Help ..which is best
- Thread starter Busa Bill
- Start date
Let me know If you want the brock and i maybe able to give you some trade in on the other system you have depending on what you want for it.I will state the free services and info that cme with the brock system is undoubtedly the best deal.send pics of your systemm and price you need for it to cloudninemtrspts@aol.com
I heard that the Arko.Sys. was suppose to be the top of the line and the other pipes out there were insired by and use there technology to get where there at now ?.Didnt all AMA bikes at one time use the Arko. systems . I did read that at the Indysportbike site . How is the Brock Streetsmart sys. in the Low and mid range. this is where i spend most of my riding in tight twisties up in the mountains and yea I love to open her up here in florida and hit every bit of 180 . 2500-3000 rang is a little jerky when riding in the conjested areas like Orlando Fl. it drives me freaking crazy I have one map made for the low to mid range that is pretty smooth in that range and is dealable with, the other 3 are all HP maps . I have alot of money wrapped up in maps Dynoed by tunners . is this a flaw of the Busa , Is there going to be a bennefit going to a much more and expensive pipe .What do you think ?..
if you do more drag racing or street racing go with the brock, if you are doing more mid rpm riding go with the akr. we have some great prices on akr. if you are interested.
brock hands down and get it from goldenchild A+++ Guy
still havent made my mind up . dose anyone know if there is a reg. street version exhaust like a 4-2-1 & 4-1 exhaust ,or is all 4-2-1 sys. etc.full race systems . if there is systems out there ,what are the models of these sys.and makers .I have a race system on now its a Hindle Carbon full race sys. but full race systems are made for racing ,used in the mid and upper RPM ranges most of my riding is low to mid's, so I would think just a 4-2-1-or 4-1 street system would do me good for the type of riding ?. dont get me wrong love power but Im not a racer love my twisties.
Hey if Im confused please let me know maybe race systems can be tunned for city and street riding , but I have had my bike tunned by 2 different tunners and spent a lot of money on these maps and grant you there awsome if your a racer ,there smooth no dead spots etc, good maps .
Hey if Im confused please let me know maybe race systems can be tunned for city and street riding , but I have had my bike tunned by 2 different tunners and spent a lot of money on these maps and grant you there awsome if your a racer ,there smooth no dead spots etc, good maps .
If you already have a full-system now, I wouldn't waste the money for another exhaust. If you want more kick in the low-mid area, you need to either change your gearing or go 1397cc for better midrange.
IMO...I would still get the BDE Gen III system but that's me.
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IMO...I would still get the BDE Gen III system but that's me.
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Ditto . You have a good exhaust . Stock engines needs the timing advanced plus some fuel added to help in the RPM range your having trouble in . + 4 really helps . Don't matter if you can see it on the dyno sheets or not . It's how it feels that counts .
Add some timing in your map or use this and remap .
No!
Take the TRE off and throw it in the trash. If the bike is mapped properly (with the PC) you DO NOT NEED A TRE, period!
If you want to get rid of the restricter, talk to JohnnyCheese for the GPS mod that's $70. It is the best $70 you can spend for TOP SPEED otherwise the TRE is pointless.
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Take the TRE off and throw it in the trash. If the bike is mapped properly (with the PC) you DO NOT NEED A TRE, period!
If you want to get rid of the restricter, talk to JohnnyCheese for the GPS mod that's $70. It is the best $70 you can spend for TOP SPEED otherwise the TRE is pointless.
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I think you need to alter your existing map . Be it timing , fuel or some of both .
Myself I would never spend the 115.00 bucks for that Ivans deal but the JDS for 44.00 I would .
The PC USB cannot add timing below 4k rpm unless you buy the Power Commander ignition module . Using the JDS-3 on stock compression engines can help give the engine more snap down low . It's not all about the 186 mph thing .
Just put it on BEFORE mapping the USB is all if you want additional timing under 4k rpm . When mapping a USB you can always take some timing back out at the 80% and 100% settings and of course taking some fuel out if needed here n there .
Don't trust me on it though . Quasar says same thing .
TRE Thread
Another TRE thread
You can even use the JDS-3 when tuning with a TEKA on milder engines . More race shops than you might think use the TEKA on the mild engines . Lee's Performance is one of them .
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Garrett!
Yea I have a Quasar Map and have been talking a little to him he is very noledgable . So throw my Ivans out and buy a JDS-3 Huh..
, I went and read those two Threads but everyone raved about the Ivans TRE. Maybe I misunderstood you or something but still dont know the diffence between the two
. I little thick some times . LOL...
Where did I say to throw the one you have out and buy the JDS ?So throw my Ivans out and buy a JDS-3 Huh.., I went and read those two Threads but everyone raved about the Ivans TRE. Maybe I misunderstood you or something but still dont know the diffence between the two
. I little thick some times . LOL...
The difference between the two is money , quite a bit of it .
When I posted first time I did not know you had one . Now that you know that , please re-read . The last post was about TRE's , how they could add timing if needed or wanted , how they should be put on before mapping .
The other guy said to throw it away , not me .
You need you map tweeked . I'd say it again but my voice is getting weak saying it so much
I recommend thowing the TRE away, it's junk plain and simple!
Buy a PCIIIR so you can adjust your timing if that is your desired goal. That or get one of the new USB style but you will have to pay extra for the tuning box/module to go with it.
Either way, you are talking 2 maybe 3rwhp with all of that work and money. If you want more LOW-MID range KICK, you need to either add power or change your gearing.
I would recommend +2 in the back or -1 in the front if that still isn't enough, you can do BOTH but it is going to be a wheelie machine. Make sure you have a good chain because that is going to put more stress on it and the OEM is crap for increased Power and abuse....
If you already have a gear change, your next step could be some Yosh Cams. They are good for 8-12rwhp and improved mid-range. How much are you looking to spend and what are your goals for the bike??
Josh
Buy a PCIIIR so you can adjust your timing if that is your desired goal. That or get one of the new USB style but you will have to pay extra for the tuning box/module to go with it.
Either way, you are talking 2 maybe 3rwhp with all of that work and money. If you want more LOW-MID range KICK, you need to either add power or change your gearing.
I would recommend +2 in the back or -1 in the front if that still isn't enough, you can do BOTH but it is going to be a wheelie machine. Make sure you have a good chain because that is going to put more stress on it and the OEM is crap for increased Power and abuse....
If you already have a gear change, your next step could be some Yosh Cams. They are good for 8-12rwhp and improved mid-range. How much are you looking to spend and what are your goals for the bike??
Josh
Hey , no problem .
Just tell him " Quasar " what rpm range your having trouble in while riding in town and get him to tweek the map .
I am assuming he built that map knowing you have the TRE ?
Yes he did ,Dose the TRE ever go bad ?.I'm thinking first of taking the TRE off and re installing the Map to see if there is any Difference , first before I go talk to him " Quasar "again ,you know try a couple of things first to delete other mabe problems . That way I can have some ansewers for him" Quasar ".
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