Changing oil on Busa

tmf2004

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I just recently bought the Clymer Service manual to learn more about the bike and some diy's.. They show step by step for the oil change but is there anything else i need to do? My bike stand will here Wednesday to make the process easier..

Also, where can i buy the Filter and Mobil 1 10-40 oil from? Thanks guys

tmf2004

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Found some newer oil change pics from a member.. The fairings and oil filter seem challenging from the pics.. Anything else i should know..

I think I'm going with Mobil 1 4T and purolater or Suzuki OEM filter..

RussellJ

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I find K&n filter and AMSOIL full synthetic to work alot better than other oils. And the logevity of it is nice too.

If the mobil 1 is a synthetic oil do not go with a stock filter go with a synthetic filter

III

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Found some newer oil change pics from a member.. The fairings and oil filter seem challenging from the pics.. Anything else i should know..

I think I'm going with Mobil 1 4T and purolater or Suzuki OEM filter..

If it's your first time unbuttoning her, plan on giving yourself at least 2 hours. Follow the sticky for fairing removal in the GenII section and take your time. It'll get much quicker the more you do it. You should only need to take off the right side. I know it's obvious, but remember to take it off the stand and be on a level plane when filling it and checking it. Some people will add the oil with it on the stand, which messes up the reading, so then when they lower it, they've put too much in.

tmf2004

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I find K&n filter and AMSOIL full synthetic to work alot better than other oils. And the logevity of it is nice too.

Where can i pick up these products? Which website.. I used to run Amsoil in my mustang years ago.. Great stuff..

If the mobil 1 is a synthetic oil do not go with a stock filter go with a synthetic filter

If it's your first time unbuttoning her, plan on giving yourself at least 2 hours. Follow the sticky for fairing removal in the GenII section and take your time. It'll get much quicker the more you do it. You should only need to take off the right side. I know it's obvious, but remember to take it off the stand and be on a level plane when filling it and checking it. Some people will add the oil with it on the stand, which messes up the reading, so then when they lower it, they've put too much in.

Thank you for the tips.. :thumbsup:

OB_RSTRICK

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If the mobil 1 is a synthetic oil do not go with a stock filter go with a synthetic filter

Hey, this is something I had never thought about. Can you guys explain further?

RussellJ

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Just follow the owners manual and you cant go wrong! Have faith you wont screw it up :thumbsup:

OB_RSTRICK

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If the mobil 1 is a synthetic oil do not go with a stock filter go with a synthetic filter

Trying to keep the topic alive...This is something I have never thought of, looking for advice.

RussellJ

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Trying to keep the topic alive...This is something I have never thought of, looking for advice.

Just make sure the filter you buy is compatible with synthetic oil. Most of your high-end filters such as AMSOIL and K&N filters are compatible with synthetic oil.

tmf2004

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My Amsoil is arriving today via UPS and i still need a oil filter.. IS Fram a synthetic filter and does anyone have a part number.. Thanks

FRAM Extra Guard Oil Filter (PH)

3X Engine Protection

* Cellulose and Synthetic glass media provides 3X MORE engine protection than the average of leading economy oil filters.

BGPKR

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"DO NOT USE FRAM OIL FILTERS"

The internal structure of the filter is made from card board and will not withstand constant contact with petroleum and the amount of heat it's subjected to.

tmf2004

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"DO NOT USE FRAM OIL FILTERS"

The internal structure of the filter is made from card board and will not withstand constant contact with petroleum and the amount of heat it's subjected to.

Thanks Sir, I ordered a K&N but wanted to know what i could use that was readily available at the parts store..

Thanks :thumbsup:

tmf2004

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Today i finally got around to changing the oil.. It went pretty well.. I used a Torque wrench on the oil pan bolt but after a few passes i heard no clicks so i stopped.. I didn't want to risk stripping it.. Even though i threaded it straight and it felt like it was threading properly i didn't want to take a chance. I used foil on the pipes when changing the filter but managed to still get oil on the pipes. It was burning off as the bike was warming up..

All in all it went fairly well.. I leave for vacation next week and I'll attempt the coolant change when i get back.. :thumbsup:

Thanks to all the members who answered my PM's.. Appreciate the help..:bowdown:

Thanks again,

Tony

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fram part # 6018 I believe and I ran fram on my 2007 for 2 plus years and when they did my valve adjustment the mechanic did a leak down test and the bike showed 3% ware also using full Synthetic shell rotella diesel oil.....bought it new gone at 38xxx miles ran like a top. bobstheoilguy.com check it out

DevilDawg1

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fram part # 6018 I believe and I ran fram on my 2007 for 2 plus years and when they did my valve adjustment the mechanic did a leak down test and the bike showed 3% ware also using full Synthetic shell rotella diesel oil.....bought it new gone at 38xxx miles ran like a top. bobstheoilguy.com check it out



I like the oil guy website. It is very useful. You can find an oil analysis on just about any oil you look for on their.
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