New Motor Lasted Less Than 1000 Feet!

turbojonny

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Had the motor assembled and pre primed (oil pump spun with a drill) by Everette Powersports. New rods, springs, valve job, tranny, etc., etc.
Started it, let it idle a bit, eased it up to 2500 rpm, back to idle. Crisp as hel%. First super easy ride up and down the block I give it maybe 20% throttle to keep it rolling up a slight incline and I hear a bang and it immediately runs like S, like it's on 3 cylinders.
My guess is they didn't check the cam chain tension after they hand spun it, which they should do. Hope I'm wrong, but I don't think I am.
I'll keep you all posted.
 
I'm trying to keep the steam from blowing iut my ears, just in case it turns iut to be somethinh I did with a wire/sensor/line, but I can't imagine any other scenario but mechanical.
 
If you put it in neutral on a stand and turn the rear tire in gear - do you hear anything?
Or is it locked up and you can't move anything?
 
When I had my Busa the shop had to reinstall cam chain (it was off a tooth) To the best guess they bound up the cam somehow putting it back together and less then a mile down the road it snapped.
 
Still runs, just really shitt%. Damage is done. Im guessing mildly bent valves, gouged pistons...or a sensor that happend to short at just the wrong time.
I called the dealership and they said they'd fix whatever it is and take responsibility if it is their doing. Hard to fake that its my fault if it's a cam chain. We'll see. Currsntly sick and trying to muster up the energy to trailer it up and take it back. I sure wish RCC or Knecum were on this side of the country.
 
At the shop (dealership) now. I'm waiting for the quick inspection results. So far a bit of oil in the intake and they agree the symptoms lign up with cam timing.
 
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Number 2 has zero compression. Head is all good. Leak down is perfect. They're tearing back down. I have used Wossners in it, that looked perfect (brand new) and brand new Woosner rings in an APE checked and freshly honed cylinder. They've already said "the parts were parts YOU bought". To be continued. The mechanic inspected all parts prior to assembly.
 
I'm afraid it is VERY bad...like motor out of trame and top end dissassemble and new cylinder, piston or ?.
Sorry, I wasn't doing a good job at communicating this. The shop is who did the troubleshooting today. They determined (and I watched) that #2 has full blow by. No compression at all. All valves are good, as was the cam timing. Maybe a split block or ?. Block was in spec and freshly honed (APE checked it), rings were new, pistons used but they were mine and were fine when I tore it down (like brand new fine).
What I don't want to have happen is some kind of gray area argument happen, like they were my parts, IF I find that they missed something. That being said, I can't imagine what they could have missed to cause this. #2 failed at about 2000 rpm at maybe 1/4 throttle. Its not like I was hot lapping it.

Anybody know about any likely causes to look for? I can't imagine that even doing something like not gapping the rings would do this?
 
Leakdown is fine, but zero compression. It has to be one or a combo of a bad/cracked cylinder or failed nickasil, bad rings, broken piston, or some kind of sudden onset head gasket failure that didn't have any water or oil leakage issues. I can't think of any other way all the air could get out of #2.
 
Oh, leakdown wasn't literally 100%, I forget the exact number, but I think it was 96%. It was consistent across all 4.

If they didn't end gap rings coyld this happen? I'm grasping at straws here, but something just isn't adding up. Low rpm and no load seems like a weird place to have a massive failure like this.
 
An air compressor can help you find (not fix!) the problem in a hurry. I have a set of fittings that screw into the spark plug holes and attach an air line. With the Cylinder at TDC and a firm hand on a wrench on the Crank to stop it from spinning. You can then verify where the air is going. If its a piston you would hear air rushing out the breather, an exhaust valve at the tail pipe, an intake valve the throttle bodies etc. You may be beyond this from what I am reading though.
 
Well i hate to tell you, but if you supplied the parts you are going to end up in a he sad she said situation.

Leakdown is good but No compression,, Im quite sure that's not possible.

At any rate it needs to be torn down, and everything inspected, and measured to see where the problem is.

But dealing with the shop that assembled it, they are going to have a one sided story,, Not my Fault. Better open your wallet.

And if you want them to warranty it, let them supply the parts. But it seams they might not be qualified for the build at all
 
Well i hate to tell you, but if you supplied the parts you are going to end up in a he sad she said situation.

Leakdown is good but No compression,, Im quite sure that's not possible.

At any rate it needs to be torn down, and everything inspected, and measured to see where the problem is.

But dealing with the shop that assembled it, they are going to have a one sided story,, Not my Fault. Better open your wallet.

And if you want them to warranty it, let them supply the parts. But it seams they might not be qualified for the build at all

This. I think you are about to pay an expensive lesson. I would not use the same shop though.
 
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