Minor Suspension Changes = Huge Difference

E Zurcher

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Been tweaking a bit. At 6'4" 250 lbs I knew the stock suspension settings were not ideal for me. I don't push my bike as hard as some of you through the twisties like some of you but I am starting to ride more aggressively through them and have noticed a little wallowing through the turns.

Step 12 was to add 1 click to the front rebound damping and set the preload at 5 turns out. Small change made a big difference. More stable and handles the bumps with more stability. Slow speed handling improved noticeably.

Step 2 was to crank down the rear spring about 1/4" and ad 1 click of rebound to the rear and one more to the front. I think this is where she needs to be for right now. I may add one more click of rebound to the rear to keep all things even. So final settings are two clicks in from stock on rebound damping front and rear. One turn in on preload for the front and 1/4 inch tighter than stock on the rear preload.

Still kinda soft for my weight but I'll try it there for a while and see how it goes.
 
What are the factory settings? I bought my bike used and don't know how much they've been messed with. Which my bike is a Gen 1. Don't know how much difference they had.
 
It's great to take the initiative to play with the suspension and note the improvements and in some cases the lack of.

From reading your OP I'm guessing you may have set your preload without taking any measurements? If so, you should take the time to properly set the sag. Adjusting the rear preload by 1/4 of an inch at the shock is a huge change. I'd bet money you now have your shock topped out with free sag. You should have between 5-10mm of free sag on the rear. If you do not have a minimum of 5mm of free sag, back off on the preload until you reach that minimum! :beerchug:
 
The factory settings cannot be adjusted to suit your weight ideally. Yes, you can improve slightly and get a slightly better ride, slightly better safety but to get it right, you should replace the internals on both the front and rear.

RaceTech has some very good quality products for this.

I did it on my Gen I and the difference in rideability was night and day.

--Wag--
 
Been tweaking a bit. At 6'4" 250 lbs I knew the stock suspension settings were not ideal for me. I don't push my bike as hard as some of you through the twisties like some of you but I am starting to ride more aggressively through them and have noticed a little wallowing through the turns.

Step 12 was to add 1 click to the front rebound damping and set the preload at 5 turns out. Small change made a big difference. More stable and handles the bumps with more stability. Slow speed handling improved noticeably.

Step 2 was to crank down the rear spring about 1/4" and ad 1 click of rebound to the rear and one more to the front. I think this is where she needs to be for right now. I may add one more click of rebound to the rear to keep all things even. So final settings are two clicks in from stock on rebound damping front and rear. One turn in on preload for the front and 1/4 inch tighter than stock on the rear preload.

Still kinda soft for my weight but I'll try it there for a while and see how it goes.

Im your same height and weight and agree with your above statements 100%, made a huge difference on mine as well

Another HUGE difference, even more so, was adding the Schnitz 1" raising link in the rear! AWESOME!!!
 
Tuf, Wag, I did do the sag and even without measuring, it drops so I know I have at least 5mm. I have not checked the front though. I am not a track rider so I was making small changes and testing them out. I kinda like the cushier ride for sport touring. Two questions though, there is still like a half inch of preload left in the rear shock and I have heard that many folks my size change out their rear springs for a stiffer one. Why would that be needed if there is so much more preload available? Is it to keep the shock in it's effective stroke? Also, I am nowhere near the limits on the damping adjustments. Compression is stock and rebound is only 2 clicks in from stock. Should they be cranked in to one click off closed? I think that would make the bike very harsh to ride. Remember I am not a track rider, just a sport tourer with a high speed run or two under my belt.
 
What are the factory settings? I bought my bike used and don't know how much they've been messed with. Which my bike is a Gen 1. Don't know how much difference they had.

I'm working with a gen 2 so I don't know the stock settings for your bike
 
I have about 1/4 inch of thread showing above the lockring. Looks like there is a lot more to go but it feels pretty good there.
 
You dont have to be some Super Moto GP Mechanic to set your suspension. Just do a youtube search on motorcycle sag adjustment get a buddy over to help and follow the instructions. I am also around the 250 mark suited up and the stock setting is for lil guys soaking wet at 155lbs. The stock setting was mooshy. My front springs could be stiffer but its a huge difference on the feel of the bike coming in and going out of turns.
 
The factory settings cannot be adjusted to suit your weight ideally. Yes, you can improve slightly and get a slightly better ride, slightly better safety but to get it right, you should replace the internals on both the front and rear.

RaceTech has some very good quality products for this.

I did it on my Gen I and the difference in rideability was night and day.

--Wag--

I understand what you are saying ot upgrade the compents of shocks and springs. But that just adds more issues because you have mess around with the settings on the new equipment with little to no reference points like you have with stock.

I know there was a thread about sag and settings. It was really good by Jinkster.

https://www.hayabusa.org/forum/maintenance-do-yourself/89876-jinkster-attacks-suspension.html

I am a big guy also like 265 and 6' 3" and my suspension was feeling a little soft so I have been trying changes. There is a big difference when you add a extra 50 pounds of my beer gut to the bike. :laugh:
 
I'm no expert on suspension and I don't ride on the track regularly. I do ride on the street and taking a corner like I'm on rails as opposed to sloshing around like I'm in a rowboat just makes me more comfortable and more safe. Even on a straight line, the bike is holding the road better and braking is better, cleaner and safer.

I had a suspension shop set mine up for me. If you do want to set it up yourself, though, the thread above (Jinkster's) has come highly recommended so go to it!

As I recall, tough, the Busa, for whatever reason, was built for a rider weighing about 165 pounds. :D

--Wag--
 
You dont have to be some Super Moto GP Mechanic to set your suspension. Just do a youtube search on motorcycle sag adjustment get a buddy over to help and follow the instructions. I am also around the 250 mark suited up and the stock setting is for lil guys soaking wet at 155lbs. The stock setting was mooshy. My front springs could be stiffer but its a huge difference on the feel of the bike coming in and going out of turns.

If you aren't busy tomorrow, how bout setting up my suspension. I'm no Moto GP Mechanic so I could use a guy with youtube experience to properly dial in my suspension! :beerchug:
 
Tuf, Wag, I did do the sag and even without measuring, it drops so I know I have at least 5mm. I have not checked the front though. I am not a track rider so I was making small changes and testing them out. I kinda like the cushier ride for sport touring. Two questions though, there is still like a half inch of preload left in the rear shock and I have heard that many folks my size change out their rear springs for a stiffer one. Why would that be needed if there is so much more preload available? Is it to keep the shock in it's effective stroke? Also, I am nowhere near the limits on the damping adjustments. Compression is stock and rebound is only 2 clicks in from stock. Should they be cranked in to one click off closed? I think that would make the bike very harsh to ride. Remember I am not a track rider, just a sport tourer with a high speed run or two under my belt.

Keep in mind your "Preload" has nothing to do with spring tension unless the fork or shock is fully extended. You want your fork/shock to function in it's most compliant range, the middle 1/3 of the stroke. By adding or reducing preload you are effectively adjusting your working range (Middle 1/3 of the stroke) up or down within the stroke.

Preload can also be used to effectively change the geometry as well.

Your stock suspension is pretty good stuff. It works well for most riders 200 pounds or less. The Gen II has stiffer fork springs (9.5) than the Gen I (8.5) and gives the bigger boys a bit more suspension grunt. I think the shock spring is the same?

I'm still not convinced you haven't topped out your shock. Put your bike on it's stand, with no rider onboard lift on the tail section, you should be able to lift the bike at least 5mm at the axle yet no more than 10mm. Have someone measure the distance directly over the axle (5-10mm)

Don't get discouraged when twiddling your knobs. It's the only way to learn. Just be sure to keep a written record of the factory settings and any adjustments you make.

Have fun! :cheerleader:
 
I used alot of the links that have been posted to set mine up as well as reading on suspension geometry to gain understanding. I'm 6'3" and 230lbs. It made a world of difference in my bike and inspired a lot of confidence. No more fat squishy feeling or rocking horse.

About 3 hours of homework and 45 minutes in the garage and I was golden. Plus there is a pride in the DIY part.

And nothing is wrong with a YouTube mechanic. You guys have saved me a few thousand bucks :)
 
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