Bike setup for mile and 1/2 mile racing

[michael parris heuberger]

@michael parris heuberger what events are you doing next year? Maybe I’ll get to race you at one of them. How much power are you going to be making?

@01smokes I hear you and feel things should be implemented when they are holding you back. Ken Hill teaches this when it comes to riding techniques and because of him I’ve passed guys while riding a ninja 250 and they were on a 1000.

That said suspension is not snake oil and maybe it’s not holding me back but the stock spring is too stiff for my weight. I will be leaving the forks stock thanks to you and will hold off on the shock for now.

Ken Hill (motorcyclist) - Wikipedia

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Hi. It will be Loring Mane. The bike is still apart. On VP M1 it should be about 1000 HP. I trying to run in the 270's MPH.

 

[TonyM995]

Hi. I am interested but why only 1000 hp? If you want big power in a 4 cylinder, Mazworx SR20 makes 2000 hp and my personal drag and drive car is going to be powered by a Steve Morris SMX at 4,500 hp.

Hahaha I’m just joking with you in response to you saying this to @powerfulone in his supercharger thread. Peace and love @michael parris heuberger peace and love sir.

But really this thread is about chassis setup and in my experience there is no one ‘perfect’ setup for anything. So let’s talk about chassis setup.

What length swingarm are you going to run? I don’t think the short-necking and some other stuff you’re doing to your bike would be good for LSR but I could be wrong. How fast have you gone prior to all of the work you’re currently doing?

 

[greg3852]

For my 325hp Busa I went with a 2-6” over Evil swingarm and a Penske Triple adjustable. Front is lowered 1.5 I think. I have the single stage lockup and hd output shaft. I know nothing about setup so I’m taking the bike to one of the best for setting up a roll racing bike EJR Performance. I’m set at 4” over right now.

Oh I also have Soupy’s adjustable links in the rear. Over the summer some of the racers were breaking the Brocks links. Soupy’s are extremely robust.

 

[michael parris heuberger]

Hi. I am interested but why only 1000 hp? If you want big power in a 4 cylinder, Mazworx SR20 makes 2000 hp and my personal drag and drive car is going to be powered by a Steve Morris SMX at 4,500 hp.

Hahaha I’m just joking with you in response to you saying this to @powerfulone in his supercharger thread. Peace and love @michael parris heuberger peace and love sir.

But really this thread is about chassis setup and in my experience there is no one ‘perfect’ setup for anything. So let’s talk about chassis setup.

What length swingarm are you going to run? I don’t think the short-necking and some other stuff you’re doing to your bike would be good for LSR but I could be wrong. How fast have you gone prior to all of the work you’re currently doing?

Hi. 6 to 12 short neck, Penske skock with a Ti spring, 1 inch + offset front tree, 2 inch inturnally lowered focks and I am raising the swingarm pivot up 12mm's bike 208, Alcohol FC car 221 and a F5000 Lola T 142 234 at Daytona and Mach 1 in an F 105 Thunderchief as a passenger.

 

[TonyM995]

For my 325hp Busa I went with a 2-6” over Evil swingarm and a Penske Triple adjustable. Front is lowered 1.5 I think. I have the single stage lockup and hd output shaft. I know nothing about setup so I’m taking the bike to one of the best for setting up a roll racing bike EJR Performance. I’m set at 4” over right now.

Oh I also have Soupy’s adjustable links in the rear. Over the summer some of the racers were breaking the Brocks links. Soupy’s are extremely robust.

2-6” over seems like a good option, thanks @greg3852.

You can do the suspension yourself. I paid an average shop to ‘setup’ a bike of mine a long time ago and I just had to re-do it myself.

I’d ask the vendor you got the shock from for baseline settings. I backed the hydraulics all the way out and rode, then all the way in and ride. Then I put it to the suggested settings and got a feeling for what the bike is doing under me for each of the changes.

Set your sag first. This is preload on the spring. As noted in my build sheet, M2 told me rider weight/position and swingarm length dictates spring rate. Different arms will need a different spring.

Once that’s set M2 said more power is controlled by the hydraulics (compression/rebound). The main thing I’ve learned with drag racing is you want the rear to squat and not rebound too fast or too slow. I’ll link to a playlist of 4 videos I have on this and I’m sure you will be able to do this yourself.

To me half of this hobby is working on the bike yourself and getting a feel for what it’s doing underneath you.

Power is less a limiting factor compared to putting that power to the ground; from what I can tell. That’s why I invested in a Fueltech; their focus is drag racing in cars with way more power than traction.

Also Michael I was kidding with you on my above post but trying to be funny is easier in person for me apparently. Good luck with your build and please post more pictures for us to drool over.

I’m probably going to ditch my front strap. 01 Smokes and M2 both stated that fork travel is a big part of getting the bike to hook up (see the M2 video in my playlist) and I agree. Also at 200+ mph I do not want a completely locked down fork- these air strips are not likely to be smooth.

https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLVj-ve1qr9pWTCc5fVkwURp5zHmK8MLaE

 

[Got-Busa?]

First off, pump the brakes and stop ordering parts and CANCEL that FuelTech order first thing in the morning before it ships. If it does ship, send it back and don’t waste your money. As of now, it won’t interface with the Gen-3 dash or electronics. If you must run a standalone, get with Greg Smith and run his plug and play Maxx for less cost.

Second, what is your goal and what speeds are you trying to run?

You don’t need to waste money on a bunch of that stuff but other stuff is more important. I’d recommend you going to an event stock or basic mods FIRST and feel it out.

Why spend $60k when $10-20k might get it done? If you plan on hunting 3,000hp $1M+ TT-Lamborghini’s then I wouldn’t start with a new Gen-3 but either way you’re spending over $100k+.

 

[TonyM995]

Got Busa, what mods are more important? I’m not interested in using the stock dash and the Fueltech lets me get rid of it. I don’t think bikes can compete with the fastest cars but I’d like to see what I’m capable of.

Tuco I’m the builder and tuner so it will just be me in my garage doing this:

 

[busakiller]

For a swingarm I would do a 2-6 arm. The 1st part of the track isn’t your worry. It should be the back half where you have to lay the power down. The longer the swingarm the worse traction you will have. And at these events the surface sucks compared to the street. Its rough and dirty surface so grip will be hard to get. Stubbs puts a lot of weight on his bike to help it get traction too. So try and cut weight as much as possible so when you add weight you can add it in places that will help you but also keep total weight down. Long distance racing is different than 1/4 mile. I have done some testing 1/4 with some lsr stuff and did see some gain and can’t imagine what that would be at 1/2 or mile long distance. 200 mph in a half mile is going pretty good but 220 on up your doing something that’s for sure.

 

[busakiller]

Got Busa, what mods are more important? I’m not interested in using the stock dash and the Fueltech lets me get rid of it. I don’t think bikes can compete with the fastest cars but I’d like to see what I’m capable of.

Tuco I’m the builder and tuner so it will just be me in my garage doing this:

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I like the fuel tech for that reason and it has multiple other great things on it that other e us don’t have. There’s many bike out there running fuel tech that are kicking ass. Get whatever ecu you want and learn it.

 

[Got-Busa?]

If you don’t care about the Gen-3 dash or interface then go for the FuelTech but no reason to completely trash the Gen-3 stuff when the Maxx allows you to plug and play to keep everything and it’s cheaper..

Got Busa, what mods are more important? I’m not interested in using the stock dash and the Fueltech lets me get rid of it. I don’t think bikes can compete with the fastest cars but I’d like to see what I’m capable of.

Tuco I’m the builder and tuner so it will just be me in my garage doing this:

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What is your goal? What do you consider fastest cars? Are you trying to be quick for a short race or fast for top end runs?

Realistically, you need two bikes for this. You can do it with one but the setups are so different it wouldn’t be worth the time and work going back and forth.

Get a Gen-1/2 for a LSR build to make stupid power and use your Gen-3 for a 1/4-mile build.

Unless you are trying to run 6’s and race competitively, you just don’t need to spend the money. I mean you can but why?

You can run 8’s pretty easy and 230MPH+ on a SWB stock suspension bike. Anything past that and the road starts to split for the direction you want next.

 

[TonyM995]

My goal is to ride fast and have fun. We have some twin turbo lambos/vipers/R8’s and at the track in the roll race format they run 160-180 mph. I live at 6,000 ft outside of Denver.

My other goal is to connect with people on here and maybe meet some at the 1/2 and mile races. I’ll probably only do one or two per year and will deal with changing the setup as needed.

Looking back at some of my earlier posts in this thread I can see my communication wasn’t great but I’m still recovering from Covid that I got after Thanksgiving.

What I was trying to say earlier in this thread is I only get to ride my road race bike 5 or so times per year (I’m sill going to ride it). The drag strip has open days every Wednesday and most weekends so the Busa gives me a lot more seat time compared to road racing.

I started this thread to try and avoid driving 15 hours to Arkansas and completely miss the proper setup. Like if a 4-8” arm is no good for LSR then I’d like someone like you to tell me.

My build is being driven by what excites me but also I’m competitive and want to go as fast as I can. Others who need and want a more budget build should stick to their budget. I’m sticking to my budget and that includes some parts that cost more than others.

Here is a local fast guy by me. Sure he could have built a different car for less money but he didn’t. I can’t afford what he has but I’m an enthusiast and think it’s cool there are people out there building these crazy cars.

 

[TonyM995]

@TucoSalimonca I don’t know what your deal is but you come across as very negative for no reason. Did I do something wrong? Why hate on my build?

I started this thread looking for chassis setup things and to chat with people Who have raced 1/2 and 1 mile events. If you want to debate Maxx vs Fueltech or building vs paying a shop, I started a thread in the Gen 3 section about my build. Granted it’s got the worst title ever so oh well.

 

[Dnyce]

Since u going fueltech, which is cool, I think you wasted a lot of money on buying a gen 3 instead of a gen 1/2. Unless you really liked the new body style.

Besides that, do your thing and post about it. It’s not rocket science if u have the time to focus on it and u not scared to blow it up

Psychobike2? As in Facebook? Bcuz I thought psychobike died a slow death

 

[TonyM995]

@TucoSalimonca Understood. If I had any doubt in my ability I’d go to a shop but for me half of the hobby is wrenching and getting the bike to work. Sure it’s not easy and often a headache but so is life.

@Dnyce I just wanted a brand new bike and didn’t plan on Fueltech when I bought it. Just don’t want to deal with the bs dash in the bike and do want a digital speedometer.

 

[Got-Busa?]

My goal is to ride fast and have fun. We have some twin turbo lambos/vipers/R8’s and at the track in the roll race format they run 160-180 mph. I live at 6,000 ft outside of Denver.

My other goal is to connect with people on here and maybe meet some at the 1/2 and mile races. I’ll probably only do one or two per year and will deal with changing the setup as needed.

Looking back at some of my earlier posts in this thread I can see my communication wasn’t great but I’m still recovering from Covid that I got after Thanksgiving.

What I was trying to say earlier in this thread is I only get to ride my road race bike 5 or so times per year (I’m sill going to ride it). The drag strip has open days every Wednesday and most weekends so the Busa gives me a lot more seat time compared to road racing.

I started this thread to try and avoid driving 15 hours to Arkansas and completely miss the proper setup. Like if a 4-8” arm is no good for LSR then I’d like someone like you to tell me.

My build is being driven by what excites me but also I’m competitive and want to go as fast as I can. Others who need and want a more budget build should stick to their budget. I’m sticking to my budget and that includes some parts that cost more than others.

Here is a local fast guy by me. Sure he could have built a different car for less money but he didn’t. I can’t afford what he has but I’m an enthusiast and think it’s cool there are people out there building these crazy cars.
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Welcome to the forum and I hope to see you at one of the events and hope you can get the help you are looking for.

Unfortunately the bike scene has turned to Facebook groups and people recommending a lot of high cost items you really don’t need at the end of the day. Conditions (track and weather) can change so much that stuff people often swear by can make you slower at the end of the day.

I recommend two bike’s because if you plan on racing at the level to take down 2-3,000hp cars you’re going to spend a lot of time wrenching and for me that’s no fun. If you’re working on it as much or more than you ride it, it gets old quick. You really want a high power Turbo bike for this and a street bike you can take to the dragstrip weekly. You can do both with a Turbo bike but you’ll want to built it pretty tame 300-400hp which won’t have you dominating those MILLION dollar car builds with unlimited budgets.

4-8” arm is to much for LSR. Maybe a 0-4” but it all depends on the track. Like you said, they have ZERO prep and are grooved and bumpy at most events so it’s harder to put down big power with a long arm. Most end up spinning the entire track and kill a tire or two and the weekend after just one or two passes.

I’d bring your Gen-3 out and shoot for 200MPH+ first since I don’t think anyone has officially even done it at a timed event. Ya, everyone posts GPS but running 2-3 miles isn’t exactly anything spectacular. 1/2 or 1-mile from a stop is a different game unless you are doing legit 9/10 from a 40-roll but even then it’s a game.

Point is you can spend what you want, just want you to know you don’t have to throw a bunch of money at a Busa and reinvent the wheel. I’ve run over 200mph stock engine in a Mile and now over 200 in a 1/2 and over 230MPH with a very basic stock wheelbase, stock appearing Busa. Plenty of ways to get it done, just research as much as you can and save yourself a lot of trouble and headaches along the way.

 

[01smokes]

Welcome to the forum and I hope to see you at one of the events and hope you can get the help you are looking for.

Unfortunately the bike scene has turned to Facebook groups and people recommending a lot of high cost items you really don’t need at the end of the day. Conditions (track and weather) can change so much that stuff people often swear by can make you slower at the end of the day.

I recommend two bike’s because if you plan on racing at the level to take down 2-3,000hp cars you’re going to spend a lot of time wrenching and for me that’s no fun. If you’re working on it as much or more than you ride it, it gets old quick. You really want a high power Turbo bike for this and a street bike you can take to the dragstrip weekly. You can do both with a Turbo bike but you’ll want to built it pretty tame 300-400hp which won’t have you dominating those MILLION dollar car builds with unlimited budgets.

4-8” arm is to much for LSR. Maybe a 0-4” but it all depends on the track. Like you said, they have ZERO prep and are grooved and bumpy at most events so it’s harder to put down big power with a long arm. Most end up spinning the entire track and kill a tire or two and the weekend after just one or two passes.

I’d bring your Gen-3 out and shoot for 200MPH+ first since I don’t think anyone has officially even done it at a timed event. Ya, everyone posts GPS but running 2-3 miles isn’t exactly anything spectacular. 1/2 or 1-mile from a stop is a different game unless you are doing legit 9/10 from a 40-roll but even then it’s a game.

Point is you can spend what you want, just want you to know you don’t have to throw a bunch of money at a Busa and reinvent the wheel. I’ve run over 200mph stock engine in a Mile and now over 200 in a 1/2 and over 230MPH with a very basic stock wheelbase, stock appearing Busa. Plenty of ways to get it done, just research as much as you can and save yourself a lot of trouble and headaches along the way.

Just wanted to quote this that way it's seen again.

 

[TonyM995]

Yeah I’m not on Facebook or Instagram. I tried to post a screenshot of a local Denver guy’s dragy times but the resolution was terrible. His Instagram is Doug Hub and his twin turbo Huracan ran 60-130 mph in 2.95 seconds.

https://www.instagram.com/doug_hub/

You and others have helped me so thanks for that. Initially I was trying to keep things “on topic” but I should relax on that.

I’d definitely like to do over 200 in a half mile and just want to push the limits as much as possible.

With Fueltech, I am a big fan of the company and have been for years. I’ll update my build thread after I get it in my hands. Even if I went with a Motec or Maxx I’d want a new dash to have a digital speedometer that will display speeds over 180mph.

Summer can’t come fast enough, I can’t wait.

 

[Got-Busa?]

Yeah I’m not on Facebook or Instagram. I tried to post a screenshot of a local Denver guy’s dragy times but the resolution was terrible. His Instagram is Doug Hub and his twin turbo Huracan ran 60-130 mph in 2.95 seconds.

https://www.instagram.com/doug_hub/

You and others have helped me so thanks for that. Initially I was trying to keep things “on topic” but I should relax on that.

I’d definitely like to do over 200 in a half mile and just want to push the limits as much as possible.

With Fueltech, I am a big fan of the company and have been for years. I’ll update my build thread after I get it in my hands. Even if I went with a Motec or Maxx I’d want a new dash to have a digital speedometer that will display speeds over 180mph.

Summer can’t come fast enough, I can’t wait.

Forgot to add, I did it all on stock ECU and am just now looking to go Maxx pushing for 250MPH+ and only because of logging/tuning ability trackside. Speeds over indicated 180+ aren’t accurate anyway, so get a GPS only to backup the time slips and don’t focus on a digital display.

 

[busakiller]

Here’s a video for you maxx ecu nut swingers. Fuel tech is a great unit. All the stand-alone are great and they all work. This guy picked fuel tech and let him have fun with it. So much negativity here going to drive people away from the forum. I have a maxx ecu and I love it. I would have gone fuel tech but the shop I dealt with knows maxx ecu so went with that.

 

[TonyM995]

@TucoSalimonca Are you seriously comparing BCP to Fueltech??? That’s ignorant af.

Fueltech was at SEMA and PRI. As a company they are superior to Maxx, period. Proline Engines uses them, Steve Morris has Fueltech in his personal station wagon, and countless other high level drag racers use them. I’ve never seen a car with less than 1,000 whp on their dyno.

Does anyone at a high level of CAR drag racing use Maxx? You will say but this isn’t car racing; no but it’s a vehicle with more power than traction trying to make a good pass and that’s all that they do.

I know you’re saying I don’t “need” to spend that money but nobody needs a Hayabusa at all. What I care about is going faster than other people I line up to race and I believe a Fueltech will enable that.

Oh I could have bought a clapped out Gen 1 and paid to rebuild the entire thing. No thanks. I’ve owned clapped out road race bikes and value my life more than that.

All said and done my bike will be far nicer and faster than most bikes on here.

Have you even done any racing at all on your bike? You’ve never had the clutch cover off in 4 years and said that as a flex but that tells me all I need to know about your ability to ride and tune a bike.

Also please write to Anderson bobo and tell him he shouldn’t have put twin turbos on his C8 corvette because you can go 9’s cheaper in a foxbody that’s clapped out with nitrous.

I’m very open to saving money- I shouldn’t have bought woolich and didn’t need to buy the Brembo levers but I do like the levers and the give me a look and feel of premium. Which is what I’m after and I have the money so that’s my problem.