Shop Manual Misprint '25 Fork Preload Range?

[g3green]

Hey all,
New busa owner setting up SAG.
Currently my front fork rider sag is 51mm @ 4.3mm preload (190lb rider+gear) so turned to my manual and it seems to say the adj range is 4mm to 10mm but below that are three pictures ranging from 4mm to 14mm?
Am I missing something?
My front end is soft and diving when under heavier braking. Zip tie is about 30mm from bottom casting. Top out is 127mm - 120mm stroke seems to leave me another 20mm before bottoming out unless my math is off.
Rear rider sag is 28mm
Looks to me that the beast is sprung too light for me. I don't have a spanner as yet to adj the rear preload.

[g3green]

Pushed the Zip Tie up to the bottom of the seal and measured from the top of the seal (bottom of fork outer tube) and got 26mm with me on the bike. Repeated after 4 full turns in to stiffen preload and got 26mm again?

I previously miss-measured from below the adj nut instead of top of the nut so I had some room
I am now maxed out stiffness measuring 4mm as shown in diagram. I would have thought 4 turns would have made some difference

[sixpack577]

At 190lbs, plus gear, if you have full gear, you are talking ballpark 20 lbs, and much over 200 lbs total, the fork springs are done.
The sag should be 30-35mm for ideal handling, which will be on the firm side.

[sixpack577]

And are you lifting the front and rear off of the ground completely, with the front on a forklift stand(supported under lower triple-clamp), and the rear off of the swingarm stand, either with a metal rod through the frame supported by jackstands, manually lifted up by someone while you measure, or on a Bursig or Skylift stand?
Then back on the ground with you or someone your weight sitting on it?

[g3green]

Yes, I have the "top out" numbers (Wheels off the ground leveraged on side stand), static sag and rider sag

I am 190 lbs including gear.
Total front with top out = 127mm less the 120mm travel gives me 7mm above the fork axle casting as bottom out. I put a mark there. The Zip Tie is about 10mm above bottom out on the last ride which was pretty easy with no heavy braking.

Can anyone confirm my top out and bike sag numbers for a stock '25?
Would be helpful to get someone elses numbers who is 190-200 lbs.

Measuring from the axle casting / leg joint, to the top of the fork seal where it meets the fork tube.
Top Out: 127mm
Bike Sag: 90mm
Rider Sag: 76mm

Current settings are Front:
Rider Sag: 51mm
PreLoad: 10 turns out
Rebound: 8 clicks out
Comp: 1 turn out

Rear:
Bike Sag: 9mm
Rider Sag: 28mm
I haven't touched the rebound yet and I can't move the preload collar. What a stupid preload setup for a $27K bike, not even a simple slip ring on top of the coil to make adj easier instead of having to carve all the powder coating off the spring, or a wider collar.

[Cruising180]

Yes, I have the "top out" numbers (Wheels off the ground leveraged on side stand), static sag and rider sag

I am 190 lbs including gear.
Total front with top out = 127mm less the 120mm travel gives me 7mm above the fork axle casting as bottom out. I put a mark there. The Zip Tie is about 10mm above bottom out on the last ride which was pretty easy with no heavy braking.

Can anyone confirm my top out and bike sag numbers for a stock '25?
Would be helpful to get someone elses numbers who is 190-200 lbs.

Measuring from the axle casting / leg joint, to the top of the fork seal where it meets the fork tube.
Top Out: 127mm
Bike Sag: 90mm
Rider Sag: 76mm

Current settings are Front:
Rider Sag: 51mm
PreLoad: 10 turns out
Rebound: 8 clicks out
Comp: 1 turn out

Rear:
Bike Sag: 9mm
Rider Sag: 28mm
I haven't touched the rebound yet and I can't move the preload collar. What a stupid preload setup for a $27K bike, not even a simple slip ring on top of the coil to make adj easier instead of having to carve all the powder coating off the spring, or a wider collar.

View attachment 1697754

Buy the brass shock collar punch and spanner from Motion Pro. You'll thank me.

Shock Spanner Punch - Motion Pro

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Shock Collar Spanner Wrench 68/87mm - Motion Pro

Motion Pro - High quality cables, tools and controls for motorcycles, ATVs, snowmobiles and personal watercraft.

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[g3green]

Buy the brass shock collar punch and spanner from Motion Pro. You'll thank me.

My concern is buggering up those fine threads on the shock. Still figuring out how to get this beast off the floor without paddock stands, so the suspension is free to top out. This is a lot more work to get at things than my '83 Katana... LOL

[g3green]

Road the beast up to the dealership ( Mountainview Motorsports in Chilliwack BC )today to pick up the solo seat cowl and I asked them if they could take a couple turns out of the rear shock, they said yes.

An hr and a half later a service guy comes out and says they are having issues getting the collar to turn but they are working on it. 2hrs later I left and there is still no static sag on the back end and my adjusting collar is smashed to $**t on every crown. Clearly they were not worried about buggering up the threads by using a punch and hammer.

Now they have turned the adjuster into a lock ring with all the pounded edges now digging into the spring

[Hayabusa Wannabe]

Road the beast up to the dealership ( Mountainview Motorsports in Chilliwack BC )today to pick up the solo seat cowl and I asked them if they could take a couple turns out of the rear shock, they said yes.

An hr and a half later a service guy comes out and says they are having issues getting the collar to turn but they are working on it. 2hrs later I left and there is still no static sag on the back end and my adjusting collar is smashed to $**t on every crown. Clearly they were not worried about buggering up the threads by using a punch and hammer.

Now they have turned the adjuster into a lock ring with all the pounded edges now digging into the spring

I am so sorry that the dealer destroyed that on a brand new bike.

I have the brass punch and my bike has low miles. It is very difficult to turn. I got a bit of adjustment, not all that I need, before the punch became rounded. But the steel parts are unharmed by brass.

I am gloming onto @Kiwi Rider's advice at this point:

Post in thread 'Rear shock adjustment'

Oct 30, 2023

Just remove the shock and put it into a vice connected to a sturdy bench, then spray the threads with penetrating fluid, then loosen the lock ring and wind up the preload ring with a proper fitting C spanner.
If you’re going to leave the stock spring on, wind up the ring 3 full turns to start with and then refit the shock to the bike.
Then check to be sure you still have some static sag… then secure the lock ring on the shock.
Ideally you will fit a heavier spring to suit your weight.

• Kiwi Rider

• 

[Cruising180]

I am so sorry that the dealer destroyed that on a brand new bike.

I have the brass punch and my bike has low miles. It is very difficult to turn. I got a bit of adjustment, not all that I need, before the punch became rounded. But the steel parts are unharmed by brass.

I am gloming onto @Kiwi Rider's advice at this point:

Post in thread 'Rear shock adjustment'

Oct 30, 2023

Just remove the shock and put it into a vice connected to a sturdy bench, then spray the threads with penetrating fluid, then loosen the lock ring and wind up the preload ring with a proper fitting C spanner.
If you’re going to leave the stock spring on, wind up the ring 3 full turns to start with and then refit the shock to the bike.
Then check to be sure you still have some static sag… then secure the lock ring on the shock.
Ideally you will fit a heavier spring to suit your weight.

• Kiwi Rider

• 

I'm telling you. Get those two Motion Pro tools.

[sixpack577]

I'de be getting a new rear shock from the dealer.

[Hayabusa Wannabe]

I'm telling you. Get those two Motion Pro tools.

Which tools? You mention the brass punch which is what I used. It took Mr. T level effort to get very minimal movement and the punch rounded before I could get the total adjustment I wanted.

I have several pin spanners. My recollection is that I can get them into the VFR but there was not room in the Hayabusa. If there are tips, such as unloading the bike or such, to make room for this adjustment, please inform me.

[Cruising180]

Which tools? You mention the brass punch which is what I used. It took Mr. T level effort to get very minimal movement and the punch rounded before I could get the total adjustment I wanted.

I have several pin spanners. My recollection is that I can get them into the VFR but there was not room in the Hayabusa. If there are tips, such as unloading the bike or such, to make room for this adjustment, please inform me.

The two that I linked to above. The punch is to knock the lock nut loose. Once that is loosened you spin it up that out of the way by hand. The Motion Pro spanner is the perfect size and the "tooth" grabs the notches on the compressing ring and dont slip.

[sixpack577]

Which tools? You mention the brass punch which is what I used. It took Mr. T level effort to get very minimal movement and the punch rounded before I could get the total adjustment I wanted.

I have several pin spanners. My recollection is that I can get them into the VFR but there was not room in the Hayabusa. If there are tips, such as unloading the bike or such, to make room for this adjustment, please inform me.

The pin style spanners are not correct, and are designed to fit into a hole in certain applications.
The shock collar spanners have square tips/ends on them.

[Hayabusa Wannabe]

The pin style spanners are not correct, and are designed to fit into a hole in certain applications.
The shock collar spanners have square tips/ends on them.

Thank you, I just used the term generically, so yours is a good correction. I collected several shock spanners, as you iterate, not really round pin spanners.

[sixpack577]

I always spray a small amount of pentrating oil on to the threads above the lock rings, and let it seep down.
I also use a toothbrush on all of the visible threads to clean them, as even the smallest amount of dirt makes the lock rings very difficult to turn.

[Cruising180]

I always spray a small amount of pentrating oil on to the threads above the lock rings, and let it seep down.
I also use a toothbrush on all of the visible threads to clean them, as even the smallest amount of dirt makes the lock rings very difficult to turn.

[g3green]

Hey, thaks for all the replies and comments. I just heard aback from the dealership after a week. They are going to replace the shock.

[g3green]

I'de be getting a new rear shock from the dealer.

Dealership told me that the collars are not available separately, so they will be getting me a new shock

[g3green]

The two that I linked to above. The punch is to knock the lock nut loose. Once that is loosened you spin it up that out of the way by hand. The Motion Pro spanner is the perfect size and the "tooth" grabs the notches on the compressing ring and dont slip.

I think there is a problem with the shock itself. I loosened the lock ring easy enough but the adjustment ring won't not move more than a couple mm. I guess that is why the dealershop hammered the crap out of it and didn't get it to move more than a 1/2 turn