DONT USE MOBIL 1!

(bacharles @ Aug. 14 2004 said:
I use the Mobil 1 MX4T and it's great stuff.  Thinking of changing to a "naturally" synthetic oil on my next change to give it a run.  NO ADDITIVES in a "naturally" synthetic motor oil.  I can't go too much into detail, but I'm a Lab Tech for an oil refinery and the hydrocracking technology is amazing.  It's that ol' G-14 classified stuff.
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                                      Brian
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Please help me to understand this, if I understand correctly, a synthetic oil ( true synthetic,not a blend) is a man made oil,as opposed to old dinosaurs. So how can a "naturally" synthetic oil have no additives?
 
I know I'm askin for trouble when I say this BUT nobody brought up AMSOIL yet. AMSOIL has no friction modifiers and it's wet clutch compatible.
I also used to say that all the synthetic oil are good and most are for how often everybody seem to change it. See if one of you guys that have more knowledge than me and been doin it a little longer too. I have a friend that has a Harley
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and always used the Harley synthetic motorcycle oil. I got him to try the AMSOIL 20w-50 and he said it is shifting SO much beter. Alot smoother and was not nochi. He acually power shifted and when it slid right into 2nd the rear tire broke loose and scared the crap out of him. He said that he beat the crap out of it before and that has never happen. From 1st to 2nd mind you. NOW being that my old thought was that most of the synthetic oil are pretty close. This gives me a new angle that I'm not really sure about.
ANY THOUGHTS (no smart asses)

http://www.puresynthetics.com
 
i just loaded my bike up with red cap last week 500 miles so far.
i think om going to go get the spendy stuff next time.
i dont like the way it shifts.
but it seems to run just fine and it did a run on the track fine also.
but im am going back to the spedy stuff next time
 
1badasbusa
I have used nothing but amsoil 10-40 synthetic motorcycle oil and there filter since breakin and i dont have any complaints about it at all
 
I won't put anything that's not API certified in my vehicles so that does away with "genuine" AMSOIL.

It's also a Fuller Brush/Mary Kay Cosmetic/Herbalife type company. Lots of wild claims from the people that use it...only problem is they also SELL IT or are sponsored by it. Don't believe me? Do a Google search and see all the corny half ass sites that pop up...they are worse than those offering viagra and magical breast englargement pills.

Sorry but I'll pick up my Mobile 1 or Castrol from Wally World or Autozone, not some creep in a beat up 74 Dodge in a liquor store parking lot at night.

BTW, I'm not into hardleys at all but don't they have a separate crankcase, transmission case and chain case, therefore the engine oil IS NOT shared with the tranny?
 
MOBILE ONE RED CAP HERE.. ABOUT 1250 MILES ON IT SO FAR AND STILL SHOWING THE SAME AS WHEN I PUT IT IN.. NO BURN OFF.... NOT SURE IF I WOULD SPEND THE DIFF. FOR THE MXT4 .
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(Glyn @ Aug. 15 2004 said:
(bacharles @ Aug. 14 2004 said:
I use the Mobil 1 MX4T and it's great stuff.  Thinking of changing to a "naturally" synthetic oil on my next change to give it a run.  NO ADDITIVES in a "naturally" synthetic motor oil.  I can't go too much into detail, but I'm a Lab Tech for an oil refinery and the hydrocracking technology is amazing.  It's that ol' G-14 classified stuff.
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wink.gif


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                                      Brian
Click to expand...
Please help me to understand this, if I understand correctly, a synthetic oil ( true synthetic,not a blend) is a man made oil,as opposed to old dinosaurs. So how can a "naturally" synthetic oil have no additives?
Click to expand...
Well Glyn, as I said before, I can't honestly speak of the process in technical terms. All I can say is that the process of hydrocracking uses real high sour crudes to produce light and "naturally" synthetic base oils. The oil is actually 'clear' in color. It looks just like you're purchasing a quart of baby oil. The oil is under the Conoco and Pennzoil names and the product is called "Hydroclear."



Brian
 
Turbo Torch
 You are right about everyone that uses it is useally a dealer because it is easier buy the AMSOIL products from your self at WHOLESALE and get it shipped to your front door rather than meeting some shcmuck in a liquor store parking lot. If I had to do that you are damn right I wouldn't be useing AMSOIL either BUT ,The way I do it is I like the product and if someone is interested I let them know that they can be a Preffered Customer or a Dealer for less money than joining Cosco or Sams Club. I just like to give that opion. I mainly joined because I like the AMSOIL whole line so I might as well buy it from my self. Thats the way I promote it to buy it at whole sale not like alot of guys who try and rape you for no reason.
I had no problem with Mobil 1. I used it up to 90k in my S/C YOTA and never had a problem. When you change your oil at 3k on what ever you ride or drive I think that you will be ok.



http://www.puresynthetics.com
 
Turbo Torch
Sorry for the bad pics but is this what you are talking about when you say an API.  
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 This is the motorcycle 10w-40. I'm not trying to be a smart ass. I'm just askin so i know from now on  
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http://www.puresynthetics.com



<!--EDIT|1badasbusa
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AMSOIL_BOTTLES_API001.jpg
 
I have been using "are you ready" Hondaline mineral 10/40...and even mineral Castrol 10/40 during the winter..cheap.....oil never gets too dirty between changes.
And shifts/ runs awsome....17k now and this Busa has been "beat on" pretty hard here and there".....hmmmmm what is it with oil......as long as it has the polymers too cushion the gears..all is well.
 
That's why I said and even quoted the word "genuine".

AMSOIL got so much flack over their product not being API certified they started another small line of oil where they just bought third party base stock that other oil companies use in order to get the API rating.
This used to be discussed in detail on their own web site.

Maybe all their oil is now API certified? I still have to question their integrity when I read stuff like this:

APPLICATIONS

AMSOIL High Performance Synthetic Motorcycle Oils may be used in all four-cycle air- and liquid-cooled gasoline motorcycle engines and is recommended for applications requiring the following specifications:

API Service SJ, SH, SG, SF, CI-4, CH-4, CG-4, CF-2, CF, CD, JASO MA


I'm no lawyer, but nowhere did they mention that the oil is API certified, only that it is recommended for use in engines requiring those specifics.

Now go to their small line of "X" oils which were the ones using common base stock in order to get API approval:

Meets or exceeds the following specifications for domestic and foreign gasoline engines:

API SL, SJ
ILSAC GF-3, GF-2
Ford WSS-M2C205A, M2C153G
GM 4718M
Chrysler MS 10440, MS 6395H
ACEA A1, B1
JASO VTW

Now they go out of their way to tell you that it meets API certifications.
 
(1badasbusa @ Aug. 15 2004 said:
I know I'm askin for trouble when I say this BUT nobody brought up AMSOIL yet. AMSOIL has no friction modifiers and it's wet clutch compatible.
 I also used to say that all the synthetic oil are good and most are for how often everybody seem to change it. See if one of you guys that have more knowledge than me and been doin it a little longer too. I have a friend that has a Harley
sad.gif
and always used the Harley synthetic motorcycle oil. I got him to try the AMSOIL 20w-50 and he said it is shifting SO much beter. Alot smoother and was not nochi. He acually power shifted and when it slid right into 2nd the rear tire broke loose and scared the crap out of him. He said that he beat the crap out of it before and that has never happen. From 1st to 2nd mind you. NOW being that my old thought was that most of the synthetic oil are pretty close. This gives me a new angle that I'm not really sure about.
ANY THOUGHTS (no smart asses)

http://www.puresynthetics.com
Click to expand...
Not to be a Smartass but engine oil has nothing to do with how a harley shifts or the clutch. A Harley has a dry sump engine with a remote oil bag. They use (in the sportster) a seperate primary/transmission oil. In the big twins a seperate primary, seperate transmission, And a seperate Engine oil. The V-Rod may be a wet sump but I don't know about that one.
 
Alisyn prodrive 0W in mine no clutch or any other problem with it 1000 miles on it now. Thicker isnt better. Thats old school thinking. But one step past all that motor oil is motor oil I can show you all kind of cars,trucks,bikes what ever with alot of miles on them all different kinds of oil used. As long as its kept clean it dont matter.
 
if nj's boosted busa can handle it I'm sure my N/A one can too.
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mobile1 since 400mi on the odo.

been racing the bike for over a year. still stock clutch, and no problems.


take that for what its worth.

rsd will tell ya it aint worth dog doo, but thats just him.........
 
Seems like everyone has their own preference and reasons for using and that's cool. The only problem is that we will NEVER know which is quote/unquote 'BEST'. I think we all love our Busa's and the only bad oil is NO OIL!!!
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Hopefully we can just get past this oil issue and move on to something else like... "What's a TRE?
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"
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Shiiiit, I'm starting to be as cynical as ol' Revlis. NOW THAT'S SCARY...
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Well someone has to take his place whenever he decides to go on vacation.


Brian:O
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