Harbor Feight trailer on sale on-line - $299.99
- Thread starter IG.
- Start date
Here's two options if you are really worried about it...
you could upgrade the axle (~$170)
Reliable 5-Lug Axle Kit — 2000-Lb. Capacity | Axle Kits | Northern Tool + Equipment
or you can swap the hubs (~$60/each)
Tie Down Engineering 5-Lug Hub/Spindle End Unit for Build Your Own Trailer Axle System — 3500-Lb. Capacity, Model# 80117 | Axle Spindles | Northern Tool + Equipment
Both are not insignificant options, though would likely extend the usefulness of the trailer for longer distances
you could upgrade the axle (~$170)
Reliable 5-Lug Axle Kit — 2000-Lb. Capacity | Axle Kits | Northern Tool + Equipment
or you can swap the hubs (~$60/each)
Tie Down Engineering 5-Lug Hub/Spindle End Unit for Build Your Own Trailer Axle System — 3500-Lb. Capacity, Model# 80117 | Axle Spindles | Northern Tool + Equipment
Both are not insignificant options, though would likely extend the usefulness of the trailer for longer distances
IG.
Registered
OK, guys, I received the trailer. I looked for 4x4 pattern wheels around, and I just don't see a viable/$$ effective solution. Besides, the wheels/tires I got look pretty big to me, and the stamp on the wheels says max speed is 55 mph. So, it seems I will stick with the stock wheels.
The trailer is rated 1200 lb payload, and I will be carrying roughly half of that. So, I think I will be OK with that. There is another consideration, I need the trailer to be reasonably light because I want to be able to tilt it to be allmost on its side in order to get it through the 4-ft gate I have so I can move it to my back yard when not in use.
Just need to finish maintenance on the 'Busa, and then the fun begins. Appreciate everybody's input and suggestions.
Oh, another question - the manual recommends to have tires at 60 psi for the full load of 1200 lb. If I will be carrying half of that and want a softer ride and avoid breaking the wheel if I hit a pothole, can I drop it to let's say 50 psi?
The trailer is rated 1200 lb payload, and I will be carrying roughly half of that. So, I think I will be OK with that. There is another consideration, I need the trailer to be reasonably light because I want to be able to tilt it to be allmost on its side in order to get it through the 4-ft gate I have so I can move it to my back yard when not in use.
Just need to finish maintenance on the 'Busa, and then the fun begins. Appreciate everybody's input and suggestions.
Oh, another question - the manual recommends to have tires at 60 psi for the full load of 1200 lb. If I will be carrying half of that and want a softer ride and avoid breaking the wheel if I hit a pothole, can I drop it to let's say 50 psi?
MarkZ28
Registered
Dont drop it too much since low pressure causes heat which is the biggest destroyer of tires. I would start at 60 and then maybe try 55 and see what that does. Feel the tires after a drive and see if they feel hot. You can probably do 65 mph and be safe, they always rate the speeds way low to prevent lawsuits from people who would go faster than the real max limit if they posted the true max rating. Otherwise, try and find some tires rated for higher speeds later if you do want to go over 55. As far as 4 lugs, check the older Japanese cars like 240SX's, etc. They are 4 lug on the pre S15 versions. Make sure the offset is correct though. I think the lug pattern on the 240SX is 4 X 100 and I think a lot of the other Jap cars use the same.
thelakeshow2k
Registered
do think this trailer can handle 2 bikes. i was thinking of towin my busa and my brother's cbr 1000
thelakeshow2k
Registered
why? is this unsafe? i think it falls within the towing weight limits.
IG.
Registered
Don't do it.
Reason 1. You will have a real challenge to load two bikes on the trailer - there is simply not enough room.
Reason 2. You will have a real challenge to strap both bikes - again not enough room for straps.
Reason 3. The trailer will be close to its max capacity (two bikes, trailer deck, ramp, gas, etc - all adds up). Even if you overcome items 1 and 2, with full load you better drive very slowly, and you better don't hit any bumps. It's a very light trailer - for the lack of a better word, too flimsy. I wouldn't go to full load. Just because tires are rated... Also remember, it says full load when the load is spread somewhat evenly - like a bunch of bags. Also consider the fact the the center of gravity will be much higher because of the two bikes sitting up top - so stability in turns maybe a real issue.
Reason 1. You will have a real challenge to load two bikes on the trailer - there is simply not enough room.
Reason 2. You will have a real challenge to strap both bikes - again not enough room for straps.
Reason 3. The trailer will be close to its max capacity (two bikes, trailer deck, ramp, gas, etc - all adds up). Even if you overcome items 1 and 2, with full load you better drive very slowly, and you better don't hit any bumps. It's a very light trailer - for the lack of a better word, too flimsy. I wouldn't go to full load. Just because tires are rated... Also remember, it says full load when the load is spread somewhat evenly - like a bunch of bags. Also consider the fact the the center of gravity will be much higher because of the two bikes sitting up top - so stability in turns maybe a real issue.
IG.
Registered
Just wanted to give an update on this Harbor Freight trailer. I had 5 trips so far, averaging 400 miles per trip - so total of about 2000 miles.
I am pretty happy with the trailer. Driving at 65-70 continuously, and occasionally doing 75 - all of that with no issues.
I did install bearing buddy on each wheel hub, and pumped a good quality grease in there (green stuff), and periodically check for overheating - so far, just a bit warm.
I did install TPMS (actually on my car tires and trailer tires), so I don't need to guess what my tire pressure is - just a glance at the monitor and I know. And if the pressure goes too low, the monitor starts beeping.
I did use 3/4" marine grade plywood (solid piece 4' x 8'), which I later covered with rubber (glued rubber mats from home depot on top - the reason I did it I felt the exposed wood would be a bit too slippery when wet, in case I need to load/unload my bike in the rain), installed a few D-rings, and Harbor Freight bike chock (the solid black one, not the flimsy silver one).
To be on safe side, I tie down the handlebars using canyon dancer, and regular tie downs through the passenger footped holders, and the rear wheel to the trailer.
The poor thing went through many tough bumps which can be found around NYC Tri-State area.
I use a ramp also from HF (tri-fold, about 6ft long, and looks like three ladders stitched together). I covered all three ramps with 1/2" marine grade plywood, and then glued non-slippery paper which looks like rolls of sand paper. Again, I did this so the ramp is not slipperry even in the rain.
I have to use two pieces of wood about 4' long, 1' wide, 2" thick and placed part on the ramp and part on the ground so that I can always flat foot and not drop the bike. I also have to put similar (but shorter) two pieces of wood on the trailer under my feet when loading/unloading the bike so I can stand taller and can easier roll the bike on and off the chock. All four pieces of wood are covered with the rubber to have good traction in the wet, so I don't slip.
So, what do I carry on the trailer? The bike, the ramp, EZ-up canopy, the two larger pieces of wood. Alltogether close to 1000 lb.
The one inconvenience is that it takes some time to put it all together, tie all of it down, and tuck all the lose ends - around 40 min.
I pull this baby with my family car - '02 Dodge Intrepid. The weight of the trailer is noticeable, but not terribly bad.
I also installed a trailer jack. This makes it easy to park the trailer when not in use, but what turned out to be very convenient that I can load the bike and the stuff ahead of time (at that time the trailer needs to be hooked to the car). Once loaded and tied down, I can disconnect the trailer and just roll it in the garage for the night. So, the day I need to go, I only need to pack some personal stuff in the car, hook up the trailer and go. Still takes some time, but at least the trailer with the bike, ramp, EZ Up canopy on it is ready.
Oh, yeah, I had a sign made which read the following:
HONK ONCE IF YOU LOVE RIDING
HONK TWICE IF YOU LOVE TRACK DAYS
I got quite a few single and double honks. Well, until on one trip the mount for the sign broke, and the sign blew off - I discovered this only when I got home.
I guess that's all I can report.
I am pretty happy with the trailer. Driving at 65-70 continuously, and occasionally doing 75 - all of that with no issues.
I did install bearing buddy on each wheel hub, and pumped a good quality grease in there (green stuff), and periodically check for overheating - so far, just a bit warm.
I did install TPMS (actually on my car tires and trailer tires), so I don't need to guess what my tire pressure is - just a glance at the monitor and I know. And if the pressure goes too low, the monitor starts beeping.
I did use 3/4" marine grade plywood (solid piece 4' x 8'), which I later covered with rubber (glued rubber mats from home depot on top - the reason I did it I felt the exposed wood would be a bit too slippery when wet, in case I need to load/unload my bike in the rain), installed a few D-rings, and Harbor Freight bike chock (the solid black one, not the flimsy silver one).
To be on safe side, I tie down the handlebars using canyon dancer, and regular tie downs through the passenger footped holders, and the rear wheel to the trailer.
The poor thing went through many tough bumps which can be found around NYC Tri-State area.
I use a ramp also from HF (tri-fold, about 6ft long, and looks like three ladders stitched together). I covered all three ramps with 1/2" marine grade plywood, and then glued non-slippery paper which looks like rolls of sand paper. Again, I did this so the ramp is not slipperry even in the rain.
I have to use two pieces of wood about 4' long, 1' wide, 2" thick and placed part on the ramp and part on the ground so that I can always flat foot and not drop the bike. I also have to put similar (but shorter) two pieces of wood on the trailer under my feet when loading/unloading the bike so I can stand taller and can easier roll the bike on and off the chock. All four pieces of wood are covered with the rubber to have good traction in the wet, so I don't slip.
So, what do I carry on the trailer? The bike, the ramp, EZ-up canopy, the two larger pieces of wood. Alltogether close to 1000 lb.
The one inconvenience is that it takes some time to put it all together, tie all of it down, and tuck all the lose ends - around 40 min.
I pull this baby with my family car - '02 Dodge Intrepid. The weight of the trailer is noticeable, but not terribly bad.
I also installed a trailer jack. This makes it easy to park the trailer when not in use, but what turned out to be very convenient that I can load the bike and the stuff ahead of time (at that time the trailer needs to be hooked to the car). Once loaded and tied down, I can disconnect the trailer and just roll it in the garage for the night. So, the day I need to go, I only need to pack some personal stuff in the car, hook up the trailer and go. Still takes some time, but at least the trailer with the bike, ramp, EZ Up canopy on it is ready.
Oh, yeah, I had a sign made which read the following:
HONK ONCE IF YOU LOVE RIDING
HONK TWICE IF YOU LOVE TRACK DAYS
I got quite a few single and double honks. Well, until on one trip the mount for the sign broke, and the sign blew off - I discovered this only when I got home.
I guess that's all I can report.
CrotchRocket
Registered
this is great info IG. any pics of your trailer?
12 inch wheels..... ok for short trips......
Burn them up in no time....
I don't like those size wheels either, doesn't look like a long distance hauler, but a great thing to have to move your bike around.
You can safely and cheaply move your bike around, whether it be a repair facility, or parts to a repair or paint shop. Nice thing that doesn't take up to much space waiting for use
The Harbor trailer is fine for hauling your Busa. Personally, I purchased the trailer for hauling odds and in's to and from our house, yard and when my wifes want to ride out of town with me on her on two wheels. 
Also, if I need to get mike bike to a shop for something I can not fix.
First long haul trip with both bikes on board was over 400 mile one way through the Virgina Mts. to D.C. (Memorial weekend) with no issues. My speed ranged between 55mph to 70mph. Always check you hold down straps,tire psi, and do visual inspection of the rim for signs of bearing grease on the on the face and backside for splatter of grease. After a couple hundred of mile you may notice a few splatter on the rim, no worries.
Below are a couple of photos of our bikes mounted on Harbor Freight Chock Stands purchased for $75. The chock stands are bolted to the trailer using t-nuts (for easy removal of the chock stand). When I'm ready to store the trailer in the garage I unbolt the chock stand and fold her up. I have to give my boy BBBusa for sending me a $35coupon for these puppies.
Just a side note, make sure to properly pack the wheel bearings using the proper grease before installing. The stock grease applied from the factory is shid.
Here's a video link how to pack your bearing.
- Correct way to pack a wheel bearing[/url]
Also, if I need to get mike bike to a shop for something I can not fix.First long haul trip with both bikes on board was over 400 mile one way through the Virgina Mts. to D.C. (Memorial weekend) with no issues. My speed ranged between 55mph to 70mph. Always check you hold down straps,tire psi, and do visual inspection of the rim for signs of bearing grease on the on the face and backside for splatter of grease. After a couple hundred of mile you may notice a few splatter on the rim, no worries.
Below are a couple of photos of our bikes mounted on Harbor Freight Chock Stands purchased for $75. The chock stands are bolted to the trailer using t-nuts (for easy removal of the chock stand). When I'm ready to store the trailer in the garage I unbolt the chock stand and fold her up. I have to give my boy BBBusa for sending me a $35coupon for these puppies.
Just a side note, make sure to properly pack the wheel bearings using the proper grease before installing. The stock grease applied from the factory is shid.
Here's a video link how to pack your bearing.
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How's everyone HF trailer holding up? I just got one myself for the 30mile trips to the track with my drag bike.
The only thing I see with it is it's a bit flimsy. When you put the deck on (3/4 plywood) does it stiffin up a bit?
The only thing I see with it is it's a bit flimsy. When you put the deck on (3/4 plywood) does it stiffin up a bit?
I bought that $299.99 trialer last week. With the 20% off coupon printed in every Sunday newspaper I got it for $239.99. I saved over $65.00 when you calculate the sales tax. Harbor Freight is about 2.5 miles away so I bought in store. If you buy the same trailer online from Harbor Freight you don't get the 20% off and you have to pay about $98.00 for shipping with the total over $398.00 (67% more than I paid).. I saved $160.00 by buying it in store instead of online.
