Nitrous Kit

1slowbusa

Registered
What is involved in putting a full nitrous kit on a 2003 Hayabusa? Parts, Brand, Shot size, wet, dry? The bike has 14000 miles on it is there anything recommended to do to the engine? Also brand on a new 50+sprocket and chain?

thanks
 
What is involved in putting a full nitrous kit on a 2003 Hayabusa? Parts, Brand, Shot size, wet, dry? The bike has 14000 miles on it is there anything recommended to do to the engine? Also brand on a new 50+sprocket and chain?

thanks

Hey Bro, Not too sound like an arse, but that is almost an impossible question to answer. Theres ALOT of info great info and people on this site that will do there best to answer just about any questions you might have on busa's, but you may need to be alittle more direct on what your wanting/needing to know :beerchug: I would suggest doing a search on "nitrous" and start your research on the threads that it populates, get a general idea of want your wanting(ie, wet or dry), then start asking the specifics. JMHO :beerchug:
 
Sorry man,

I guess what i would really like to know is what nitrous kit are the busa running? I have done a wet nitrous kit on a ls1 and i know what that consist of. Nitrous kit window switch and tuned. Is a busa about the same thing?
 
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If you haven't played with nitrous on a bike yet I would start off with a small dry kit. It really all depends on how fast you want to go and how much money you want to spend.
 
Roll your own. If you can pick up Smithabusa's ECU flashing equipment and nitrous harnesses you can put the N2O kit together for ~200 if you buy all NEW equipment. I think if you include the spraybar I bought, i have a whopping $275 in my nitrous. I'll post up some pics tonight and components I used.
 
Roll your own. If you can pick up Smithabusa's ECU flashing equipment and nitrous harnesses you can put the N2O kit together for ~200 if you buy all NEW equipment. I think if you include the spraybar I bought, i have a whopping $275 in my nitrous. I'll post up some pics tonight and components I used.

This is defiantly one of the "best" ways to do it on the gen1's :thumbsup:
 
Paintball gage stuck in the frame (sorry for the crappy phone pics)
IMG00048-20090309-1709.jpg


Solenoids under the seat
IMG00052-20090310-1725.jpg


Still waiting on my bar, but I should have it DONE by friday. All the brass fittings were purchased at Lowes, and the AN fittings and braided lines at a local speed shop. Sometimes if you keep your eyes peeled on places like here, psychobike.com, craigslist, and ebay you can get STEALS on people selling kits used with good solenoids and line and you can resale the rest of the kit you dont use.
 
1Slowbusa--where are you thinking for a bottle mount? If you dont mind me asking? It looks like your avatar shows a stretched arm, if you want I'll send you pictures of my bottle mount on the arm between the tire and arm. It's pretty slick and if you do a few things right, pretty stealthy, though not as hidden as Djsin's.:beerchug:
 
Paintball gage stuck in the frame (sorry for the crappy phone pics)
IMG00048-20090309-1709.jpg


Solenoids under the seat
IMG00052-20090310-1725.jpg

Sometimes if you keep your eyes peeled on places like here, psychobike.com, craigslist, and ebay you can get STEALS on people selling kits used with good solenoids and line and you can resale the rest of the kit you dont use.

I would warn against buying used valves. Nitrous solenoids in particular wear out every 2 years or so , and even 2# bottles are a crap shoot. Bottle valves need to be replaced every 2-3 years, and after 5? years they need to be re-hydrod to get them filled at many shops.
 
We've got a number of bikes that I run with running solenoids that are 5+years old and maybe MAYBE leak 10psi over a few hours. None of our bottles leak either, and hell, i think we've got a dozen, but I do agree, used parts can be a crapshoot. If you've got a new bottle, and you're not riding around EVERYWHERE with it open, a slightly leaky solenoid isnt too big of a deal. Then again, I wouldnt put a used solenoid on anything but my purge side, unless I rebuilt it, in which case, used is pretty irrelevant. As with anything, take advise with a grain of salt, it's only my $0.02 and buyer beware.
 
I pulse the nitrous and fuel valves with a progressive, and the nitrous valves occasionally need to be rebuilt. As you indicate, they sell a rebuild kit for not a lot of money, but the point is you can waste a lot of time and even potentially damage stuff with sticking nitrous valves.

Regarding bottle valves, I think I remember that there was a recent 2007 recall on NOS valves from serial # on the valve of higher than ????. Keep your eyes out
 
1Slowbusa--where are you thinking for a bottle mount? If you dont mind me asking? It looks like your avatar shows a stretched arm, if you want I'll send you pictures of my bottle mount on the arm between the tire and arm. It's pretty slick and if you do a few things right, pretty stealthy, though not as hidden as Djsin's.:beerchug:

Yes that is exactly were i was going to mount my bottle. I would really like to see your pictures. Is the bottle hard to keep clean there? Mine has a 6 inch swingarm ext, does yours have one and how long. What size bottle?

Thanks
 
Hey Wild07, Are you using the paint ball gauge for N2O bottle psi? ??? Also im assuming the craftsman wrench is for scale, right?
 
I pulse the nitrous and fuel valves with a progressive, and the nitrous valves occasionally need to be rebuilt. As you indicate, they sell a rebuild kit for not a lot of money, but the point is you can waste a lot of time and even potentially damage stuff with sticking nitrous valves.

Regarding bottle valves, I think I remember that there was a recent 2007 recall on NOS valves from serial # on the valve of higher than ????. Keep your eyes out

Yes you are a 100% correct on the "NOS" bottle valve recall, but i believe it was on the 2 & 2.5lbs bottles.
 
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PB160126.jpg


That's my bottle mount. I would think if you're not riding in too much weather, it shouldnt be too hard to keep clean, but this is my first season with that arm and mount... I know my buddy I bought the arm from didnt have a whole lot of a problem, but it does get rubber on it at the track. I suppose if you waxed it, or hit it with some pam or something it would be pretty easy to keep clean. My arm is a 4-6 over, with a the bottle mount welded, though they can be drilled, tapped and bolted on also.

Draco, I'll definetly keep my eyes peeled on all our bottle valves.

Tox, You got it on the wrench my man! And yes, it's a paintball gage. I'll try to get some better pictures of everything tonight, since my bar is in now. The gage is a 400-1200 psi. Think it cost me all of $11 at a local paintball shop.
 
So far... we've got em on two bikes and it's workin suck through the chassis like that. Nice thing is, if you run your lines right, all you have to do is SHOVE it in from the back side and it'll stick. I put on 150ish miles last weekend and even with IL's wonderful roads it didnt bounce out of place once!
 
PB160126.jpg


That's my bottle mount. I would think if you're not riding in too much weather, it shouldnt be too hard to keep clean, but this is my first season with that arm and mount... I know my buddy I bought the arm from didnt have a whole lot of a problem, but it does get rubber on it at the track. I suppose if you waxed it, or hit it with some pam or something it would be pretty easy to keep clean. My arm is a 4-6 over, with a the bottle mount welded, though they can be drilled, tapped and bolted on also.

Draco, I'll definetly keep my eyes peeled on all our bottle valves.

Tox, You got it on the wrench my man! And yes, it's a paintball gage. I'll try to get some better pictures of everything tonight, since my bar is in now. The gage is a 400-1200 psi. Think it cost me all of $11 at a local paintball shop.

That setup is sweet!!:thumbsup: Were did you get the bottle Clamp?
 
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