Slight thud when releasing clutch in 1st

[Kiwi Rider]

Why you sarcastic godam aussie... Yes, it is true, I'm a spoilt man. This is what happens when you don't bring children into this world.

Nice to see you have a sense of humour.

[Kiwi Rider]

you people have the worst luck. zero problems with my gen3 so far with about 2k miles on it, and only here and there is the quickshifter not smooth xD

As hayabusa riders, we make our own luck!

[Equanimous]

Further testing reveals it is definitely the clutch, so it seems the gen 3 (or least mine) has the BTL clunk when releasing the clutch in first. So be it.

[CBXRider]

Sometimes (most times) it’s nice to own an original even though it was the 8th year (K8?) and second to the last year of the first generation. I’ve had no issues whatsoever and I’m still rocking the original clutch. Mileage is approaching 85,000. Taking Kiwi’s advice when I shift into first I pull the clutch in and wait for 10 seconds or so and then snick it into gear. Smooth as buttah. Without this process especially when it’s cold it would thunk loudly.

[Equanimous]

Taking Kiwi’s advice when I shift into first I pull the clutch in and wait for 10 seconds or so and then snick it into gear. Smooth as buttah.

I tried this today - works a treat

[CBXRider]

Great. You ever been to Cunnamulla?

[dcnblues]

I didn't say overly tight. I said on the tighter side of spec. I noticed the shifter hitting the stand after I put on lower pegs and adjusted the shift lever down to accommodate. When you shift into first from neutral the shift lever "over travels" until it's in gear and it doesn't do this when shifting down from second into first. Only when shifting from neutral.

Yep. Bingo. That's what I wanted to make sure OP wasn't running into.

The tighter end of the spec is too tight for me. And wasn't there something with the Gen 1 about a mistake in the spec that was way too tight? It's been a while and I only vaguely remember.

And wtf? This post on the Forum talks about using the top and bottom runs added together for the distance measured. I'm sure I clearly remember the manual for the Gen 1 just using the top run, and have never heard of this method. It's really disturbing to find out so many things that I may have been doing wrong for decades. But this isn't correct is it?
How to adjust your chain

[CBXRider]

Yep. Bingo. That's what I wanted to make sure OP wasn't running into.

The tighter end of the spec is too tight for me. And wasn't there something with the Gen 1 about a mistake in the spec that was way too tight? It's been a while and I only vaguely remember.

And wtf? This post on the Forum talks about using the top and bottom runs added together for the distance measured. I'm sure I clearly remember the manual for the Gen 1 just using the top run, and have never heard of this method. It's really disturbing to find out so many things that I may have been doing wrong for decades. But this isn't correct is it?
How to adjust your chain

I’ve been adjusting drive chains since the 60s and firmly believe that most riders worry too much about it. Measuring exact distances with rulers or string or even lasers IME is a waste of time. All my chains and sprockets last for many many miles and all my tires wear evenly.

[phalse]

the purpose of adjusting chain slack is mostly so that it doesnt bind up the swingarm.

if you draw a straight line from the center of the front sprocket to center of rear axle, that line has a certain length. when the swingarm moves UP like when going over a big bump all the way up the full travel of the shock, draw that imaginary line again and youll see its longer

so, chain slack is supposed to be just enough to accomplish this travel, and anything else is a waste and generally unwanted.

ditto with slack in the cable in a cable clutch.

no big deal. =D

[Equanimous]

Great. You ever been to Cunnamulla?

Damn that place is remote, looks like the surface of Mars

[sixpack577]

the purpose of adjusting chain slack is mostly so that it doesnt bind up the swingarm.

if you draw a straight line from the center of the front sprocket to center of rear axle, that line has a certain length. when the swingarm moves UP like when going over a big bump all the way up the full travel of the shock, draw that imaginary line again and youll see its longer

so, chain slack is supposed to be just enough to accomplish this travel, and anything else is a waste and generally unwanted.

ditto with slack in the cable in a cable clutch.

no big deal. =D

This^
If the chain is too tight, even a perfectly set up rear suspension cannot travel it's full range of motion, and the front and rear suspension directly effect one another, so you can easily ruin the handling if the chain is too tight.
Modern aftermarket chains also have very little 'stretch' from using better materials, and usually only need little to no adjustment after a few hundred miles of sprocket teeth and chain roller wear.
After that, It's setting should not need adjusted between rear tire changes.
I've put a couple thousand miles on a 520 conversion on the '18 Gsxr1kR, with EK zzz chain and Vortex sprockets with an aluminum rear, and have still not needed to adjust the chain.
The suspension is also set up really well.