I'm looking for some lighter wheels on a budget for my 08. I know the R1 wheels are about 6 pounds lighter but there are some compromises in the install. Looking at E-bay it looks like anything under $500 for a complete set with rotors and sprocket carrier would be a good deal. Does anybody have any other wheel suggestions or things to watch out for?
Lightweight Wheel Options?
- Thread starter Dennis
- Start date
Thanks. I've done all that already (Gen 2 so savings is more). I also have a lightweight battery. I'm going to remove the oil cooler and one front rotor/caliper. I'm painting the bike this winter so I'm installing a fiberglass low profile tank. Wheels are the only remaining "easy" weight loss mod left.
1busa
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after the obvious weight reduction mods the price goes substantially up!
BST rims or Aluminum rims like OZ
Aluminum racing swing arm
CF subframe
Last but not lest a Treadmill...... People think I’m being an ass but average adult is walking around with 8-10 lbs of water weight. So you can put on a plastic sweat suit and hit the treadmill for an hour and drop 5 pounds easy. Helluva lot cheaper than shelling out thousands for the same amount of weight in titanium or carbon fiber
BST rims or Aluminum rims like OZ
Aluminum racing swing arm
CF subframe
Last but not lest a Treadmill...... People think I’m being an ass but average adult is walking around with 8-10 lbs of water weight. So you can put on a plastic sweat suit and hit the treadmill for an hour and drop 5 pounds easy. Helluva lot cheaper than shelling out thousands for the same amount of weight in titanium or carbon fiber
michael parris heuberger
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Hi all. I am doing both Bike down to 425- 450 me done to 135-140 lbs. Will I can hope for this.
There is a set of R1 wheels with the custom front axle in the classifieds now. $450
All true, although I'm not going to drop water weight as I don't need to be dehydrated when racing. I am around 163 pounds but could stand to be 5 pounds lighter. I already have an aluminum Hardcore arm and an aluminum subframe on this bike. Removing the items I mention and wheels is probably where I'll stop .... for now!
That is the setup I'm considering. Thing is the rear brake doesn't work out and there are the cheesy rotor spacers on the front. I'm hoping to come up with something a little more refined but still light weight. Maybe a used set of aftermarket wheels will come along. I thought I saw an aftermarket wheel that was fairly low cost new awhile back but don't remember the details.
Some of that is over the top, some really expensive for the gain. If a guy was going to these extremes you should remove the kick stand and bracket for a free savings.
mark3evo
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my gen2 shed = 48.8 lbs
oh and i've lost another 20lbs by diet and that's free horsepower
akra 4:1 carbon and downpipes = -33 lbs
removed stock steering damper bike dont need it =- 3lbs
fitted Carbon wheels Rotobox boost lightest available = -11 lbs
brembo calipers = - 0.5 lbs
titanium caliper bolts = - 0.3 lbs
ohlins ttx36 rear shock = 1 lbs
2010 model is 573 lbs now down to 524.2 lbs
oh and i've lost another 20lbs by diet and that's free horsepower
akra 4:1 carbon and downpipes = -33 lbs
removed stock steering damper bike dont need it =- 3lbs
fitted Carbon wheels Rotobox boost lightest available = -11 lbs
brembo calipers = - 0.5 lbs
titanium caliper bolts = - 0.3 lbs
ohlins ttx36 rear shock = 1 lbs
2010 model is 573 lbs now down to 524.2 lbs
ROADTOAD1340
Registered
It really is up to the individual how much weight reduction they are aiming for and therefore how far they go $$ , and yes , most quality light weight components are unfortunately expensive . After all the obvious stuff is replaced , wheels , pipe etc , and a lot of small components , you can still keep going , but seldom is it ever going to value $ to weight . In my particular case , I wanted to individualize my bike also , after I got all the handling / weight mods ticked off , I invested in lighter weight but expensive savings , these include not only manufactured pieces , but large diameter ti suspension links , seat bolts etc , often custom machined by an old mate where possible to keep $ down . None of this was a massive gain by itself , but when everything is eventually tallied together , I hope to have a significant weight saving . I am yet to weigh the L2 , but it will happen . The L2 has every fastener except 2 rear engine long bolts and swingarm axle , all swapped out for titanium , and some race hex aluminum fasteners such engine covers , radiator and oil cooler . This bikes weight loss developement has been over years since late 2013 when bike was first purchased . I haven't junked things like the horn etc , because it is a street ridden bike operating in cop / defecting environment , but certainly did all that in the old days on GSXR's . Some people like to scout around for the lowest weight components to $ , and that's okay , but some also just get what they want for performance and individuality , and the cost , even when on a careful budget , comes second to your obsessed desires for your bike . Good luck with your mods .
My bikes are already fairly light. The slow bike that I just bought R1 wheels for was at 500 pounds and should be about 465 by this spring. The fast bike is already 463 pounds and it will drop to about 455 this winter. Hopefully the R1 wheels work out ok, my biggest concern is the "spacers" for the brake rotor and the possibility of the rotor not being true.
ROADTOAD1340
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Yeah dig dollars for sure... , but everywhere you now look where those little jewels are fitted ... such nicely detailed components !
Is titanium stronger than steel? Also does it interact with ferrous metals (rust)?
Busashot
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For it's size to weight ratio it is but overall not really. And that is comparing the best grade titanium to most common steel. But it is definitely more than strong enough for most applications such as keeping a motorcycle case together. No problem there but it does also have better protection from the environment as far as corrosion resistance. As with any different metal to metal contact, you should always use anti-seize with it IMHO
ROADTOAD1340
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I was told the best ti grade , roughly equivalent to 8.8 steel . When you really need absolute strength , I would go 12.9 steel , but as Busashot states , the ti should be fine for most motorcycle applications , and certainly agree about anti-seize .
I would expect them to be a lot closer than that. Even stamped washers should be better than that from the same batch. I don't know what the spec is but I'll be looking for .002 TIR on the rotor when I set these wheels up.
ROADTOAD1340
Registered
Just weighed the L2 at a sand and metal joint across the road from my mechanics . I got 220kg with 12 liters of ULP 98 BP stand alone . With me on it with casual cruising clothing and boots , lid , gloves and waist bag , 340kg , which would seem about right . 220kg equal 485lb , so about what I thought my full equipped and cop inspection safe street bike would be . It was weighed on the entry weigh ramp , and the fellow who give me the okay rides a Suzuki , came over to make sure everything was good to go . Pretty happy really . 
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