The Gen I's would over heat in heavy traffic, but the Gen II has a beefed up cooling system. I've never heard of anyone complaining about the Gen II.
Hayabusa overheating?
- Thread starter arctic954
- Start date
mrriverajr
Registered
I must let you all know I did the recommended burping and engine ice and my needle does not move past half. I used to overheat before at 60 degree Outside air temp now its 90 and its perfect. Thanks everyone!!!
Fan Switch override installed, T-stat, lower temp fan switch and engine ice all complete
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Tim Clancy
Registered
Be carefull using engine ice, i did and it masked a head gasket problem for a good while.. Now im paying the price..
My Busa turbo started doing the exact thing today after I did a coolant change. What was the outcome on fixing the problem. Also the Suzuki dealership in SA can not tell me at what temp does the fan switch start up the fan. I would like to get a switch that starts up the fan at a lower temp but if they cant even tell me the specs on a standard I am not sure how and where to find the lower switch.
BENCH401
Registered
If you changed coolant and the problem started, I would suggest burping your system
Whats the best way to do this, I have seen some say tilt the bike on it's side?
^ drawing from a somewhat clouded memory, i sat on the bike with the rad cap off, fired her up and waited 2-3 minutes at idle for warm up, and swayed the bike slowly left to right for a couple of minutes. i read that years ago from this site and it worked fine for me.
RiaanBarnard
Registered
How do you get rid of all the air in the system (Burp)???
Mine 06 busa overheated in traffic.. Actually just idling for a long time did too. Road riding mm below centre mark. Removed radiator, straightened every individual fin from water blasting and road gunk bugs and 60,000k of use. Replaced coolant bled system heat wrapped the exhaust in lagging hooked up a fan thermo switch bypass only to discover the fan fuse blown lol replaced that and no more overheaties hahaha at all. The lagging helps reduce the radiant heat right next to the radiator and as a result takes longer to reach operating temp, lowers the temp coming out the vents and is about 3mm from the centre line. In traffic still gets to the centre mark where the fan comes on, gets a smidgen warmer then drops below the mark about 1mm, off goes fan, goes up to the line and on it goes again over and over until moving again.
zul
Registered
After some experiments;
1. Thermostat removed
2.radiator serviced
3.changing all hoses
4. New fan switch fitted;
I finally found the culprit!....none of the above (causes my 2004 overheated, fan only kicked in after half...and stop even temperature still climbing...)
It was the RADIATOR CAP!!!...A silence not to expect at all!..
I bought a new cap with 1.3 psi cap(for a car)....and all back like a brand new busa!!!....
Tips; if you notice your spare water tank burp with bubles, slight more water when u stop the engines...it means...it is time to change your radiator cap. Simple..easy cheap....worth it!.
Now..45 minutes idling..no more than half readings on my temperature gauge.
1. Thermostat removed
2.radiator serviced
3.changing all hoses
4. New fan switch fitted;
I finally found the culprit!....none of the above (causes my 2004 overheated, fan only kicked in after half...and stop even temperature still climbing...)
It was the RADIATOR CAP!!!...A silence not to expect at all!..
I bought a new cap with 1.3 psi cap(for a car)....and all back like a brand new busa!!!....
Tips; if you notice your spare water tank burp with bubles, slight more water when u stop the engines...it means...it is time to change your radiator cap. Simple..easy cheap....worth it!.
Now..45 minutes idling..no more than half readings on my temperature gauge.
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