ECU Flashing

Ron223

Ron223

Registered
I'm looking to better understand ECU Flashing. Its new to me. I get that it actually reflashing the bikes ECU, but is this something I can do myself? As I'm fairly tech and mechanical savvy, I know I don't nearly enough to create my own maps, etc. Does the products come set programmed for your application? And Dora's this eliminate the need for a PC once I remove my stock pipes? Anything to help better understand the process, installation, pros and cons would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
 
You could change a few parameters yourself....like rev limit, hard cut,....etc. But the benefit comes in mapping without an additional part, ..ie PC3.

You would need a harness to attach to the ECU and a flash box to hook to your computer to work with. They do not come with any programming for your bike.

There are some videos from SmithaBusa you can search out that show some of the basics.
 
It is fairly straightforward, once everything is set up. Smithabusa's walk throughs will take care of 99% of what you need. Occasionally, something weird will pop up, and he is more than willing to assist you through it.

You have to create a BIN file, or have a map done on a dyno. There are some files on Smith's website, and around the net.

I don't mess with the fueling or timing maps, but I have played with a lot of the rest of them
 
You can buy Ecu editor from boostbysmith.com and make several improvements without the need of a dyno.
Remove 1st through 4th gear timing restrictions, top speed limiter, turn fans on sooner, adjust secondary throttle plate opening, and remove the fuel soft cut.
You will notice a much more responsive bike.
You can also adjust air/fuel and ignition, but you would need to be on a dyno to do that correctly.
Or, you can also buy the Woolrich Racing datalogger and wideband O2 sensor. It logs engine data to a sim card while you ride. Then you can correctly adjust and improve the air/fuel and ignition, that is even more efficiant than dyno tuning. As the bike is in real world riding conditions.
You also can remove the restrcitions in ecu ed and use a power commander for the air/fuel maps. You can download a base map to the power commander, or have the bike dyno tuned with it.
Ecu ed makes changes to the ecu that remain until you change them. A Power Commander just piggy backs on, once it's removed, so are it's settings from the bike's ecu.
You also won't need a power commander for slipon mufflers, and the bike will still run safely with a full exhaust. Although dyno tuning or datalogging is needed for the bike to run at it's best.
A full exhaust is beneficial, as when tuned you'll get much better results, and get rid of the catalytic convertor(that thing will cook your feet). Slipon mufflers are only good for looks and sound, and maybe a couple hp that you'll never feel.
However, the stock mufflers weigh around 17lbs each, and most aftermarket are around 2 or 3 lbs. You can really feel the weight loss when flicking the bike side to side through curves.
Greg Smith at boostbysmith is excellent to deal with, and Justin at Woolrich has the same reputation.
You can't go wrong with them.:beerchug:
 
Thanks for all the info! I'll check with those mentioned to learn more. So, which method will be most effective and user friendly in unlocking the Busamonster within?
 
Ron223 said:
Thanks for all the info! I'll check with those mentioned to learn more. So, which method will be most effective and user friendly in unlocking the Busamonster within?
Click to expand...

That depends. What are the dyno tuners in your area comfortable with? The closest ECU Dyno tuner to where I live is about 150miles away, but Power Commander tuners are a dime a dozen around here.
 
For clarity, I can flash the ECU to unlock all the restrictions and should be able to be walked through it by the company I buy the stuff from but if I want to remap the air/fuel I should leave that to a pro using either PC dyno or auto tuned or dyno with an ECU flashing?

I'd like to make some of the changes Sixpack said, is that something the average joe can do walked through ECU flashing? Or is that also best left to a professional?
 
It can be confusing the first time you set it up and do it. Once you are familiar with the basics, it's really easy though... :thumbsup:

When you are ready to do more, pipe, etc....find a REAL TUNER that actually knows what he's doing. Lots of dyno's and dyno owners, not many that actually KNOW what they are doing... :whistle:

The auto tuners DO NOT work like people think so don't waste your time...
 
Ron223 said:
For clarity, I can flash the ECU to unlock all the restrictions and should be able to be walked through it by the company I buy the stuff from but if I want to remap the air/fuel I should leave that to a pro using either PC dyno or auto tuned or dyno with an ECU flashing?

I'd like to make some of the changes Sixpack said, is that something the average joe can do walked through ECU flashing? Or is that also best left to a professional?
Click to expand...

YES to all of the above.

And for the record, Smithabusa and BoostbySmith are the same people and company. He also sells the woolrich boxes.

It sounds like you are wanting to do what I did. I used mine to bypass the limiters, set up an airshifter, etc.... Then I took it to a tuner to do the fuel and timing map
 
Ludicrous Speed said:
YES to all of the above.

And for the record, Smithabusa and BoostbySmith are the same people and company. He also sells the woolrich boxes.

It sounds like you are wanting to do what I did. I used mine to bypass the limiters, set up an airshifter, etc.... Then I took it to a tuner to do the fuel and timing map
Click to expand...

Great! Thanks!
 
Got-Busa? said:
It can be confusing the first time you set it up and do it. Once you are familiar with the basics, it's really easy though... :thumbsup:

When you are ready to do more, pipe, etc....find a REAL TUNER that actually knows what he's doing. Lots of dyno's and dyno owners, not many that actually KNOW what they are doing... :whistle:

The auto tuners DO NOT work like people think so don't waste your time...
Click to expand...

I have no problem With my autotune.
 
Ron223 said:
For clarity, I can flash the ECU to unlock all the restrictions and should be able to be walked through it by the company I buy the stuff from but if I want to remap the air/fuel I should leave that to a pro using either PC dyno or auto tuned or dyno with an ECU flashing?

I'd like to make some of the changes Sixpack said, is that something the average joe can do walked through ECU flashing? Or is that also best left to a professional?
Click to expand...

If you want to buy ecu editor, then yes. It's just a matter of clicking a few boxes.
If you buy a bench flasher you can remove the ecu and plug it in directly(there is no need to do this).
Otherwise you install a 2 wire jumper harness between the black ecu plug, and the black yosh plug(it stays on the bike and is nearly invisible unless you're looking for it), all are easily accessable under the driver's seat.
Both ends of the harness plug into empty locations on each plug. Very quick and easyto do, and directions clearly show you which wires go where.
Then, ecu editor plugs into the black yosh plug, and the white diagnostic plug. The other end to your computer or laptop.
Open a new file, click some boxes, wait about 4 minutes for it to flash, and done.
A much better bike, and for $200, ecu editor is the best bang for you're buck performance you can buy.
Cycle Connections is in Gaithersburg MD, and they are an ecu editor tuning shop.
I cannot comment on their tuner's ability, but hopefully someone here can. As Got-Busa said above, the tuner is the most important part in getting a good tune. It's also not about a peak hp number on paper, it's getting a smoother, better performing bike.
If you choose to get an ecu editor dyno tune anywhere, you do not need to buy ecu editor. You will only need the 2 wire jumper, which is $10 from boostbysmith. Depending on what the shop wants to charge for this, you may want to buy and install it yourself. As said, cheap, quick and easy.
Then they just plug in, tune, and that's it. No need to buy a Power Commander either for a shop that already tunes with ecu editor.
If you can't buy ecu editor or get your bike dyno tuned at the moment, I remove the restrictions and make the changes that don't require dyno tuning(I have a bench flasher)and I never touch an air/fuel or ignition map. I do them free for org members, just send me a paid return shipping label. I flash them the day I get them, and they go out the next day.
I've done 10 gen2 Busas in the last couple years, as well as my own and my B-King.
No pressure either, just an offer. And...I'm 'currently' not scamming folks and selling parts on ebay:laugh:

And unrelated
The white diagnostic plug that ecu editor plugs into is where you check for trouble codes(you can do this with or without ecu editor too).
Also very simple. Gen2 Busas are excellent bikes with few problems, but it's good to know where to start should any future problems ever arise. Check it out.
The service manual is free here too if you haven't found it yet.:beerchug:


https://www.hayabusa.org/forum/gene...-diagnose-fi-light-obtain-ecu-fault-code.html

https://www.hayabusa.org/forum/general-bike-related-topics/158939-service-manual.html
 
I wanted to let you know I have a brand new one still in the box and will take 200 shipped if you are interested. It is for the Gen 11 08 & up
 
sixpack577 said:
If you want to buy ecu editor, then yes. It's just a matter of clicking a few boxes.
If you buy a bench flasher you can remove the ecu and plug it in directly(there is no need to do this).
Otherwise you install a 2 wire jumper harness between the black ecu plug, and the black yosh plug(it stays on the bike and is nearly invisible unless you're looking for it), all are easily accessable under the driver's seat.
Both ends of the harness plug into empty locations on each plug. Very quick and easyto do, and directions clearly show you which wires go where.
Then, ecu editor plugs into the black yosh plug, and the white diagnostic plug. The other end to your computer or laptop.
Open a new file, click some boxes, wait about 4 minutes for it to flash, and done.
A much better bike, and for $200, ecu editor is the best bang for you're buck performance you can buy.
Cycle Connections is in Gaithersburg MD, and they are an ecu editor tuning shop.
I cannot comment on their tuner's ability, but hopefully someone here can. As Got-Busa said above, the tuner is the most important part in getting a good tune. It's also not about a peak hp number on paper, it's getting a smoother, better performing bike.
If you choose to get an ecu editor dyno tune anywhere, you do not need to buy ecu editor. You will only need the 2 wire jumper, which is $10 from boostbysmith. Depending on what the shop wants to charge for this, you may want to buy and install it yourself. As said, cheap, quick and easy.
Then they just plug in, tune, and that's it. No need to buy a Power Commander either for a shop that already tunes with ecu editor.
If you can't buy ecu editor or get your bike dyno tuned at the moment, I remove the restrictions and make the changes that don't require dyno tuning(I have a bench flasher)and I never touch an air/fuel or ignition map. I do them free for org members, just send me a paid return shipping label. I flash them the day I get them, and they go out the next day.
I've done 10 gen2 Busas in the last couple years, as well as my own and my B-King.
No pressure either, just an offer. And...I'm 'currently' not scamming folks and selling parts on ebay:laugh:

And unrelated
The white diagnostic plug that ecu editor plugs into is where you check for trouble codes(you can do this with or without ecu editor too).
Also very simple. Gen2 Busas are excellent bikes with few problems, but it's good to know where to start should any future problems ever arise. Check it out.
The service manual is free here too if you haven't found it yet.:beerchug:

https://www.hayabusa.org/forum/general-bike-related-topics/166911-how-diagnose-fi-light-obtain-ecu-fault-code.html

https://www.hayabusa.org/forum/general-bike-related-topics/158939-service-manual.html
Click to expand...

Thank so much for all your input and help! I may get back to you if I feel uncomfortable doing it myself. For now I'm just looking to unleash the Busamonster in its natural, unrestricted beauty. I'll have the mapping done when I can afford to put on the Brock 4-2-1 alien head. Until then you've pretty much said the basics of what I'm hoping to accomplish.
 
Got-Busa? said:
How are you tuning with it? Don't tell me you input the desired airfuel and just rode around... ???
Click to expand...

No. I actually started with my Brock map and made a couple of calls to dyno jet and told them how I ride and that I didn't want to be all out all the time but a good balance and I got the ideal range of a/f for my type of riding and set it as such. Ride for about an hour or so, went home look at the trims and accepted them. My fuel economy proves and thanks to my flash by powerhouse it rides like a beast. I will get a dyno tune after I have my head and cam package done and will probably have them makes some tweaks to target a/f if they think it needs to be but for now I have no complaints.
 
Lycan6 said:
No. I actually started with my Brock map and made a couple of calls to dyno jet and told them how I ride and that I didn't want to be all out all the time but a good balance and I got the ideal range of a/f for my type of riding and set it as such. Ride for about an hour or so, went home look at the trims and accepted them. My fuel economy proves and thanks to my flash by powerhouse it rides like a beast. I will get a dyno tune after I have my head and cam package done and will probably have them makes some tweaks to target a/f if they think it needs to be but for now I have no complaints.
Click to expand...

That's the difference,....you are starting with a map that is 99% where you need/want it to be. Most people that buy them think they can just plug it into a stock bike, make a bunch of changes and build a map from nothing. It doesn't work that way and most will blow/melt something before they get anywhere close to where the tune NEEDS to be... :beerchug:

Same thing with a major change like head/cams, you need to get it on a dyno. The map will be to far off to get ride/driveability correct...
 
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