Need help painting plastics

[thrasherfox]

Ok, I have in my possession most of the body work I need (still missing a tank, anyone want to give me a good deal on a tank?)

I only have to do minor plastic repair.

One problem I need help with. The right and left fairings that have the Kanji. How do I get the Kanji off the plastics?

Is there a chemical I can use? Has anyone done this before with success?


Any recommendations on the type of paint to use? I have never painted anything in my life (using an air sprayer).

Am I supposed to mix the paint in a big tub so it is all the same color and fill the sprayer as needed?

I purchased one of the gravity fed sprayers.

I was told by a friend of mine who has one that he swears by it.

Aside from input here on the board, any online resources? Any books anyone can recommend?

Thanks all

 

[bronc3]

Heat will help the decals peel off. Decal remover is available, with the best probably available at an auto paint store. PB makes some that is labeled just like PB Blaster. The decal remover will get rid of the glue residue.



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[Churchkey]

Most of the work in a paint job is the prep. Sanding, priming, sanding some more taping off etc.

You need a good air pressure regulator & good air line filter.

If your using a base coat - clear coat system & a gravity feed gun you don't need a big tub of paint. A pint of color should give you two coats if your doing all 12 pieces. Once you add the thinner & hardner you will have a quart of mixed color. Just lay the color on so it covers, it does not have to be real wet. The wetter you can lay the clear on the less sanding & buffing you will need to do for a glass finish.

I suggest that you try your skills on a piece of non vital material. If you don't have any metal scrap around try stopping at a body shop & score an old bent fender or hood from the scrap pile or dumpster to practice on.

Good luck with your project.

 

[NearDeath]

decal removerer works, but I think it works better after you have already peeled off what you could...

I have never tried this on plastics, so beware... I used paint stripper on my alternator cover to get hte paint off and it WIPED off the alternator cover in 15 minutes with NO scrubbing at all... I am sure you could find something similar for plastic, that would damn near strip everything...

CLoud

 

[BATTMAN]

You can take the decals off with water and a blow dryer. Make sure you scuff the old paint or the new paint won't stick. Also use good primer

 

[BulletTrain]

Ok, I have in my possession most of the body work I need (still missing a tank, anyone want to give me a good deal on a tank?)

I only have to do minor plastic repair.

One problem I need help with. The right and left fairings that have the Kanji. How do I get the Kanji off the plastics?

Is there a chemical I can use? Has anyone done this before with success?


Any recommendations on the type of paint to use? I have never painted anything in my life (using an air sprayer).

Am I supposed to mix the paint in a big tub so it is all the same color and fill the sprayer as needed?

I purchased one of the gravity fed sprayers.

I was told by a friend of mine who has one that he swears by it.

Aside from input here on the board, any online resources? Any books anyone can recommend?

Thanks all

Here's a few tips...

First of all, if you need to do ANY type of actual plastic "repair", get some Plastex. Great stuff! Go to www.plastex.ca. I bought some and repaired the busted ZX-10R tail section from Diablo. I messed with the repair and it seemed every bit as strong as the surrounding material.

As for removing the Kanji... Dude, go to your local paint & body store and ask for a "pinstripe eraser tool". It's a rubber wheel looking thing that chucks into a drill or whatever and you use it to literally erase decals without harming the paint. Once you've erased the decals you will want to clean the area with some good grease/wax remover to make sure ALL residue is gone before you do any sanding. But yeah, the eraser tool is the best and usually the quickest way to remove decals. When you figure in the time and effort usually required to remove some of the stubborn residue some of those factory decals leave behind, the cost of the eraser tool is worth it. Here's an example of what I'm talking about... Foreign site (came up first in the Google search) but it has a picture of the tool.

Pinstripe Eraser...<~~

As for paint recommendations, it depends on what color you're going with. If it's a solid, non-metallic color I'd say go with a single stage urethane paint without a clearcoat if this is your first paint job. Less steps and less to fug up, just to be blunt.

If it's metallic I'd definitely go base/clear urethane and maybe try to find a buddy that has sprayed before to help you get going. A metallic job can really be assed up if the base isn't sprayed evenly and consistently.

And yes, it's usually best to mix all of the paint that you plan to use in one big container so it will all match. However, don't reduce and/or add catalyst to ALL of it unless you intend to use it all in one session. If you reduce and catalyze it all and then have some left over it will be hard in the can next time you open it. If I have more than one container of paint (say two pints, or two quarts) I mix both containers into one big container (gallon can in those cases) and then from there I pour it into a measuring/mixing cup and reduce/catalyze it in there. That way if I have any left over when I'm done sprayin' I can keep it sealed up and use it for touch-up later on.

I like gravity feed guns better than siphon feed guns too. I agree with your buddy on that. I like SATA and IWATA brand gravity guns.



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Reason for Edit: None given...|1127907663 -->

 

[thrasherfox]

Ok, I have in my possession most of the body work I need (still missing a tank, anyone want to give me a good deal on a tank?)

I only have to do minor plastic repair.

One problem I need help with. The right and left fairings that have the Kanji. How do I get the Kanji off the plastics?

Is there a chemical I can use? Has anyone done this before with success?


Any recommendations on the type of paint to use? I have never painted anything in my life (using an air sprayer).

Am I supposed to mix the paint in a big tub so it is all the same color and fill the sprayer as needed?

I purchased one of the gravity fed sprayers.

I was told by a friend of mine who has one that he swears by it.

Aside from input here on the board, any online resources? Any books anyone can recommend?

Thanks all

Here's a few tips...

First of all, if you need to do ANY type of actual plastic "repair", get some Plastex. Great stuff! Go to www.plastex.ca. I bought some and repaired the busted ZX-10R tail section from Diablo. I messed with the repair and it seemed every bit as strong as the surrounding material.

As for removing the Kanji... Dude, go to your local paint & body store and ask for a "pinstripe eraser tool". It's a rubber wheel looking thing that chucks into a drill or whatever and you use it to literally erase decals without harming the paint. Once you've erased the decals you will want to clean the area with some good grease/wax remover to make sure ALL residue is gone before you do any sanding. But yeah, the eraser tool is the best and usually the quickest way to remove decals. When you figure in the time and effort usually required to remove some of the stubborn residue some of those factory decals leave behind, the cost of the eraser tool is worth it. Here's an example of what I'm talking about... Foreign site (came up first in the Google search) but it has a picture of the tool.

 

Pinstripe Eraser...<~~

As for paint recommendations, it depends on what color you're going with. If it's a solid, non-metallic color I'd say go with a single stage urethane paint without a clearcoat if this is your first paint job. Less steps and less to fug up, just to be blunt.

If it's metallic I'd definitely go base/clear urethane and maybe try to find a buddy that has sprayed before to help you get going. A metallic job can really be assed up if the base isn't sprayed evenly and consistently.

And yes, it's usually best to mix all of the paint that you plan to use in one big container so it will all match. However, don't reduce and/or add catalyst to ALL of it unless you intend to use it all in one session. If you reduce and catalyze it all and then have some left over it will be hard in the can next time you open it. If I have more than one container of paint (say two pints, or two quarts) I mix both containers into one big container (gallon can in those cases) and then from there I pour it into a measuring/mixing cup and reduce/catalyze it in there. That way if I have any left over when I'm done sprayin' I can keep it sealed up and use it for touch-up later on.

I like gravity feed guns better than siphon feed guns too. I agree with your buddy on that. I like SATA and IWATA brand gravity guns.

Very cool BT!! thanks for all the good info!!!!!

 

[NearDeath]

I am saving this thread after its done...

 

[BulletTrain]

Ok, I have in my possession most of the body work I need (still missing a tank, anyone want to give me a good deal on a tank?)

I only have to do minor plastic repair.

One problem I need help with. The right and left fairings that have the Kanji. How do I get the Kanji off the plastics?

Is there a chemical I can use? Has anyone done this before with success?


Any recommendations on the type of paint to use? I have never painted anything in my life (using an air sprayer).

Am I supposed to mix the paint in a big tub so it is all the same color and fill the sprayer as needed?

I purchased one of the gravity fed sprayers.

I was told by a friend of mine who has one that he swears by it.

Aside from input here on the board, any online resources? Any books anyone can recommend?

Thanks all

Here's a few tips...

First of all, if you need to do ANY type of actual plastic "repair", get some Plastex. Great stuff! Go to www.plastex.ca. I bought some and repaired the busted ZX-10R tail section from Diablo. I messed with the repair and it seemed every bit as strong as the surrounding material.

As for removing the Kanji... Dude, go to your local paint & body store and ask for a "pinstripe eraser tool". It's a rubber wheel looking thing that chucks into a drill or whatever and you use it to literally erase decals without harming the paint. Once you've erased the decals you will want to clean the area with some good grease/wax remover to make sure ALL residue is gone before you do any sanding. But yeah, the eraser tool is the best and usually the quickest way to remove decals. When you figure in the time and effort usually required to remove some of the stubborn residue some of those factory decals leave behind, the cost of the eraser tool is worth it. Here's an example of what I'm talking about... Foreign site (came up first in the Google search) but it has a picture of the tool.

Pinstripe Eraser...<~~

As for paint recommendations, it depends on what color you're going with. If it's a solid, non-metallic color I'd say go with a single stage urethane paint without a clearcoat if this is your first paint job. Less steps and less to fug up, just to be blunt.

If it's metallic I'd definitely go base/clear urethane and maybe try to find a buddy that has sprayed before to help you get going. A metallic job can really be assed up if the base isn't sprayed evenly and consistently.

And yes, it's usually best to mix all of the paint that you plan to use in one big container so it will all match. However, don't reduce and/or add catalyst to ALL of it unless you intend to use it all in one session. If you reduce and catalyze it all and then have some left over it will be hard in the can next time you open it. If I have more than one container of paint (say two pints, or two quarts) I mix both containers into one big container (gallon can in those cases) and then from there I pour it into a measuring/mixing cup and reduce/catalyze it in there. That way if I have any left over when I'm done sprayin' I can keep it sealed up and use it for touch-up later on.

I like gravity feed guns better than siphon feed guns too. I agree with your buddy on that. I like SATA and IWATA brand gravity guns.

Very cool BT!! thanks for all the good info!!!!!

No problem...