only difference is now it has an ultra plenum set up on it. (And the boost gauge is now tied into 2 signal ports so it's not bouncing all around under vacuum anymore)


IMG_7356.JPG
 
GXR1147 said:
New power numbers are 334/196 @ 15 lbs. Here's the only pic of the new stator I took out of the bike. And the video is from last year. It was only making 235hp at the time but it looks the same, only difference is now it has an ultra plenum set up on it. (And the boost gauge is now tied into 2 signal ports so it's not bouncing all around under vacuum anymore)


View attachment 1580961
Click to expand...
isn't that ultra plenum incredible?
 
But the fuel pressure shouldn't move around that much due to a voltage change while not in boost. The pump should keep up with the FPR at just about any voltage while the injectors are not using up the fuel.
 
RansomT said:
But the fuel pressure shouldn't move around that much due to a voltage change while not in boost. The pump should keep up with the FPR at just about any voltage while the injectors are not using up the fuel.
Click to expand...
You're right, it should. But it didn't. I'm guessing it was an amperage issue. Unfortunately I have no way of testing the amp output of the stator. There were times when I would rev and see static pressure drop. But the point when the battery power was being consumed while the bike was running would show it not charging at all. As battery power drops, so does power to the pump. I'm taking it for a proper test drive today. I'll know for sure later.
 
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It did ok on the test drive. Pressure did move a little though. Started out at 32psi cold. Saw a low of about 28-29 (hard to see while riding.) so I'm guessing there's still something going on. also got a -C13 code for IAP sensor. I only get it when I get into my higher boost levels. Not sure what's causing that. Frank replaced my little vent thing before the sensor because it got broke during winter work. Maybe the new one isn't venting enough?
 
GXR1147 said:
Shorts on what? I've checked the fan, chassis/engine grounds ect.
Click to expand...

Shorts anywhere in the system. The manual refers to it as "battery current leakage inspection". Set the ammeter to 20A or the highest scale. With the bike completely off put the ammeter between the negative cable and negative battery terminal. Change the scale to (examples which may not match yours) .2A, .02A, etc. until it provides a valid reading. It should be below 3.0 mA (.003 A) per the manual. If the current is significantly higher than this pull fuses until the current drops. That fuse IDs the circuit with a short.

I was thinking that a cable could potentially have gotten nicked during the cable re-routing, introducing a short.
 
Hayabusa Wannabe said:
Shorts anywhere in the system. The manual refers to it as "battery current leakage inspection". Set the ammeter to 20A or the highest scale. With the bike completely off put the ammeter between the negative cable and negative battery terminal. Change the scale to (examples which may not match yours) .2A, .02A, etc. until it provides a valid reading. It should be below 3.0 mA (.003 A) per the manual. If the current is significantly higher than this pull fuses until the current drops. That fuse IDs the circuit with a short.

I was thinking that a cable could potentially have gotten nicked during the cable re-routing, introducing a short.
Click to expand...
Very possible. I'll check it tomorrow when I get back to my garage. Ty
 
GXR1147 said:
. . . also got a -C13 code for IAP sensor. I only get it when I get into my higher boost levels. Not sure what's causing that. Frank replaced my little vent thing before the sensor because it got broke during winter work. Maybe the new one isn't venting enough?
Click to expand...

Put another "T" in with another check valve, right next to the one I put in. See if that fixes it.
 
POWERHOUSE said:
Put another "T" in with another check valve, right next to the one I put in. See if that fixes it.
Click to expand...
Where do I get them? Got any links for amazon or anything? Only place I've seen them was in my stage 1 kit and you had them. What would I look up to find them? Is this something you've seen before?
 
202mphbusa said:
I had three at one point,,, then I reflashed my ECU so it don't care
Click to expand...
Haha, damn. I was under the impression that pressure can kill those sensors. Down side is now I feel like I have to ride around with a jumper wire and a 5mm Allen key in my pocket for when the FI light comes back on.
 
one way valve vents the pressure, but the map needs accurate vaccum
Or send me the ECU and I can reflash it extending the map so no more error
 
Hayabusa Wannabe said:
Shorts anywhere in the system. The manual refers to it as "battery current leakage inspection". Set the ammeter to 20A or the highest scale. With the bike completely off put the ammeter between the negative cable and negative battery terminal. Change the scale to (examples which may not match yours) .2A, .02A, etc. until it provides a valid reading. It should be below 3.0 mA (.003 A) per the manual. If the current is significantly higher than this pull fuses until the current drops. That fuse IDs the circuit with a short.

I was thinking that a cable could potentially have gotten nicked during the cable re-routing, introducing a short.
Click to expand...
.001
 
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