Sync Throttle Bodies at 7.5k

[busastrom]

Well, I am getting ready to do the 7500 mile service on my 08. It says you are supposed to sync the throttle bodies. As I look at the service manual, it appears you need some type of computer or handheld device to do this.

So I go into a dealership to ask them about this. They say you need a type of hand held device (can't remember the name of it now) and that it wasn't being sold. They said they only place you can do it is through them. (What a shocker).

My question to you all is whether it is needed at 7500 miles. I was thinking about doing it at 14500 mile service since I really didn't want to deal with the valve clearance anyway. Figured I would let them dealership do both of them at the same time.

Anyone see a problem letting the throttle body sync go another 7000 miles?

Thanks

 

[twotonevert]

If it is not running rough or hard to start, I wouldnt worry about it.

 

[ToXSicK RoCKeT]

Well i have not had to deal with it yet, But have heard that if your busa runs smooth, ie; No jerky throttle, Crisp throttle response, and your fuel milage is still consistent to what it normally is.......there's PROB. no need for it ??? BTW, if you do a search on "THROTTLE SYNC" i believe theres a ton of info on this subject

 

[busastrom]

Great,
Thanks all. The less time it spends in the dealers paws, the better.

 

[kwm works]

Scary when you can't trust the dealership to be loving with your machine !

 

[badbobdcop]

I did this once on a Honda ST1300. It isn't hard. You will need a shop manual and a few basic tools. The main thing you have to buy is a flow meter. There is one from an English company that I ordered that hooks up to all four starter valves/throttle bodies at the same time.
You adjust the bodies so that the flow, marked by a stainless gauge in each of four clear tubes is the same height. This tells you that each cylinder is flowing the same amount of air. The adjustment is easy. Each starter valve/throttle body has an adjustment screw to crack open a little valve to increase or decrease the air flow.
It is easier than it sounds. It really balances the flow only at idol. As you open the throttle the starter valves/throttle bodies are way out flowed by the actual opening of the throttle. Balancing the starter valves/throttle bodies isn't to be discounted as the bike spends a lot of time idling.
It is a good thing to learn to do. By the time you finish you feel that you really own and know the bike.

 

[roadthing]

I did this once on a Honda ST1300. It isn't hard. You will need a shop manual and a few basic tools. The main thing you have to buy is a flow meter. There is one from an English company that I ordered that hooks up to all four starter valves/throttle bodies at the same time.
You adjust the bodies so that the flow, marked by a stainless gauge in each of four clear tubes is the same height. This tells you that each cylinder is flowing the same amount of air. The adjustment is easy. Each starter valve/throttle body has an adjustment screw to crack open a little valve to increase or decrease the air flow.
It is easier than it sounds. It really balances the flow only at idol. As you open the throttle the starter valves/throttle bodies are way out flowed by the actual opening of the throttle. Balancing the starter valves/throttle bodies isn't to be discounted as the bike spends a lot of time idling.
It is a good thing to learn to do. By the time you finish you feel that you really own and know the bike.

Not so with the new 'Busas. You need a Suzuki tool PN: 09904-41010. This is the SDS kit (Suzuki Diagnostic System), and the software for it, PN: 99565-01010-012. You need to reset the Idle Speed Control motor, and you need to "Zero-out" the TPS after balancing the vacuum.

You CAN get your hands on an SDS, and the software. You can get a Suzuki auto shop (same scanner, different software) to get the SDS for you (@ $700.00), and then you can also have them order the software ($ ??) as well. It isn't always that easy, but if you know someone in the auto repair biz, you may have an easier time. If you get really helpful service or parts person, sometimes they can order it for you. The only problem is that certain part numbers get red-flagged when they are called up on the parts software. You just need a cooperative parts guy, or friend in the biz.

Don't get discouraged. If you want one, you'll get one. In my opinion, the effort is worth it, as you KNOW the job will be done right, and the hardware/software will pay for itself. If you take into consideration that the hardware is pretty versatile, and only the software changes between Suzuki car models and bike models, you may even make a nice little profit

 

[BIKE DUDE]

It seems a shame that so many people don't have a dealer that they trust 100%. The dealer I go to has great techs that have also become friends and will give me tips and advise when ever I might ask. If you spend a little time getting to know the guys that work there by buying a pizza or coffee or tipping the guy that works on your bike you might start to feel different about bring your bike there and not getting ripped off.

 

[Rapstar]

If it is not running rough or hard to start, I wouldnt worry about it.

I'm with you!

 

[Wag]

Yeah, the Gen II is a different animal. Gen I involved an $85 set of mercury stix and it paid for itself in one DIY synch job.

I haven't had any opportunity yet to see how it works on the Gen II but I'm very interested.

--Wag--

 

[jetsetter]

It would be nice if somebody could find a nice work around so the adjustment could be made without the software. It looks like the computer is in control of the balance to some degree (the software appears to be disabling this control), if that is the case, it only needs to be adjusted close enough for the computer to take over and bring it in the rest of the way. If that is not the case, there is probably a way to trick it electrically to make it do the same thing the software does.

I may be all wet on that, but I'll bet that there is a trick to getting a satisfactory adjustment done without $700 worth of software. This may be a fancy electronically controlled engine, but it is still an engine.