08 side panels vs 99-07 panels

boosted

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First of all, I got pretty good at removing panels dealing with oil changes and turbo ****. But still as you all know you have to be careful not to scratch anything. Has anyone removed the 08 yet, and is it easier, faster,smoother etc?

silverfreak

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I will have mine off in about 40 more miles.as soon as i hit the 100mile mark.ill post up then.and hopefully have some other pics of my new baby.

Turbo810

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No they are not easier. I think they are nore difficult.

Sloto200

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I just went and looked at one at the dealer again today and talked to a service guy about pulling a side panel off the new busa. He showed me where all the fasteners were. The new one we all know is missing a about 5 screws vs the "old busa". Those irritating plastic pop pins are still on the inside of the side panels connecting it to the panel above the front fender. He pulled up the "exploded view" of the side panel on the computer and it looks like where we had the 3 screws that went into the nose piece... the large side panel just slides up under it creating a seam with no screws to hold it together. It sounds like it should be easier but from the sound of a few owners, its a bit of a PITA... I hope someone with an 08 will post up pics or something and give us the low down...

euroR

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Its not easy, you have to take it easy. I had a mechanic do it with me and man its a BI$%#! But placing it back is easy. I just told him he will be the one removing my plastics from now on.

The Big Red One

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Its not easy, you have to take it easy. I had a mechanic do it with me and man its a BI$%#! But placing it back is easy. I just told him he will be the one removing my plastics from now on.
I don't exactly "enjoy" changing oil on my first gen...the 08 sounds even worse. Man I wish suzi would've addressed this problem
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silverfreak

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well.it was exactly as i suspected.major PITA.the whole right side is one piece.front to back.there are like 7 pushpins and 4 bolts to take loose.the tw0 back pins are the hard ones to get off.and then there are i think 4 dowel mounts.takes bout 30 minutes just to get the cover off.afterward its same old stuff.putting the fairing back on is lot easier than getting it off the bike.only advice i have is take your time and be careful.could be very easy to do some unwanted damage.little bit of good news.no pair valve or pump wont have to have the block off plates when putting on new header.
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roadthing

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Just remove the lower plastic rivets, and the inner fairing rivets as well. You will have JUST enough room to swing your wrench to remove/install the filter. You'll need to fabricate a "funnel" to divert the waste oil away from the headers.

I have the nasty habit of safety wiring my filters on. That presented another problem.

Kento-Moto

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3 words : BLUE PAINTERS TAPE
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saves a heckalotta paint

tinmann840

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That has always been my number one question about the new Busa . You say the right side is one piece front to back ? I'm not thrilled that there are more pins than bolts either .

Bo_

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I changed my oil a week ago, I posted this hint.

Remove the 2 plastic fasteners at the bottom rear faring, just in front of the rear tire.
Remove the RH side faring bolts.
Remove the 3 fasteners, 1 plastic, 2 bolts from the upper faring, right under the throttle grip.
Remove the 2 plastic slide fasteners from the bottom of the front faring, below the oil cooler. HINT, Note the way the faring fits together, it only goes back one way, like a puzzle, also the little nodules have to be pushed up to release the faring to let it expand.
Remove the plastic slide fastener at the upper RH corner of the radiator.    
Tape the end of a wide flat blade screwdriver.
Pop the faring nodule out of the rubber grommet just above oil fill cap using the taped screwdriver.
Raise and prop the tank.  
Pop the upper faring nodule out of the rubber grommet located under the RH side of the tank using the taped screwdriver

OK all of that was probably an insult to you mechanics, but here is the real hint.

You can STOP right there, the lower faring can now be pulled out far enough at the bottom to remove/replace the filter. It's still tight but not too bad, and much better than continuing to remove the RH faring completely.

Then put it all back together.

BTW, I've already designed a remote filter, I'm going to the machine shop today to fab it up.
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