Anyone use PSR or Soupys lowering links?

[SS4Luck]

Okay, Ive posted this twice on facebook, and boomers just don't good time read.

I need adjustable lowering links, turnbuckle style, that start around 4.75" long. I basically need lowering links that are stock and go down from there.
I need to be able to put a degree or two back into my swingarm angle for anti squat/anti wheelie purposes on sticky roads.

Brocks are too long.
Adams are too long.

I have 5 hole ones already, and their shortest setting is just shy of too long at 125mm (4.9")

PSR and Soupy both make links that go from +1 to -1, or stock to -4. I just have never heard of anyone using them.

DME sells the shorter Adam's links, but they are still too long and need to be turned down (which is my back up plan)



Anyone got reviews lol

 

[wreckwriter]

Okay, Ive posted this twice on facebook, and boomers just don't good time read.

I need adjustable lowering links, turnbuckle style, that start around 4.75" long. I basically need lowering links that are stock and go down from there.
I need to be able to put a degree or two back into my swingarm angle for anti squat/anti wheelie purposes on sticky roads.

Brocks are too long.
Adams are too long.

I have 5 hole ones already, and their shortest setting is just shy of too long at 125mm (4.9")

PSR and Soupy both make links that go from +1 to -1, or stock to -4. I just have never heard of anyone using them.

DME sells the shorter Adam's links, but they are still too long and need to be turned down (which is my back up plan)



Anyone got reviews lol

I have Soupys, they're great.

 

[Dustin02]

I have them on my B-king. They're a little heavy, but won't break.

 

[pcs]

Hayabusa Fully Adjustable Lowering Links

Hayabusa fully adjustable lowering links... Made from 416 stainless steel body, black.ox coated and zinc plated ends for high corrosion resistance and good looks...They are high strength links that use the factory bolts..Not the wrong sized ones you will find with new bolts that fit sloppy...

saeoutlawperformance.com

 

[SS4Luck]

Hayabusa Fully Adjustable Lowering Links

Hayabusa fully adjustable lowering links... Made from 416 stainless steel body, black.ox coated and zinc plated ends for high corrosion resistance and good looks...They are high strength links that use the factory bolts..Not the wrong sized ones you will find with new bolts that fit sloppy...

saeoutlawperformance.com

Ordered.

I like that theyre stainless so i can cut them down more if i need to and not worry

 

[dcnblues]

This confuses me because it's counterintuitive, but you are clear that it's an inverse relationship: the shorter the link the more the rear will actually be raised.

I'm sure you know this and I'm just confused by the way you phrased it a few times.

 

[Fernando]

Great

 

[smithabusa]

have had soupys on my gen1 forever, like em a lot

 

[Spudley]

Soupy's

 

[InfiniteReality]

Ran into the same thing with Brock's, too long. I am running SAE ones currently.

On the same note with SAE.... I kept getting a slight metal and metal contact 1500k miles after doing everything to my bike. Been tracking it down last ~500 miles , knew it was minor, randomly would happen, not loud and more annoying than anything. I knew the mid pipe was slightly hit/rub them. I inspected closer this weekend, my stock dogbone bolts are slightly too long for the SAE links so they could slide over a mm. There was enough space to fit a cut washer, which is what I did to test since I couldn't get the nut to tighten any further without getting all weight off rear. Definitely was my issue, everything is solid. Not looking forward to fixing, just time, but at least I know now.

 

[SS4Luck]

This confuses me because it's counterintuitive, but you are clear that it's an inverse relationship: the shorter the link the more the rear will actually be raised.

I'm sure you know this and I'm just confused by the way you phrased it a few times.

Its a weird and pretty unique situation to be in for a street bike vs a dedicated race bike lol.
-My front forks are cut 2", and the alif perofmrnace triple tree lowered the front an additional 3/4"
I had roaring toys 5 hole lowering dog bones originally. With the stock shock and those dog bones I set ride height in the 4th hole, basically as low as they would go. When i ordered my Penske shock I took 1" of overall shock length and travel out.

My bike isn't about comfort so i don't need a bunch of travel, i need it stiff and to work when i put the power on. It just keeps everything aimed at performance and makes shock tuning much easier. Because I took everything out of the shock, the bike is actually lower in the 1st hole of the dog bones than it was in the lowest hole with the stock shock. I need lowering links to raise my bike from where it is, but because the shock works how it does, i need to be able to adjust swing arm angle easily on the fly so i need adjustable links. Most of the links on the market will adjust from 1-4" of lowering. I need something that is like 0-2" of lowering.

 

[SS4Luck]

This is my bike on thr stock shock on lowering hole 4 of 5 (basically as low as the links allow going down one more hole only dropped 1/4")

This is the Penske shock on hole 1 or the highest setting the links allowed

It's not as obvious from the angles. But I need to raise the pivot point of the swingarm about 1/2" more from here to have the swingarm angle I want when I'm under power for traction and anti wheelie geometry reasons.

 

[dcnblues]

Most of the links on the market will adjust from 1-4" of lowering. I need something that is like 0-2" of lowering.

Where are you measuring from? I don't think there is a standard place to make this measurement which gets confusing with extended tails Etc. With the soupies adjustable links, I shortened the links as much as possible while still being able to use the tightening nuts and measured from the bottom of my license plate on the stock rear tail unit, the bottom of the license plate is now 1 and 3/4 in higher than it used to be. And the bike handles like a 600 with no negatives that I'm aware of other than it'll be slightly harder to pull up into a wheelie. I could be wrong but I'm under the impression I could switch directions, max out the adjustable link's length, and drop the tail somewhere between an inch or two lower than stock. But they are heavy and I will switch to the solid Schnitz raising links in the near future.

 

[SS4Luck]

Where are you measuring from? I don't think there is a standard place to make this measurement which gets confusing with extended tails Etc. With the soupies adjustable links, I shortened the links as much as possible while still being able to use the tightening nuts and measured from the bottom of my license plate on the stock rear tail unit, the bottom of the license plate is now 1 and 3/4 in higher than it used to be. And the bike handles like a 600 with no negatives that I'm aware of other than it'll be slightly harder to pull up into a wheelie. I could be wrong but I'm under the impression I could switch directions, max out the adjustable link's length, and drop the tail somewhere between an inch or two lower than stock. But they are heavy and I will switch to the solid Schnitz raising links in the near future.

To be honest im going by the companies advertized lowering amount. The Roaring Toys links i have advertise 1-3" of drop, with 5 adjustment points between that 2" range. My soupys came in yesterday and Im going to throw them on tonight at their shortest possible adjustment which according to their website is stock ride height. Im also realizing there is a chance that I will have to swap out to a flat link sooner than I thought to keep suspension articulation where I want it. My shock already appears to be angle out more than id like it to be for the range of motion I will be working it in, and i think the shorter links will be nearly vertical by the time I get them adjusted to where I want them to be. These pictures arent at the best angles, but you can see the shorter the links get, the more severe the angle they ride at is, and from my understanding and research you want the shock as close to 90* as possible and the links to be as horizontal as possible to reduce suspension binding through the travel ark. My rear shock only has about 1.75" of travel at extreme end to end, so things don't move much but i need them to absolutely move as freely as they need to at speed and under power.

This is stock shock with the links used to get the lowered ride height.

This is the Penske shock with reduced stroke and shock length, using the same links in their highest setting.