Most stand alones have the ability to read knock sensors. However most tuners in the high performance area, myself included turn knock sensors off. On stockish and bolt on cars I'll leave them on, but anything that's built usually shut them off. Here's why.
Anything that's built pretty majorly usually has solid, or urethane motor mounts. Which means the engines more solidly mounted, and the sensors pick up more noise weather from the driveline, or more commonly noise from valves closing with hd springs, or lifter noise from cams with aggressive ramp rates. All that shock gets picked up by the knock sensors. You can adjust the sensitivity of the sensors in most stand alones, but usually by time you tune the gain down enough to not get noise, it's too low to even pick up actual knock.
Now on a bike, it's got 2 things going against it. It doesn't have knock sensors currently, so machine work would be involved to mount sensors in the ideal locations. And 2, the engine is extremely solid mounted in the frame. Toss in to the mix 10-11k revs and the sensors will get false knock readings all the time at high RPM.
The solution to that is to bring it to someone that knows how to tune. There's certain signs in a dyno graph, paired up with logging afrs that will let an experienced tuner know that it's probably detonating, and make adjustments accordingly. There's more to tuning then some tuners even know.
