stipped oil drain plug

bobber

Registered
Changed the oil last week . and noticed when i tightened the oil bolt ,it felt weak at the last 1/4 turn. Im not one to over tighten oil pan or valve covers for this very reason. I have a gen I with 8800 miles. Ive dumped the oil at least 10 times, i only put about 1200 miles a yr on it. I noticed that I had a drip or about 20 drops over nite [caught it in a spray can lid to monitior ] The biggest problem of my error is I havent ever changed out the washer which probually helped with the thread reaming. I drained the oil last nite to put in another washer/drain plug if neceassary. The plug looked good but I could see A few loose threads inside the pan hole, I cleaned them out[about 3 half pieaces]. I installed the new washer with a little oil resistant[black label] permatex on the washer [both sides] making sure none got on the threads. I left it set over nite with no oil to allow a better outcome of the cure of permatex. So, my question is , Would a over size self tapping plug work? or a piggyback[ plug inside a plug}. other than pulling the pan as the last option. The plug from what I'm told is a 14mm and looks like to be a 1.25 thread pitch. the self tapper from autozone is a m14x 1.50 which is more of a course thread,they even make a 1.75 . I thought about tapping it,,but you have the shaveings to worry about,even with the self tapper,[but was told to use grease on the bolt to capture some of the shaveings. No where Ive looked carries a over size 14 x 1.25 One guy said you wanted the 1.50 to remove all the old threads/ my train of thought was to keep the same pitch aand go in a little wider and I would be less likely to either go in crooked or ream it out worse. What do you all reccomend and what experince in this..I still have some threads,,but I want to fix it,,hopefully without pulling the pan. And The dealers around here dont even know the factor plug size,,,Looks like a m14x1.25 but i dont know,,I have a m14 x1.50 self tapper and a piggyback m14x1.50 [bolt in bolt] but the outside head is somewhere around 22-24 mm inside O.D is M14x 1.50 on the piggyback,,,, Thanks fellas
 
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remove the pan and then tap it for the bigger/wider size bolt you already have on hand. then shavings should not be an issue.
 
Remove the pan and replace it! Unfortunately I did this in 2003. I don't think tapping it is an option since there is a sleeve the bolt screws in to. It extends upwards a half inch or so and has a slot in it for the oil to drain. The sleeve is not very thick so tapping it would weaken it imo.

Pulling the exhaust and the pan is too much for me just to through the old pan back on. Pay the $100+ and be done with it.
 
When I looked up in side the drain hole, you can see the sleeve. I heard a few other guys use the oversize piggyback,On sportbikes[but wasnt given a make or model and they were fine ]. ,So once its in there , you dont have to continue to take it out.But just back out the smaller inside bolt. That would be the only option thats feesable without pulling the pan. a Cycle shop owner says his bikes mostly harleys],they use just the oversize 14 and keep taking it out when you change the oil. But I think all bikes have different pans.But your right. you can look up inside and see the sleeve. That is one of my main concerns is wipeing the sleeve out or going crooked. Still dont know the factory pan bolt size , my guess is a M14x1.25 thread pitch. But my temp fix is holding,I dumped the oil and took it for a ride,But Its going to have to be replaced,and I just finished putting a header on,,after all that work,Its gonna be a nitemare to pull the pan,but its better than a motor. Still just lookingfor ideas from other riders that had the same problem,,One owner said it was a common problem on the busa, I just wished I'd wouldve changed out the crush washers. Plus the oversized anything doesnt have the magnet on the tip
 
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I had the same problem on my 2007 I did tap it the pan cracked ever so slightly could hardley see it. bite the bullet buy a pan
 
Thanks fellas
and I appreciate all the advice. I dont want to go cheap and payfor it dearly, The post that Ssgunny was aprciative. theres alot of quick fixes. But as mentioned,You can crack the pan. The over sized plug I was going to use but you have to take it out and as mentioned,Sooner or later,It will probually leak,I;d rather opt for the piggy back,,then you only take out the center,,But in gunnys post link ;they mentioned a M14x1.5 timesert,Looks good ,but dont know if the pan still has to come off...I just changed the oil and by Gods grace ,no leaks so far,So I will run it for at least 1500 miles and watch it closely,Golden child ,if you will, Please pm me a price on a genI pan,I'm weighing all options,,Ive got a little time to come to a solution,and I'm considering everyones input/knowledge and experience,thank you
 
Bobber, your drain plug threads are stripped, you have it halfassed jury rigged in the hole. If it vibrates loose and falls out you WILL CRASH! You will also most likely seize your engine when she runs out of oil. By the time the oil light comes on, it's to late!

Replace the pan and the plug! Be Smart!
 
i am in the same boat for the 1st time in 10yrs. fortunately, i caught the leak before it was too late. my oil pan and gasket arrives tomorrow and i hope this goes smooth.:whistle:
 
I know the feeling. I just put those headers on. And they were a pill to seat; and you gotta love those springs LOL. I split the work up into 2 days,,Bought new gaskets and torqued everything down to specs . If It had not have happened the day after the install. The timeing of it all : but by Gods grace , he allowed me to catch it. Ive heard from a few that this isnt new. I just cant help but not to think that not putting on new crush washers every time had everything to do with this. Live and learn. Golden child gave me a good price on a pan.
 
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