Need suggestions on Frame polishing
- Thread starter BigDiesel
- Start date
rhythm you are needed here............
i was going to go that route, then thank the lord i found the chrome frame covers.
my understanding is about two plus days of sanding.
i was going to go that route, then thank the lord i found the chrome frame covers.
my understanding is about two plus days of sanding.
It's ALOT of work to do it right. Usually most guys get about halfway through and start thinking "WTF was i thinking?!"
Then you start buffing it out and the shine starts coming through. That's when you say to yourself "Cool!! that's awesome shine is the Bee's knee's!"
Then you start buffing it out and the shine starts coming through. That's when you say to yourself "Cool!! that's awesome shine is the Bee's knee's!"
That is the truth. I did everything but the wheels, I decided to buy them.(GMbusa @ Jan. 31 2007,20:31) It's ALOT of work to do it right. Usually most guys get about halfway through and start thinking "WTF was i thinking?!"
Then you start buffing it out and the shine starts coming through. That's when you say to yourself "Cool!! that's awesome shine is the Bee's knee's!"
Riders veiw.....
Thanks, just have to buy another one and start the modding again.(heavybusa @ Jan. 31 2007,20:57) nice ride big john!!
dude here's shiney
hayabusa99b/w
Registered
you can get a bada$$ shine out of it using wetsand sandpaper and a sander!! I just got done about two weeks ago with my frame and used the following:
Sandpaper(wetsand) Blue Magic Polishing Compound
220 grit WD-40
400 grit Buffer
800 grit Electric Palm Sander
1000 grit Lots and lots of rags
1500 grit
2000 grit
I started with 220 grit sandpaper and went all the way of up the different grits of paper as shown above. I wet down the frame with WD-40 before every step and used a combinination of hand sanding and palm sanding with the electric sander. The wetsand paper and WD-40 make for a great combination and allow you to polish without as much trouble as you would normally have with a dry surface. The WD-40 allows you to polish evenly without making waves in the metal. The worst part as I am sure alot of you know is getting the rough part of the frame sanded down. The hardest part is that the metal on the middle part of the frame that is not smooth is porous meaning that when you sand it down to a smooth finish the frame has pits in it which cause you to have to sand further and longer. The worst parts on this part of the frame are around the swingarm bolt openings on either side of the frame, the transition point in the frame right above that spot, the bottom of the frame below the swingarm nuts and close to the weld that seperates the two finishes on the frame. Once you get all of the pits out of the metal you are home free at least with the hard part. Use the 220 grit only to do this or you will be sanding all weekend long. The rest of the frame after that is just lots and lots and lots of sanding, but make sure that you wipe off the frame after each step of sandpaper as the metal shavings from the course grit you just got done using will scratch the frame even though you are going to a smoother grit of sandpaper. Be sure that you coat the frame with a fresh layer of WD-40 before you go to the next grit. Complete each one of these steps until you finish the 2000 grit and you should have a really shiny part of the frame. Be sure that you use polish to shine it up though being that when you finish the last step of sandpaper the metal may not shine due to the grime and residue left by the sandpaper, metal shavings, and WD-40 that will not come out until you use a polishing compound. As for the upper part of the frame that is already smooth, the hardest part is getting the coating off of this portion of the frame. The frame may look like nothing to sand but has a coating on it from suzuki to protect the metal that is very hard to get off. I used a grinder with a real fine sanding disc to take the coating off but alot of guys will use either aircraft stripper or oven cleaner to get it off. Once you have done that you can start with 800 grit and work your way up to 2000, but keep in mind that the hardest part about the upper part of the frame is the vin tag on the left of the bike being right in the way. I destroyed mine when I used the grinder and ended up grinding mine all the way down and left the vin # showing on the bottom of the tag. It is no problem to take that tag all of the way off as the vin# is also stamped onto the upper part of the frame around the stearing stem housing. Use some polishing compound again to polish this part up and you should be home free. Just be ready to use alot of sandpaper and lots and lots and lots of rags but is definately worth it when it is all over. I will post pictures of my frame finished when I get the wheels back on and get it out of the garage due to my crapass camera not taking good pictures of it in the garage. Good luck and hope this helps!!
Sandpaper(wetsand) Blue Magic Polishing Compound
220 grit WD-40
400 grit Buffer
800 grit Electric Palm Sander
1000 grit Lots and lots of rags
1500 grit
2000 grit
I started with 220 grit sandpaper and went all the way of up the different grits of paper as shown above. I wet down the frame with WD-40 before every step and used a combinination of hand sanding and palm sanding with the electric sander. The wetsand paper and WD-40 make for a great combination and allow you to polish without as much trouble as you would normally have with a dry surface. The WD-40 allows you to polish evenly without making waves in the metal. The worst part as I am sure alot of you know is getting the rough part of the frame sanded down. The hardest part is that the metal on the middle part of the frame that is not smooth is porous meaning that when you sand it down to a smooth finish the frame has pits in it which cause you to have to sand further and longer. The worst parts on this part of the frame are around the swingarm bolt openings on either side of the frame, the transition point in the frame right above that spot, the bottom of the frame below the swingarm nuts and close to the weld that seperates the two finishes on the frame. Once you get all of the pits out of the metal you are home free at least with the hard part. Use the 220 grit only to do this or you will be sanding all weekend long. The rest of the frame after that is just lots and lots and lots of sanding, but make sure that you wipe off the frame after each step of sandpaper as the metal shavings from the course grit you just got done using will scratch the frame even though you are going to a smoother grit of sandpaper. Be sure that you coat the frame with a fresh layer of WD-40 before you go to the next grit. Complete each one of these steps until you finish the 2000 grit and you should have a really shiny part of the frame. Be sure that you use polish to shine it up though being that when you finish the last step of sandpaper the metal may not shine due to the grime and residue left by the sandpaper, metal shavings, and WD-40 that will not come out until you use a polishing compound. As for the upper part of the frame that is already smooth, the hardest part is getting the coating off of this portion of the frame. The frame may look like nothing to sand but has a coating on it from suzuki to protect the metal that is very hard to get off. I used a grinder with a real fine sanding disc to take the coating off but alot of guys will use either aircraft stripper or oven cleaner to get it off. Once you have done that you can start with 800 grit and work your way up to 2000, but keep in mind that the hardest part about the upper part of the frame is the vin tag on the left of the bike being right in the way. I destroyed mine when I used the grinder and ended up grinding mine all the way down and left the vin # showing on the bottom of the tag. It is no problem to take that tag all of the way off as the vin# is also stamped onto the upper part of the frame around the stearing stem housing. Use some polishing compound again to polish this part up and you should be home free. Just be ready to use alot of sandpaper and lots and lots and lots of rags but is definately worth it when it is all over. I will post pictures of my frame finished when I get the wheels back on and get it out of the garage due to my crapass camera not taking good pictures of it in the garage. Good luck and hope this helps!!
hayabusa99b/w
Registered
I would hook you up with it, but surprisingly the place that I bought it at was none other than wal-mart in the automotive section right above the touch up paint and air craft stripper believe it or not!! WAL-MART is the only place that I could find it, very scary that they have stuff like that but I am not complaining at $3 a pack. The 2000 grit is very important to get a mirror like shine, makes a real difference.
the wait is on
That was a cut and paste I found somewhere online over five years ago. The technique I use is way easier than that long list of do dads. I can polish a complete frame in about 6hrs with positive results. Using a wood strip wheel,emery sand paper, murphy oil soap and water, mother chrome polish.
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