Can u fix problems turning after lowering bike?

[smalltimer]

The bike turns like its twelve feet long turning at a stop light right or left, or pulling out of a parking lot.  I can't lean at any low speed, and not that low.  It just feels strange and I have no ideas.  The front forks are only a quarter inch out of the tree, and at the first hole on the lowering links.  So it can go lower.  Ive had the bike for awhile but I broke my arm and just now riding again.  Can the suspension be adjusted or is it another problem.  I will take any suggestions.
Thanks for any suggestions

Oh yea, anyone know a cheap way to clean a K&N air filter

 

[BusaWhipped]

I think you'll find most of the problem is from lowering the rear more than the front. That increases the trail, which makes the bike more stable and more difficult to turn in.

 

[smalltimer]

I was bettin money on the front. I used to be able to take both hands off the bars to adjust my jacket or helmet, but this bike turns which makes no sense. Would adjusting the shocks make a difference?

 

[In10SS]

+1 on the problem is the likely result of lowing the rear more than the front. I think in most cases you can lower 1" in the rear and 1.5 in the front without many issues as long as spring rates are correct and sag and damping are in the ball park.

 

[smalltimer]

+1 on the problem is the likely result of lowing the rear more than the front.  I think in most cases you can lower 1" in the rear and 1.5 in the front without many issues as long as spring rates are correct and sag and damping are in the ball park.

Makes sense enough, Ill lower the front and see how it goes. I never understood adjusting the front damping. Ill check out the shop manual to see how to adjust that after lowering the front. I need to find the mid point if the damping has been changed. Is there a table that tells you how much u should adjust or is it personal feeling and type of driving. It was setup by the original owner who was bigger by 50lbs or so if I remember right.

Thanks Whip and In10SS

Does anyone know off hand how much of the forks you should see above the tree after lowering the bike to both of holes in the lowering links.

 

[chevelle]

You have lowered the c.o.g. The lower the bike,the harder it is to turn. I had my bike lowered about 5/8'' in. f/r for the past few weeks (and + 1.5'') was really starting to get on my nerves,just put it back to stock r/h.

 

[smalltimer]

You have lowered the c.o.g. The lower the bike,the harder it is to turn. I had my bike lowered about 5/8'' in. f/r for the past few weeks (and + 1.5'') was really starting to get on my nerves,just put it back to stock r/h.

Ive driven another busa lowered and of course its different, but never like this. Its not lowered that much, and thats all I need after shaving the seat down. Not everyone had a tall, or normal family height. At 5'7", Im the tallest by far
thanks man

 

[Luvanicebum]

I never quite got the point of why people change the geometry of the bike after really smart engineers spent millions developing it that way.
There's are 2 reasons for stretching and lowering a bike:
1. Drag racing (Totally necessary)
2. Vanity/Posturing (Kinda like wearing your pants around your knees)


I have a friend that spent $20,000 on his Busa all in one shot. Totally stripped down, chromed everything, 10" swing-arm, big fat tire, custom paint, Big Bore kit....the whole 9.
First day he gets it back, 5 minutes down the road he drives it right into a lake.
He said, "I could NOT turn the bike".

Is it worth it? $20,000 so a couple people can go, "wow, that's nice".
I think the whole concept is far removed from being an actual riding enthusiast.

Sorry for the Thread Jack, but it's irritating how people seem amazed at the poor handling after messing up the bike.

 

[bigmac0331]

I never quite got the point of why people change the geometry of the bike after really smart engineers spent millions developing it that way.
There's are 2 reasons for stretching and lowering a bike:
1.  Drag racing (Totally necessary)
2.  Vanity/Posturing (Kinda like wearing your pants around your knees)


I have a friend that spent $20,000 on his Busa all in one shot.  Totally stripped down, chromed everything, 10" swing-arm, big fat tire, custom paint, Big Bore kit....the whole 9.
First day he gets it back, 5 minutes down the road he drives it right into a lake.
He said, "I could NOT turn the bike".

Is it worth it?   $20,000 so a couple people can go, "wow, that's nice".
I think the whole concept is far removed from being an actual riding enthusiast.

Sorry for the Thread Jack, but it's irritating how people seem amazed at the poor handling after messing up the bike.

Some ppl need to change that due to the fact that they are vertically challenged.....And whats wrong with some one wanting their bike to look a certain way? I had no problem with height when my bike was stock....but I like it better being lowered and I never have trouble at slow speeds making turns...."To each his own"

 

[smalltimer]

Mines not stretched and its not on the ground, the bike in that little picture to the left is mine and how it sits.  I am vertically challenged, 5'7" on a good day.  Its at the first notch, but I dont care if someone puts it on the ground and cruises the streets, just like I don't care if someone puts there car on the ground.  If I had the money, I might put some serious money in it.  I ride long distance though and like it comforable.

 

[99'busa]

I agree you should try a little lower in the frt. Let us know how it works out.

 

[chevelle]

I never quite got the point of why people change the geometry of the bike after really smart engineers spent millions developing it that way.
There's are 2 reasons for stretching and lowering a bike:
1. Drag racing (Totally necessary)
2. Vanity/Posturing (Kinda like wearing your pants around your knees)


I have a friend that spent $20,000 on his Busa all in one shot. Totally stripped down, chromed everything, 10" swing-arm, big fat tire, custom paint, Big Bore kit....the whole 9.
First day he gets it back, 5 minutes down the road he drives it right into a lake.
He said, "I could NOT turn the bike".

Is it worth it? $20,000 so a couple people can go, "wow, that's nice".
I think the whole concept is far removed from being an actual riding enthusiast.

Sorry for the Thread Jack, but it's irritating how people seem amazed at the poor handling after messing up the bike.

Kind of harsh,but i tend to agree. Stock r/h and w/b is as good as it gets,for handling.
With 2 stages of nitrous that is easier said then done.

Your friends bike is far removed from anyone that commented in this thread.

 

[BusaWhipped]

Some misconceptions here.

1) Lowering a bike doesn't change it's ability to handle, but will reduce its lean angle. Not lowering the front and rear equally will effect handling. Lowering the front more than the rear will improve handling, lowing the rear more than the front will worsen handling.

2) Stock is not as good as it gets. I'm an inch higher in the rear and 1/2 inch lower in the front. That's much better than stock. And ask someone who's installed a 600 swingarm on their Busa what they think about stock wheelbase.

 

[chevelle]

1)Lowering a bike does not change it's ability to handle....maybe in your world

2) Excuse me.

 

[In10SS]

Are we maybe getting a little off the topic? Within the context of smalltimer's problem, lowering the front will quicken the steering and restore a more agile feel to his bike that he lost when he lowered the rear more than the front on his first try. Lowering an inch front and rear from stock will not significantly change the feel of the bike, but he will ultimately lose some cornering clearance. A lower center of gravity is a good thing unless you have to give up needed cornering clearance or suspension travel to obtain it. If you're after improvements in handling (like me) raising the rear an inch quickens steering on our bikes with no detectable decrease in straight line stability, and adds a touch more cornering clearance. Shortening the wheelbase also helps but makes the bike noticably more wheely prone. Going up 2 teeth (or even 3) on the rear sprocket with stock chain link count sucks the wheel in close to half an inch. I personally run a 45 sprocket on the rear and 1" raising links and love it. The bike feels 70 lbs lighter although it's not as intuitive as my GSXR750

 

[smalltimer]

Are we maybe getting a little off the topic? Within the context of smalltimer's problem, lowering the front will quicken the steering and restore a more agile feel to his bike that he lost when he lowered the rear more than the front on his first try.  Lowering an inch front and rear from stock will not significantly change the feel of the bike, but he will ultimately lose some cornering clearance. A lower center of gravity is a good thing unless you have to give up needed cornering clearance or suspension travel to obtain it. If you're after improvements in handling (like me) raising the rear an inch quickens steering on our bikes with no detectable decrease in straight line stability, and adds a touch more cornering clearance.  Shortening the wheelbase also helps but makes the bike noticably more wheely prone.  Going up 2 teeth (or even 3) on the rear sprocket with stock chain link count sucks the wheel in close to half an inch. I personally run a 45 sprocket on the rear and 1" raising links and love it.  The bike feels 70 lbs lighter although it's not as intuitive as my GSXR750

lol, yea it was getting a little off but I liked to hear the opinions.  My blackbird had pretty much the same dimensions as a Busa and it felt lighter and smaller and it was suppose to be heavier.  This bike was stolen before I got to put any miles on it, and I had a metal plate put in my arm after it was recovered (in perfect condition too).  The way I ride, I like the Busa down a bit, more for my height but its more comfortable and I feel safer on it.  

I just realized he put the lowering tree on it, but didnt lower the front.  I just had the front clip off too taking off my HID and putting a delay timer on the stock headlght.  I need to install the alarm anyway to turn on the bike(not start) instead of a switch, and remove the old ignition that was destroyed when they stuck a bunch of crap in it.  Im going to drop it down 3/4 and that should make it ride like it should. Stock seat sucks.

I went on ebay to look at some pics of lowered bikes to see the forks and every bike seemed to be a 25k custom you cant drive.

 

[smalltimer]

Your going to hate me for this, but I checked the tire pressure and the needle didnt move on both wheels. I thought the gauge was broke. They had enough air to make them round. I thought I screwed up changing the wheels. Talk about a change, Im lucky I didnt drop it. I still plan to drop the front. I dont like the rear lower then the front, but them links give you stock, 2", or 4", and it still wasnt right when I first drove it.

 

[Luvanicebum]

Sorry, I started it...

Happy 4th everyone!! Have a ball!

 

[smalltimer]

Sorry, I started it...

Happy 4th everyone!!  Have a ball!    

Dont worry about it, if you feel that way then say it. Let me know if I start drilling holes in my helmet so I can smoke.

 

[HillbillyTom]

I used to be able to take both hands off the bars to adjust my jacket or helmet, but this bike turns which makes no sense.

This is what caught my eye. Hard to turn but turns on its own when you let go of the bar? Sounds like something out of kilter besides being lowered. Did you get this fixed too?