Tapping into the intake port of the head

zerotact

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I haven't really seen anyone machining the intake runners on the head to thread foggers into each port. Is there any reason, aside from the skill and labor involved? I am thinking about a wet system into each port.
 
I origianlly put my wet kit nozzles in the velocity stacks cause I didn't want to drill/tap m head
then drilled and tapped them
much harder to change the jets with the foggers in the head
both work fine
in the head, the "hit" is BARELY perctabley harder
 
I just like the well thought out look, fit and finish of machined parts. It gives me an excuse to play on the mill.
 
If your gonna have the head off and wanna play, weld some bungs on the outside to give yourself more threaded area.
The Busa head is kinda thin in that area.
 
The question at hand is 2 parts..
Why not?
and what do I gain over a hacked airbox?
Normally spraying right into the valves is more efficient
 
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3 places to tap for a wet shot

In the Airbox
In the Throttle bodies
In the cylinders head

If you ever decide to remove the system which is the easiest and the cheapest to replace or repair? Where is it easiest to change the jets?

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annular discharge rings under the throttle bodies gets my vote for a wet shot.
 
annular discharge rings under the throttle bodies gets my vote for a wet shot.

Annular discharge rings will not fit any bike and they also do not spray evenly enough for multi port throttle bodies. They work well on cars with a single throttle body
 
Annular discharge rings will not fit any bike and they also do not spray evenly enough for multi port throttle bodies. They work well on cars with a single throttle body

nevermind then, lol, i stand corrected.
 
I haven't really seen anyone machining the intake runners on the head to thread foggers into each port. Is there any reason, aside from the skill and labor involved? I am thinking about a wet system into each port.

With all of the advancements on dry nitrous tuning (particularly on the Gen II) why would you consider going with a wet system. They both can make power, but wet systems are inherently more dangerous and costly. Air box explosions are much more likely on wet systems. Search for "Brock explosion" on UTube and you will see what I mean. Also, extra fuel lines and fittings on wet systems are more likely to be a fire hazard. Wet was definitely the way to go before ECU tuning was available, but Petrik and others have changed that.
Just a thought...
 
Brock's accident was due to him fogging the airbox with a wet system and hitting the rev limiter of off the line (could have been a 2 step. The result was a pretty big boom....He did it twice.
 
Boom number 1
- Wet Nitrous Backfire- Brocks Performance GSX-R750[/url]

Boom number 2
- Brock's nitrous explosion on GSX-R750 with fuel injectors[/url]
 
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I have my own reasons for wanting a wet system... And not all of us have Gen2 bikes

but the map swiching for fuel control for a dry shot will work with a gen 1 as well
I have even been considering it on my turbo "just to cool the intake charge" LOL

I agree with draco about rethinking a dry shot
replace the fuel pump now with something more capable
throw in some s2000 injectors
use a nitrous pressure regulator and get the bike tuned by a COMPETENT tuner
 
for the record I have only used a wet kit
If I was to go back to a motor/spray bike.

It would be a 1441 with .385/.385 cams with a stetson head I have sitting around
the head is tapped for the foggers,
a holley fuel pump(much more reliable),nitrous pressure regulator, and the Edelbrock progressive controller(same one schnitz used to sell)
use the Map switching to control the timing
Tune the fuel pressure and jet size to whatever is needed to give correct A/F with 24 nitrous jets with 650LBS nitrous pressure
Activate in second at dragstrip and prolly fourth in LSR

And smile and go WEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE
 
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