Gen 1 Upper fairing split repair opinions

202mphbusa

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My gen1 upper fairing has been cracked just under the headlight for years
Tried a couple epoxies with no luck

FiberGlass and resin?
Carbon Fiber and resin?
take the S^%ck and buy a plastic welding setup
Just replace it and get the bike painted?

rubbersidedown

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My gen1 upper fairing has been cracked just under the headlight for years
Tried a couple epoxies with no luck

FiberGlass and resin?
Carbon Fiber and resin?
take the S^%ck and buy a plastic welding setup
Just replace it and get the bike painted?
Some members will tell you about success with all those. Me,for years,have plastic welded. 'Course if you want perfect,then you have to paint.
I did not buy a kit. I use a small electric soldering iron. Its like when you put screens in the fairing holes for an' appearance mod. I never even tried glue for that. I plastic weld like you are braising up a radiator...or welding sheet metal. Heat the surrounding area...add material as necessary.Done from the back of course.
Qwik and easy...EBay. Just checked...OEM for a hundred bucks,includes shipping. Might be lucky and find your color. Thats the route I would take. less headache.
Rubb.

Berlin Germany

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@202mphbusa

at first - all the painted fairings / plastics at the busa are made of "ABS"
and this plastic can´t neither be glued by standard glues nor by GRP.

but,
and it sounds really absurd in this context,
i have had very good experiences with hoof care (hoof glue) for cows from the vet.
the glue consists of 2 components - a very fine powder and a clear liquid, also called an activator
its name here in germany is Technovit 6091 hoof care.
i guess your vets should have similar stuff for cows with broken / splitted hoofs.
by luck i found the stuff at amazon - Technovit 4000 Med Kit: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

or
what is very easy to work with is "Loctite 3090"
it comes from a double syringe and is mixed together in an attached mixing channel to form the actual glue.
this glue can even be used upside down / over your head and really sticks like hell the abs-plastic (and your fingers too - attention!).
but the 3090 is very expensive.

but at the end the welding could be the easiest way for you if you are a good plastic welder
the ABS welding sticks should be sold in any craftsman´s store / ware house.

Mr Brown

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Berlin Germany

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@Berlin Germany you never cease to amaze.
"Cow Glue" eh....:thumbsup::laugh:
Rubb.

yes rubb

i definitely was amazed too when i got this hint years ago
but
that cow glue (technovit 6091) really works and that permanent and very fine.

my hint for preparation and processing :
- you have to "close" the seam´s backside with a thin painters tape to prevent that the powder can "fall" trough.
- you will get the best results with both adhesives (technovit & loctite) if you bevel the edges of the crack / breaking edge so that a ~ 2/3 depth seam is produced that has the shape of a Y.
see pic (no tape yet on the backside)
007detail.jpg


cut made with such a cutter knife


51hwITZlLDL._AC_SL1417_.jpg


and

when the glue has hardened, for best stability you should also cut the other (back) side of the seam in a V-shape .
010detail.jpg

a rear side - not cut yet.

you also can use a "Dremel" (instead of cutter) but then you have to pay big attention not to abrase to much / too deep.

more pics of the yamaha fj 1200 speedo mask / cover are shown here (beg your pardon - in german)
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yes rubb

i definitely was amazed too when i got this hint years ago
but
that cow glue (technovit 6091) really works and that permanent and very fine.

my hint for preparation and processing :
- you have to "close" the seam´s backside with a thin painters tape to prevent that the powder can "fall" trough.
- you will get the best results with both adhesives (technovit & loctite) if you bevel the edges of the crack / breaking edge so that a ~ 2/3 depth seam is produced that has the shape of a Y.
see pic (no tape yet on the backside)
View attachment 1625566

cut made with such a cutter knife


View attachment 1625567

and

when the glue has hardened, for best stability you should also cut the other (back) side of the seam in a V-shape .
View attachment 1625568
a rear side - not cut yet.

you also can use a "Dremel" (instead of cutter) but then you have to pay big attention not to abrase to much / too deep.

more pics of the yamaha fj 1200 speedo mask / cover are shown here (beg your pardon - in german)
HI And if it is a crack that does not go to the end of the panel drill a hole at the end of the crack or it can just keep cracking.
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yes @michael parris heuberger

good hint for an emergency fix - but the dia of the drilled hole should be only around 3-4 mm - not more.

but after a (shorter) while the crack should be fixed (glued). :)
Hi. That is correct you want the crack to end into the drilled hole. I do not use glue I always plastic weld. V out the crack both sides then plastic weld,sand and use a plastic filler sand and paint.

bigoltool

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Off topic slightly but kinda relevant I suppose. I hit a huge raccoon (dead meat!) the other day with my car and the little bastard destroyed the bumper cover and fender liner on my car. Body shops are all booked up until first part of next year and I am thinking of Plastic welding this back together to get me through the winter. Any thoughts on Good plastic welders? Looked at the HF and other el cheapo ones but everyone seems to be leaning towards this one. Any input is appreciated.
coon damage..JPG
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