Gen 1 clutch mod. The Workshop vs Dellboy...
- Thread starter kml
- Start date
Berlin Germany
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men?
that YT is talking nonsense
the so called "torque limiter" is NONE.
the gen1&2 busa has no limiter in reality - the limiter is only simulated.
(what about at gen3 i have no clue but i would suppose its clutch is similary built to the older one)
watch the first(?) minute (or so) and look how the two pieces really work.
the smaller piece is def. fixed at the ("in") shaft by the nut and the "bigger" one, with the 6 studs is loose so it moves in direction to the gearbox
what - tadaaa - compresses the springs while acceleration happens - it is logical while watching the docks and their ramp degrees.
they are built to pull the stud-holding piece in but never to push out
pushing would loosen the force at the clutch what then a real t.-limiter would be.
but contrary - the stud-holder is pulled in the direction / to the side of the gearbox.
the torque limiting ("anti hopping" called) function of the clutch-system is only "given" by the springs and their so named "weakness"
because if the rear wheel turns the motor (while hard shifting down at hogh rpm)
the springs are not strong enough to keep the clutch in a not-slipping-function - that way the clutch starts to "slip" and by this slipping the t.-l. is only simulated.
(a clutch with a real t.-l. is completely built in an other way.)
so if you assemble the silver "ring" at this pic
to avoid the kangeroo-effect in 1st gear
this ring takes place where the stud-holder usually could move in and disables that way the possible plus of clutch compression while acc.
and this causes the need of stronger springs into the clutch
for the moment of starting in 1st gear.
(plus the supporter bracket across the sleeve at gen1)
the YT in the movie above shows the function well but he ignored what is fastened and what is loose.
basta.
________________________________________
and if you realy want a real anti-hopping system rip out the entire old clutch and get a new, completely differing one for around 500-800 €
(that includes other basket / hub / "inlays" / plates)
________________________________________
stronger springs at a standard, nice working, busa are - in general - not necessary.
_________________________________________
if the clutch slips while shifting / accelerating
measure the thickness of the entire pack of driving and driven plates.
this must ! be at the abs. minimum of 50.5 mm
if less the clutch slips what ever you try with springs or else.
then you can, to save money
, put in one (1) thicker driven and one (1) thicker drive plate to reach the 50.5mm again, respectively to make it bigger than 50.5 mm.
described here at my homepage
_________________________________________
kangeroo-effect #2
if you have the kangeroo-effect have a look at the driving / steel plates.
2.a if they have black marks as big as your smallest finger nail all over theis surface,
2.b it they are bent only a lill bit
replace them and the kangeroo is history.
that YT is talking nonsense
the so called "torque limiter" is NONE.
the gen1&2 busa has no limiter in reality - the limiter is only simulated.
(what about at gen3 i have no clue but i would suppose its clutch is similary built to the older one)
watch the first(?) minute (or so) and look how the two pieces really work.
the smaller piece is def. fixed at the ("in") shaft by the nut and the "bigger" one, with the 6 studs is loose so it moves in direction to the gearbox
what - tadaaa - compresses the springs while acceleration happens - it is logical while watching the docks and their ramp degrees.
they are built to pull the stud-holding piece in but never to push out
pushing would loosen the force at the clutch what then a real t.-limiter would be.
but contrary - the stud-holder is pulled in the direction / to the side of the gearbox.
the torque limiting ("anti hopping" called) function of the clutch-system is only "given" by the springs and their so named "weakness"
because if the rear wheel turns the motor (while hard shifting down at hogh rpm)
the springs are not strong enough to keep the clutch in a not-slipping-function - that way the clutch starts to "slip" and by this slipping the t.-l. is only simulated.
(a clutch with a real t.-l. is completely built in an other way.)
so if you assemble the silver "ring" at this pic
to avoid the kangeroo-effect in 1st gear
this ring takes place where the stud-holder usually could move in and disables that way the possible plus of clutch compression while acc.
and this causes the need of stronger springs into the clutch
for the moment of starting in 1st gear.
(plus the supporter bracket across the sleeve at gen1)
the YT in the movie above shows the function well but he ignored what is fastened and what is loose.
basta.
________________________________________
and if you realy want a real anti-hopping system rip out the entire old clutch and get a new, completely differing one for around 500-800 €
(that includes other basket / hub / "inlays" / plates)
________________________________________
stronger springs at a standard, nice working, busa are - in general - not necessary.
_________________________________________
if the clutch slips while shifting / accelerating
measure the thickness of the entire pack of driving and driven plates.
this must ! be at the abs. minimum of 50.5 mm
if less the clutch slips what ever you try with springs or else.
then you can, to save money
, put in one (1) thicker driven and one (1) thicker drive plate to reach the 50.5mm again, respectively to make it bigger than 50.5 mm.described here at my homepage
_________________________________________
kangeroo-effect #2
if you have the kangeroo-effect have a look at the driving / steel plates.
2.a if they have black marks as big as your smallest finger nail all over theis surface,
2.b it they are bent only a lill bit
replace them and the kangeroo is history.
SSGT_B
Registered
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