Suspension chat. Explain shock Pre-Load

TallTom

Registered
The terms should be the same but the bike is different. @c10 or anyone. I am trying to wrap my understanding of pre-load better.

Quick summary. I bought a road sofa Goldwing. It has a hydraulic rear pre-load that adjust from 1 which is meant to generally by 160 lb rider, no luggage. Up to 25 which is 450 lbs (2 passenger) plus full load of luggage. Roughly 600 lbs. Infinitely adjustable from 1-25.

I found I like the PL to be at 11 for just me and what little extra weight past me.

Today my neighbor called me. He had a new Harley he purchased and it was being trucked in from the dealer he bought it from. He asked if if take him there. I said sure. He said we can ride back together. So he essentially became my first passenger. I forgot all about my pre-load and didn't think to adjust. I sort of forgot all about it as I was more adjusting to the idea that it was my 1st 2up ride. I weigh 235. He weighs 220. So off we went. I actually wanted to see how the big girl did.

My 1st impression was holy chyt she didn't like all this weight. She wallowed through turns and when it came time to brake it felt like you needed acres to plan ahead. Entering the highway on ramp she felt very sloshy and vague.

The destination was 20 miles away. We get there and truck was not there. He called only to find out that there was an identical mile marker and highway in Fla. It was about 45 miles away. While he was sorting that out, I'm checking tire pressures and generally thinking this bike isn't going to be near as capable as I hoped loaded up for the long hauls. He mentioned it was very squishy and all over the place back there.

Then I remembered the pre-load hit me. I said wait a second....and moved it up to 25. He said he could feel it change. We pulled out and headed to the road. I instantly felt a huge difference in the turning and maneuvering. Braking was back to awesome again. The remainder of the trip was 2000% better. My confidence in the bike came back solid.

But I've been reviewing what I thought I knew about pre-load. The braking aspect I think I grasp. A lower rear end and the brakes feel vague because the bike is still sagged lower in the rear that it doesn't sufficiently unload into the front where majority of the braking is.

And the same could be said about the steering vagueness. But I was set at 11, just under half of the pre-load. So I'm trying to process the geometry changes and ride mechanical moments I'm actually adjusting in the term pre-load.

I mean 435 lbs is about 2/3 load capacity on the suspension. I wouldn't expect such a huge lack of feel and handling. I mean the bike felt actually less than safe. I thought pre-load was meant to load the spring so that it pre-loads the spring travel to keep it from being under or over sprung and it doesn't bottom out or top out in travel.

Now I'm thinking I dont know what pre-load does. Physically I can watch the rear raise and lower from 1-25-1. So I have to imagine that is spring and piston being loaded. But I may be totally missing a lot in my understanding now. I assume the shock dampening is a constant and the pre-load is only to load or unload the spring coils. So 200 lbs deflects the spring so much and you need to add "weight," to keep the spring under correct tension for the weight on it.

What say you gurus?
 
First of all, you rode 2 up with a guy? To get a Harley? haha.

My understanding is that the weight of the bike is supported by the spring. The damper in both compression and rebound helps the spring to not act "springy" like a pogo stick. As you compress a spring it becomes harder to compress - so more preload makes the shock stiffer. Setting the preload or SAG stiffens or loosens the spring tension to get the shock in its proper stroke for the load on the bike. You can tune the handling a bit with preload too. For example, making the back harder and the front softer would help turn in as the bike would "dive" more.

That's how it was explained to me.
 
Year / model Wing ? There is a fine gentleman who owns and runs Traxxion suspension , and his youtube videos explain a great deal on the wings suspension shortcomings.
Link here to 18 to 2022 models = Gold Wing (2018-22) - Traxxion Dynamics

Tom in the settings the preload is being adjusted to a stiffer setting , but I imagine either compression or rebound damping is also altered by the setting changes .
Newer units with electronic suspension stepper motors can do both . Your manual may explain what is changed in each setting .

Example my BMW in Road / min setting is soft and compliant . Road / Auto it adjust to the road surfaces and overall weight of bike / rider / cargo . Road / Max is full stiff but the damping both ways is still not as stiff as setting Dynamic / Min . Then I have Dynamic / Auto , and Dynamic / Max . These last options are for spirited riding like a track day or canyon riding . The whole bike feels transformed to very Sport oriented .
 
Year / model Wing ? There is a fine gentleman who owns and runs Traxxion suspension , and his youtube videos explain a great deal on the wings suspension shortcomings.
Link here to 18 to 2022 models = Gold Wing (2018-22) - Traxxion Dynamics

Tom in the settings the preload is being adjusted to a stiffer setting , but I imagine either compression or rebound damping is also altered by the setting changes .
Newer units with electronic suspension stepper motors can do both . Your manual may explain what is changed in each setting .

Example my BMW in Road / min setting is soft and compliant . Road / Auto it adjust to the road surfaces and overall weight of bike / rider / cargo . Road / Max is full stiff but the damping both ways is still not as stiff as setting Dynamic / Min . Then I have Dynamic / Auto , and Dynamic / Max . These last options are for spirited riding like a track day or canyon riding . The whole bike feels transformed to very Sport oriented .
It's a 2005. It's hydraulically controlled via a piston the shock tube sits in. Here is where I start to get lost. The piston has 4 inches of travel. So in theory let's say it takes 800 lbs to collapse that tube to the end of its travel. At 200 lbs with no pre-load the rider would compress it an inch. Am I trying to preload that piston to add or take away travel?

465 lbs overwhelmed the rear suspension at approx mid range load. I don't know if it was bottoming out and I'm supposed to add pre-load to prevent spring rebound or if I'm simply trying to move the shock tube up to increase the shock piston resistance to travel up and down in the shock.
 
You cannot "add travel" by preloading a spring.
You are also trying to dial in an 18 year old Goldwing suspension...and it's only going to get so good...
I know I'm not adding travel. If total travel is 4 inches all I can do is limit it's ability to bounce in the 4 inches.

And although it's 18 years old, I believe it's still the same system used today.

And yes I'll go find Dave Moss.
 
I know I'm not adding travel. If total travel is 4 inches all I can do is limit it's ability to bounce in the 4 inches.

And although it's 18 years old, I believe it's still the same system used today.

And yes I'll go find Dave Moss.

I wasn't talking about an 18 year old design...I was talking about the suspension and it's oil is 18 years old.
Suspension wears out over time and doesn't perform as well...and Long before 18 years.
If you want it to perform well, it needs serviced.
 
I don't think it's that you don't understand preload.
I think that you are just expecting too much from worn suspension, and 500lbs of load isn't going to handle well on the stock suspension regardless.
It should if I'm rated for 800 lbs loaded up weight. And it did fine when I cranked in more pre-load. I'll think about how oil affects this. I mean worn out oil doesn't compress any differently than clean oil does.

The shock itself is gas filled.
 
The terms should be the same but the bike is different. @c10 or anyone. I am trying to wrap my understanding of pre-load better.

Quick summary. I bought a road sofa Goldwing. It has a hydraulic rear pre-load that adjust from 1 which is meant to generally by 160 lb rider, no luggage. Up to 25 which is 450 lbs (2 passenger) plus full load of luggage. Roughly 600 lbs. Infinitely adjustable from 1-25.

I found I like the PL to be at 11 for just me and what little extra weight past me.

Today my neighbor called me. He had a new Harley he purchased and it was being trucked in from the dealer he bought it from. He asked if if take him there. I said sure. He said we can ride back together. So he essentially became my first passenger. I forgot all about my pre-load and didn't think to adjust. I sort of forgot all about it as I was more adjusting to the idea that it was my 1st 2up ride. I weigh 235. He weighs 220. So off we went. I actually wanted to see how the big girl did.

My 1st impression was holy chyt she didn't like all this weight. She wallowed through turns and when it came time to brake it felt like you needed acres to plan ahead. Entering the highway on ramp she felt very sloshy and vague.

The destination was 20 miles away. We get there and truck was not there. He called only to find out that there was an identical mile marker and highway in Fla. It was about 45 miles away. While he was sorting that out, I'm checking tire pressures and generally thinking this bike isn't going to be near as capable as I hoped loaded up for the long hauls. He mentioned it was very squishy and all over the place back there.

Then I remembered the pre-load hit me. I said wait a second....and moved it up to 25. He said he could feel it change. We pulled out and headed to the road. I instantly felt a huge difference in the turning and maneuvering. Braking was back to awesome again. The remainder of the trip was 2000% better. My confidence in the bike came back solid.

But I've been reviewing what I thought I knew about pre-load. The braking aspect I think I grasp. A lower rear end and the brakes feel vague because the bike is still sagged lower in the rear that it doesn't sufficiently unload into the front where majority of the braking is.

And the same could be said about the steering vagueness. But I was set at 11, just under half of the pre-load. So I'm trying to process the geometry changes and ride mechanical moments I'm actually adjusting in the term pre-load.

I mean 435 lbs is about 2/3 load capacity on the suspension. I wouldn't expect such a huge lack of feel and handling. I mean the bike felt actually less than safe. I thought pre-load was meant to load the spring so that it pre-loads the spring travel to keep it from being under or over sprung and it doesn't bottom out or top out in travel.

Now I'm thinking I dont know what pre-load does. Physically I can watch the rear raise and lower from 1-25-1. So I have to imagine that is spring and piston being loaded. But I may be totally missing a lot in my understanding now. I assume the shock dampening is a constant and the pre-load is only to load or unload the spring coils. So 200 lbs deflects the spring so much and you need to add "weight," to keep the spring under correct tension for the weight on it.

What say you gurus?
Preload serves three purposes. Only one is usually talked about. 1-to set your sag in the stroke range for your suspension and weight. So more weight necessitates more preload with a passenger. Most motorcycles have a rising rate rear link. So the deeper into the suspension stroke the faster the rate rises. So part of the stroke can be 2.1 then 3.1. Compared to a race bike which is 1.1 in the entire stroke. Rising rate allows you to have a passenger and not have to adjust preload much every time. 2- it creates potential energy. Every other suspension setting is based on reactionary forces. It need a bumb on the road to begin its adjustments. Preload is potential energy stored. The moment the road changes preload is the first energy that is released. Higher preload=more responsive ride as long as you don't go too far and top out the suspension in its movements. 3- weight transfer, this is why your braking improved. On a 2 up all the weight was on the rear. So hit the brakes not much happened since your front tire wasn't loaded enough for the brakes to work. This is how some people wipe out in corners even though they might not be pushing it hard. Front tire isn't being loaded enough to create traction and braking capacity is down considerably.
 
Preload serves three purposes. Only one is usually talked about. 1-to set your sag in the stroke range for your suspension and weight. So more weight necessitates more preload with a passenger. Most motorcycles have a rising rate rear link. So the deeper into the suspension stroke the faster the rate rises. So part of the stroke can be 2.1 then 3.1. Compared to a race bike which is 1.1 in the entire stroke. Rising rate allows you to have a passenger and not have to adjust preload much every time. 2- it creates potential energy. Every other suspension setting is based on reactionary forces. It need a bumb on the road to begin its adjustments. Preload is potential energy stored. The moment the road changes preload is the first energy that is released. Higher preload=more responsive ride as long as you don't go too far and top out the suspension in its movements. 3- weight transfer, this is why your braking improved. On a 2 up all the weight was on the rear. So hit the brakes not much happened since your front tire wasn't loaded enough for the brakes to work. This is how some people wipe out in corners even though they might not be pushing it hard. Front tire isn't being loaded enough to create traction and braking capacity is down considerably.
Now we are getting somewhere! The light is less dim. I may have some follow up questions but I'll chew on this response a good bit. I already grasped the braking and handling part.
 
If you want a deep dive into Suspension, I would recommend reading Andrew Trevitts book "Sportbike Suspension Tuning" or Race Tech's Motorcycle Suspension Bible
. I have a PDF version of Trevitts book, but I think I would get in trouble posting it on a forum. If you have a local library, they are a remarkable resource typically, in that they will usually get a particular book for you. I have done this a few times with my local library. Here is a few excerpts of his description of Preload.

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To me a spring with a #900 rating (stock wing spring) does the same job no matter how much weight is on it. And it does. But the pre-load part I think I'm missing is the shock dampening part of the equation. If the spring is under a higher pre-load rate, that brings it rebound more in favor of the shocks need to dampen, either more or less.

I think we are trying to get the spring deflection (tension) to favor less shock tube travel under the load you are in?

If a spring is rated at #900. And I put 500 lbs in it, it's going to compress 50% thus the shock tube is already compressing 2" in it 4" travel?
 
I think @zeepopo2 pretty much nailed the preload and its purpose. Personally I think you are over thinking it a bit. Mainly use your preload to set your sag. Check the static sag to make sure you are using the right spring. If you want to add preload for a passenger that's fine but you should do it via sag measurements. Racing Motocross and a bit of road racing long time ago, sag can affect how the bike turns or it's stability at speed. I might add preload (reduce sag) to make the bike ride higher in the rear for slower, tighter sharper turns and for more open, higher speed situations the bike is more stable with the rear lower so maybe I remove some preload (increasing sag). Beyond that I generally don't touch the preload once it's set. For context sag adjustments are on the order for a few millimeters for me.
 
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