Bike setup for mile and 1/2 mile racing

[TonyM995]

Hey all, I’ve got a few questions and am also looking for any thoughts or experience you have with setting up your bike for racing mile and 1/2 mile events. I’m going to do 1/4 mile stuff at home and would like to travel to Texas and Arkansas for mile events. Shift Sector has 1/2 mile events that I would like to attend as well.

Anything you guys can help with would be great. I’m trying to get my chassis setup and will then figure out the motor/turbo but if you have thoughts on that stuff it would be great.

1) What length swingarm? I’m thinking 4-8” over stock.

2) I was going to get a billet oil pan and also cut some fairing off at the bottom. It seems like having a bit more travel at over 200 mph would be good. See below picture for what I’m thinking of doing.

3) What Clutch do you guys run? I’m looking at an MTC for drag racing and would think that would also work for the longer distance.

4) I’ll have a standalone ecu, what extra sensors do you find helpful? Turbo speed sensor, tire temperature, shock travel or anything else you use that helps?

My build plans:

Is this too low for mile and half mile racing?

 

[moko]

thats a super build list....run it ...lol

 

[202mphbusa]

My normal response to a question like this

Buy a Busa Put a RCC stage one kit on it
Have it Tuned to about 275hp
throw race fuel in it and try land speed first then if the bug has you. then go nuts

a lot of people are not comfy at speed, a buddy admits over 185 he starts freaking
others want a 200 slip and done, this combo will get you there

 

[sixpack577]

@Got-Busa?

 

[TonyM995]

I’m very comfortable at speed and grew up on a Yamaha tri-zinger and Arctic Cat Kittie Cat. I’ve been riding toys like this forever and at 17 years old (I’m 41) my dad bought me a 100 hp Article Cat ZR600. He had the 170 hp Thundercat that I would ride as well.

This fall I sold my 2021 super duke 1290 and had that bike to 170 mph, it was too slow for me. I’ve got a Gen 3 btw so no turbo kit is available yet.

My zx6 at the end of this summer. It’s a lot easier for me to hit Bandimere to do 1/4 mile stuff, they have test and tune every Wednesday. I only did 5 trackdays and love it but I’m looking for more seat time.

 

[TonyM995]

I’ve already purchased a Fueltech FT 600 and am going to wire the bike from scratch myself. Danny Anderson has tuned my bikes in the past and is onboard to help me with anything I need for tuning/dyno use.

Ninjatech Motorsports LLC | Colorado Springs CO

Ninjatech Motorsports LLC, Colorado Springs, Colorado. 598 likes · 3 talking about this · 28 were here. I’m the Ninja in Ninjatech. Its been brought to my attention that people think I just work on Kawa

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Hopefully you will engage in conversation and/or answer my questions above.

Current state of the bike:

Does my cat have a good tuck? Haha =)

 

[greg3852]

I would think that is way too low for what you want. Take a look at Shane Stubbs LSR bike for an idea. I think a 2-6” arm would be enough but I wouldn’t bet my life on it. Seems like a sick build.

 

[TonyM995]

Yeah I was looking at Shane’s bike in a picture from the most recent Shift Sector event. Also 225 mph in a half mile put him in 7th place overall. Wow, those $400k cars are hard to beat.

On average I’ll be doing 1/4 mile stuff but I envision my bike being more of an event bike that I can go drag race and then change the setup and go mile, half mile, or roll race. Sure it won’t be the fastest in the world but it will be damn fun and still good.

Shift-S3ctor

If you went 222mph in Abilene, you would’ve still missed being top 10 of the weekend. Congrats to some of the fastest street cars in the world! 10th. @jordan.jackson515 223.21mph, 9th...

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[michael parris heuberger]

I’ve already purchased a Fueltech FT 600 and am going to wire the bike from scratch myself. Danny Anderson has tuned my bikes in the past and is onboard to help me with anything I need for tuning/dyno use.

Ninjatech Motorsports LLC | Colorado Springs CO

Ninjatech Motorsports LLC, Colorado Springs, Colorado. 598 likes · 3 talking about this · 28 were here. I’m the Ninja in Ninjatech. Its been brought to my attention that people think I just work on Kawa

www.facebook.com

Hopefully you will engage in conversation and/or answer my questions above.

Current state of the bike:
View attachment 1658452

View attachment 1658453

Does my cat have a good tuck? Haha =)
View attachment 1658454

View attachment 1658455

Hi. I have about 13,000.00 in the motor, $4600.00 in the clutch, trans $3000.00, turbo $20,000.00, bike body work shocks swing arm wheels brakes, tires about $19,000.00 cost of 1999 busa $2,500.00. MAXX ecu $2,100.00, safty suit boots gloves helmet back protector $3000.00. I still need a bit more. Frame short neck, weight reduction, move up swing pivet point $ 2,000.00. You can call me 508-496-3312.

 

[TonyM995]

I would think that is way too low for what you want. Take a look at Shane Stubbs LSR bike for an idea. I think a 2-6” arm would be enough but I wouldn’t bet my life on it. Seems like a sick build.

I think you’re right on the picture I posted and that is too low. Looking at the ECTA rules the Modified Production states stock wheelbase plus 10%. My calculations has that at 6” over stock for maximum wheelbase allowed for that class. Maybe I’ll still get a 4-8” arm and adjust to meet the rules at the event.

https://www.ectamile.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/2018-Motorcycle-Rules.pdf

Tuco I have a Unit 5 lowering triple clamp and look at the picture of me sitting on the bike above. The front was so low that I spun the tire on the three passes I made that night. First half of the night was roll racing and second half was drag racing. Again my local track is Bandimere which is an NHRA track but with all the street cars on test and tune I don’t think the prep is great. On my build sheet above I have M2 suspension listed.

When I lowered the rear a bit and didn’t slam the front so much I was able to go 9.90 @ 143 mph with 7,558 DA on the street.

I’m thinking I should buy the clutch next and learn to tune it and get proficient with the Fueltech.

Raised the front a bit and it hooked better on the street than it did at Bandimere:

 

[01smokes]

What is your goal for half mile and full mile?

 

[TonyM995]

As fast as possible while keeping the bike streetable. Since I don’t know what length swingarm to get. I’m thinking of ordering an M2 shock and sending him my forks to be lowered maybe 1.5” or 2” and getting a good clutch. Then see how fast I can go on motor at stock wheelbase.

It seems Hays has an updated convertible clutch but RJ at 1 Stop Speed, who I like to buy from, sells MTC. He said you can setup the Gen 2 clutch to work on the street. I have no clue what guys use for half and mile racing though. I want the clutch for the 1/4 and wish/hope it could be good enough for everything else.

After I learn the clutch and stand alone with the two step then I can continue into the next round of upgrades.

It’s always going to be a compromise for me because I want to be able to ride on the street a little bit and beat up on the local supercars. At the 1/4 track here they will do roll races the first half of the day and drag races the second half. We have some fast cars up here too and I’d like to compete with them.

Half of the fun for me is figuring out bike setup and the other half is riding and enjoying it. Anything I can learn from you and others along the way would be great.

I’m not sure how fast the bike will go on motor but after I’m turbo I’d like to be as much over 200 mph in the half mile as possible.

 

[01smokes]

As fast as possible while keeping the bike streetable. Since I don’t know what length swingarm to get. I’m thinking of ordering an M2 shock and sending him my forks to be lowered maybe 1.5” or 2” and getting a good clutch. Then see how fast I can go on motor at stock wheelbase.

It seems Hays has an updated convertible clutch but RJ at 1 Stop Speed, who I like to buy from, sells MTC. He said you can setup the Gen 2 clutch to work on the street. I have no clue what guys use for half and mile racing though. I want the clutch for the 1/4 and wish/hope it could be good enough for everything else.

After I learn the clutch and stand alone with the two step then I can continue into the next round of upgrades.

It’s always going to be a compromise for me because I want to be able to ride on the street a little bit and beat up on the local supercars. At the 1/4 track here they will do roll races the first half of the day and drag races the second half. We have some fast cars up here too and I’d like to compete with them.

Half of the fun for me is figuring out bike setup and the other half is riding and enjoying it. Anything I can learn from you and others along the way would be great.

I’m not sure how fast the bike will go on motor but after I’m turbo I’d like to be as much over 200 mph in the half mile as possible.

Just get a aftermarket triple tree and push your forks up. Run a strap when you can. Leave the forks alone after that IMO that's a huge part of tuning a bike to hook up. I wish I still had stock forks for that reason alone.
For lsr the stock clutch (aftermarket springs) will be just fine till you start making big power after that get a single stage lock up to hold the power. A MTC gen2 is not needed for lsr racing IMO

 

[01smokes]

My number one bit of advice is get as much seat time as you humanly can. And don't rush anything. You don't want to be the guy with a built engine and a turbo getting drug by stock motor nitrous bikes. Because it will happen if you rush your build.

 

[TonyM995]

@01smokes I have a Unit 5 top clamp so I’ll just leave the forks alone. If I use the strap it puts the front so low that I’ll spin the tire. Lowering the rear and not cinching the strap so much fixed this but I’m probably going to remove the strap. The rear doesn’t squat much so I’ll just order an M2 shock since my front end is plenty low. Marcus from M2 also said the forks are a huge part of getting the bike to hook.

I’ll buy the mtc/Hays for drag racing and just hope they will work for LSR.

I completely agree on seat time and that’s why I’m dropping the idea of a turbo for now to get the chassis setup. Hence this thread on chassis setup. I appreciate your help!

@TucoSalimonca I paid for the Fueltech but it hasn’t shipped yet so I’m just waiting patiently. My goal is to be a customer that vendors want to work with. So I’ve been studying how to make a harness with concentric twisting of wires, crimping, and protecting the wires from heat/abrasion. I’ll start a thread when it gets here but I’m going to take my time and do a good job with the install. I hope it ships soon though.

 

[TonyM995]

So I think my next steps are to get an M2 shock and choose a mtc or Hays Clutch. Plus get the Fueltech installed.

Then head south early next year to ride and see what I can do at stock motor/wheelbase.

 

[01smokes]

Next step is a tire that works. Leave the shock alone. Get a real tire under it and strap it down and give it hell.

 

[01smokes]

I have a stock shock and run absolutely stupid numbers. Numbers that are flat absurd. The stock shock is fine trust me on that.
I hate watching people spend unnecessary hard earned money to these damn snake charmers that promise you stuff.

 

[michael parris heuberger]

50K for a 600HP build... minimum ... using top quality parts .by the time alll the issues are ironed out and its 100 percent. the little stuff really adds up/ powder coating stuff/ and using the latest greatest G series garrett turbo or a ZONA rotor turbo the kit will likely be more than 10K. ALSO.. u might want a plus 6 street tail for that extended swingarm/ paint it/ and buy a 40 tooth rear sprocket/chain/ 19/20 tooth front sprocket.. little stuff, like i said. you might also want to do a HD output shaft and robinsons output shaft support plate. BUTTTT... a good set of experienced eyeballs and diagnosis skills are PRICELESS. the builder/tuner should be the same person. and he should be a GOOD person and honest and experienced. Or u might spend the rest of your life trying to diagnose something/ get alll those parts workin together, and have confidence in it being able to start every single time/ be reliable.

Hi. If you want more traction I did a Pensky rear with a titanium rear spring and I have a 6 to 12 over arm also a 1 Stop Speed upper and lower tree that has a 1 inch + offset with 2 inch inturnally lowered forks. I also raised the swingarm pivot point up 12mm's. Going is a ton of work and a lot of money as I work with the best DME DAS Powerhouse 1 Stop Speed Pro Bolt US and many more.

 

[TonyM995]

@michael parris heuberger what events are you doing next year? Maybe I’ll get to race you at one of them. How much power are you going to be making?

@01smokes I hear you and feel things should be implemented when they are holding you back. Ken Hill teaches this when it comes to riding techniques and because of him I’ve passed guys while riding a ninja 250 and they were on a 1000.

That said suspension is not snake oil and maybe it’s not holding me back but the stock spring is too stiff for my weight. I will be leaving the forks stock thanks to you and will hold off on the shock for now.

Ken Hill (motorcyclist) - Wikipedia

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